Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello!

Anyone have try using Alclad crome in place of BMF. I do my firts BMF job and is really hard to have the small lines of crome moldings cover enough and even using a brand new Xacto is hard not to scracht the pain job.

Thanks in advance!

Posted

This is possible but the masking will replace the troubles you mention as the tough part. If you feel the masking is no problem, go for it!

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Roger makes good points but overstates the pitfalls of using Alclad in this particular application. But the biggest problem in either case is masking and trimming: If you can't do these things well, then you will arrive at unsatisfactory results.

These are done with Alclad:

DSCN1513.jpg

DSCN0767.jpg

DSCN2312.jpg

Posted

Curtis, where is the Porsche 911 kit above from. Who makes it? And what scale? There are very few Porsche 911 model kit with the pre 1974 small bumper set up.

Scott

Scott, that Porsche is the Fujimi Enthusiast kit in 1/24 scale. I think it is supposed to be a 1967.

Posted

Bought Alclad and was given some Alclad II. Did some tests, over enamel gloss black, and over other colors. I wouldn't use it on a model even if BMF didn't existed. It's fragile, hanling the model can and will damage the finish, not to mention that a coat of wax will ruin it.

When I'm out of BMF, I just use household aluminum foil and white glue. Same result, a little more work.

Gave away the two bottles of Alclad I had. I think by now the guy I gave them to already trashed them, or gave them to yet another victim.

Like Mr Spock would say, the logic is very simple: Foil is metal, what you are trying to replicate is metal.

Posted

BMF takes a lot of practice. My first attempt was so bad that I did not touch that stuff for along time. After reading a lot of BMF posts I got back into it. Each car that I do is better than the last one. Don't give up

Good luck.

Posted

Bought Alclad and was given some Alclad II. Did some tests, over enamel gloss black, and over other colors. I wouldn't use it on a model even if BMF didn't existed. It's fragile, hanling the model can and will damage the finish, not to mention that a coat of wax will ruin it.

When I'm out of BMF, I just use household aluminum foil and white glue. Same result, a little more work.

Like Mr Spock would say, the logic is very simple: Foil is metal, what you are trying to replicate is metal.

I will take issue with several points you make because I think you are unnecessarily absolutist and perhaps misleading.

Alclad (chrome and polished aluminum) are NOT fragile. If that is the result one gets, then one is doing something wrong! It is an incredibly durable finish that withstands all the manhandling I've dished out to parts I've painted with Alclad. Moreover, I think your assertion that "a coat of wax will ruin it" may be true but really just raises the question, "Why would anyone try to wax Alclad?"

And, lastly, your so-called simple logic is neither. We work on models that create the illusion, more or less accurately, of reproduction in miniature but we don't replicate all the processes and materials used in making automobiles. Cars have glass for windows but very few modelers attempt to use glass in scale.

That being said, a modeler really should try to become adept at using BMF. It is well worth the effort.

Posted

I will take issue with several points you make because I think you are unnecessarily absolutist and perhaps misleading.

Alclad (chrome and polished aluminum) are NOT fragile. If that is the result one gets, then one is doing something wrong! It is an incredibly durable finish that withstands all the manhandling I've dished out to parts I've painted with Alclad. Moreover, I think your assertion that "a coat of wax will ruin it" may be true but really just raises the question, "Why would anyone try to wax Alclad?"

And, lastly, your so-called simple logic is neither. We work on models that create the illusion, more or less accurately, of reproduction in miniature but we don't replicate all the processes and materials used in making automobiles. Cars have glass for windows but very few modelers attempt to use glass in scale.

That being said, a modeler really should try to become adept at using BMF. It is well worth the effort.

Yes, Alclad is good if the model is going to sit inside a transparent casing for all it's life.

I said and say it again, dealing with the model, having it on hand, and cleaning it,even with a microfiber rag, will damage the Alclad finish after a couple of times. The only way to protect it, is to clear coat it with some acrylic clear, and that will make the shine to go down a lot.

I use to wax my models with car wax once in a while, to protect them from the shelf dust, and it's impossible to avoid all the trim while doing it. A simple little drop of wax WILL remove all the shine from the Alclad where it gets, and the paint will turn gray, just like with some handling.

Maybe my Alclad was "bad", but I don't think so.

And yes, I try to use the more "real" materials as I can on my builds, including automotive paint on most of them instead of modeling paint. Why will I paint chrome when I can easily apply real metal foil??? No masking, no black painting before, and I even get a surface I can actually polish to get even more shine, what can't be done with Alclad.

Another thing I do is to clear coat the kit chrome while still on the trees, so it's shine will be preserved for the same time as the foil.

Posted

Thanks for all the coments! I think this is an really good teme of discusion! I'll try to whit crome paint to see the efects, and practice whit BMF, lets see whats happen.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...