paint removal

[90lowboy]

I need suggestions on how to remove lacquer

paint from plastic car model. thanks

[my80malibu]

Castrol super clean works,or rubbing alcohol.

[Miatatom]

Denatured alcohol. It's the only thing I've found that will work on Tamiya lacquers.

[booboo60]

Thats best what thy said, or sandpaper, and elbow grease

[Uliusmc]

Dot 3 cheap brake fluid

[Mike Kucaba]

Are you confused yet! Here's another Dawn power disolver (not the dish soap,it's oven cleaner).

[Lovefordgalaxie]

Here is what I use:

Three parts water and one part pure acetone:

1957 Ford Custom Kustom by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr

Got that from Bill Sorsby, a long time master modeler. Works like a charm!!!

[Art Anderson]

Denatured alcohol. It's the only thing I've found that will work on Tamiya lacquers.

I'd be careful about that term "denatured alcohol", as technically, that means Methyl (or so-called "wood alcohol") alcohol, which will destroy polystyrene and ABS. Don't you really mean "Isopropyl Alcohol", which is ordinary rubbing alcohol, which can now be had in concentrations of 90% and higher? That will not damage polystyrene.

Art

[Art Anderson]

Dot 3 cheap brake fluid

Ditto! While DOT-3 brake fluid can be messy to dispose of, it does strip almost all paints off of styrene.

Art

[Miatatom]

I'd be careful about that term "denatured alcohol", as technically, that means Methyl (or so-called "wood alcohol") alcohol, which will destroy polystyrene and ABS. Don't you really mean "Isopropyl Alcohol", which is ordinary rubbing alcohol, which can now be had in concentrations of 90% and higher? That will not damage polystyrene.

Art

Nope, I'm talking about denatured alcohol. I saw that tip here on the forum. Do a search for denatured alcohol in the Model Building Q & A. Got a gallon at WM and it works better than anything I've tried so far. Didn't destroy anything. I'm going to give the water and acetone mixture a shot too. Here's a pic of the stuff I'm using now.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/baddogracing/media/Model%20Car%20Photos/DSC_4273_zps7930f330.jpg.html

[Art Anderson]

Nope, I'm talking about denatured alcohol. I saw that tip here on the forum. Do a search for denatured alcohol in the Model Building Q & A. Got a gallon at WM and it works better than anything I've tried so far. Didn't destroy anything. I'm going to give the water and acetone mixture a shot too. Here's a pic of the stuff I'm using now.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/baddogracing/media/Model%20Car%20Photos/DSC_4273_zps7930f330.jpg.html

I based my comment on what I've always known as "denatured alcohol", which must contain, by US law, at least 10% non-drinkable alcohol or wood naptha, plus an ingredient which makes it very bitter if tasted. If it contains a poisonous alcohol, chances are that's methyl alcohol (AKA methanol) which can soften styrene. I guess the best advice would be to check the ingredients on the can just to be sure (or Google the brand for the MSDS sheet.

(Methanol used to be the most common of paint removers, was mixed with paraffin wax for a slightly "pasty" texture". You just brushed it on a painted surface, watched the paint wrinkle up, and then scrape the mess off with a putty knife. I tried that once on a model car body as a teenager--it ruined the body shell in a heartbeat.)

Art

[Art Anderson]

Denatured alcohol. It's the only thing I've found that will work on Tamiya lacquers.

91% Isopropyl alchohol (nearly pure rubbing alcohol) will liquify Tamiya lacquers, in my experience.

Art

[Miatatom]

Art, I'll take a look at the contents and see what's in the brew.