Epoxy application

[Cato]

In spite of building a 1/8 scale model, I find myself joining many tiny detail parts. Like 1mm nuts and wires less than .030". CA is not really effective on some because most of it is dissimilar brass / solder / styrene joining and needs to be durable.

So I use 5 minute epoxy. Can't use longer because I often can not clamp or prop the awkward parts for 15 minutes or more.

My problem is mixing very small amounts. My method is to mix with a tee-pin and apply with a narrow scrap of PE I attached a wood handle. Then try to get a dot of epoxy where I need it.This is less precise than I need.

Any of you care to share your methods?

[Ace-Garageguy]

Have you tried the "toughened" Loctite CA? Between that and drilling / pinning small parts, I've had very good results so far.

[High octane]

I use Devcon 5 Minute Epoxy all the time as it has a strong bond and dries clear. I put some resin on a piece of cardboard and then the same amount of hardener and mix it thoroughly with a toothpick. I then use the toothpick or a straight pin to apply where needed. Sure there is a LOT of waste with epoxy, but it works with all kinds of materials.

[southpier]

I always try to place cement on the female part of the joint. that way, any excess is pushed into the assemble rather than squished out.

[Cato]

Thanks guys-good tips all and I've already been doing most of that. I always pin when I can, glue on female side and apply with tiny applicators.

Bill, I just picked up that gel to try.

[Mike Kucaba]

Here's another, Sets in 90 seconds

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/GovernmentSolutions/Home/ProductInformation/ProductCatalog/~/3M-Adhesives?N=3293949079&rt=d

[Cato]

Here's another, Sets in 90 seconds

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/GovernmentSolutions/Home/ProductInformation/ProductCatalog/~/3M-Adhesives?N=3293949079&rt=d

Hard to argue with 3M anything. Thanks Mike.

[Cato]

I'm liking the Loctite that Bill recommended. It handles very well; pin point application, nice dry time and plenty strong.

[John Pol]

been trying to locate the loctite super glue and had not much luck finding it

[Ace-Garageguy]

Glad it's working for you.

It also works well for edge-filling on close-fit panels, makes nice fillets on roll cages, and lasts much longer in the bottle than just about any other CA I've used.

It doesn't glue the cap to itself, either.

Edited July 30, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy

[Ace-Garageguy]

been trying to locate the loctite super glue and had not much luck finding it

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1363589-4-Gram-Control-Adhesive/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=sr_1_1/177-2171191-1067956?ie=UTF8&qid=1406761349&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite+gel+control

[Cato]

I got it at my local True Value Hardware in Long Island.

Yes the cap stays very neat and you can precisely meter a drop where you want it.

Good stuff so far. Will try with microballons when I need some shallow filling.

[vypurr59]

Home Depot just started carrying the Loctite Super glue

[Ace-Garageguy]

Home Depot just started carrying the Loctite Super glue

They make several. Just be sure you get the right one.

[Art Anderson]

I've felt like the "odd-ball" for years, given that I've been using gap-filling CA glues for most of my assembly work, and for filling shallow areas for almost 30 years now, ever since the gap-filling CA glues became available (IIRC, that was in either 1985 or 1986). About the same time, I discovered CA glue accelerators, liquids that will "kick" CA to solidify virtually instantly.

I've used, at some time or another, just about every gap-filling brand of CA that's out there, including the Loctite once, in a pinch, but prefer SuperJet from Goldberg Models (part of the Hobbico/Tower Hobbies/Great Planes company) for one simple reason: The ready availability of fine-tip applicator nozzle extensions that are available to fit the Goldberg bottles: Bob Smith Industries BSI-1302. I've found that many hobby shops having a well-stocked RC department sell Goldberg Jet-series CA glue, and the BSI applicator tip extensions. If not, Tower Hobbies stocks both these items, at prices, with shipping (USPS) that are about the same as hobby shops carry them--of course, by mail there is a bit of a lead time, but whenever I've ordered this stuff from Tower, it's taken only 2-3 days (Champaign IL, their location, is about 100 miles or so from me--but shipping farther distances doesn't add a terrible time lag--just plan a ahead.

As for getting CA to adhere well, especially to brass wire or rod stock inserted into any sort of drilled hole--"roughing" up the surface helps immeasureably--I use a folded piece of used 400-grit for that. It doesn't take but very little pressure--not enough to bend or kink fine K&S brass rod stock, just enough to put a few minute scratches across the surface. Believe me, that allows CA to "grab" the wire and hold it more than securely enough to keep it in place.

I do use the stuff for filling gaps between parts that otherwise don't fit tightly, unused locating holes, even the depressions left from "ejector pins" even after sanding away the high spots that often accompany them. I've used Micro-balloons with CA, but anymore, I don't bother unless the area to be filled is fairly deep, as straight CA I've found, files and block-sands pretty easily--it's only slightly harder than the surrounding styrene, and once sanded smooth and painted over, is about as good as good gets--invisible once painted and finished.

Art

[Cato]

I agree and do about everything you said. But there are some times when a join just requires epoxy to 'sleep well' about it.

This new Loctite that Bill recommended comes very close to epoxy as a gel CA. I've been using it for two days now and it's acting very well.

I used Super Jet and Zap since the 80's on R/C quarter scale aircraft.