Foil under clear *rant*

[Tom Geiger]

Spray lubricants of any type just don't get used in that area but I have has far too many issues with WD-40 to even allow a can of it in the room.

Another thing I don't allow in the model room is flocking! I keep it separate and when I need to flock something, I do that downstairs, last time out on the deck! That stuff flies everywhere, and is attracted by static charge! I see models at shows with flocking and it's all clinging to the inside of the kit glass. I keep mine far away from the model room, and use hair spray on my finished work to keep it in place... I did that on the seat covers of the Chevette I recently finished

[Mike_G]

I keep reading about the "dipped in syrup look".

How much clear do you guys put on?

David G.

I put on just enough that I can wetsand it flat and smooth without sanding through it. That avoids the syrupy look, and makes the paint look more "scale".

[StevenGuthmiller]

Another thing I don't allow in the model room is flocking! I keep it separate and when I need to flock something, I do that downstairs, last time out on the deck! That stuff flies everywhere, and is attracted by static charge! I see models at shows with flocking and it's all clinging to the inside of the kit glass. I keep mine far away from the model room, and use hair spray on my finished work to keep it in place... I did that on the seat covers of the Chevette I recently finished

That makes sense too Tom. Luckily, I've never really gotten into the flocking thing. But I do have a couple of projects on the horizon that I may try it on. I'll take your suggestion to heart. Steve

[Tom Geiger]

That makes sense too Tom. Luckily, I've never really gotten into the flocking thing. But I do have a couple of projects on the horizon that I may try it on. I'll take your suggestion to heart. Steve

Thanks Steve. I'm looking to try the embossing powder technique to get carpet texture. I want to see how easy it is to work and how it looks. One of my concerns is that embossing powder is supposed to be melted with heat to expand for the final result in embossing. I'm hoping that never happens on one of my models... anyone know how stable the stuff will be?

One of the reasons I'm looking at this is to do away with flocking.

[Tom Geiger]

I keep reading about the "dipped in syrup look".

How much clear do you guys put on?

David G.

Who me? I don't think I'm qualified to answer your question.

[StevenGuthmiller]

You won't like flocking. Unless you're building a '70s van and going for a shag carpet look. Embossing powder is better scaled. Baking soda is better than either IMO. It's the closest to scale and I can paint it whatever color I want.

I've heard of the baking soda thing but have never tried it. Do you apply it the same as flocking? Steve

[StevenGuthmiller]

Who me? I don't think I'm qualified to answer your question.

Snow tires on a Vette....I love it!! Steve

[Guest]

I've heard of the baking soda thing but have never tried it. Do you apply it the same as flocking? Steve

Yeah, it's pretty much the same process. I always use Elmers glue thinned approximately 1:1 with water. The trick is to tap the interior tub or floor pan until no more soda comes off. You want to be able to see through it. When it's dried for a day or so, I spray a coat of Plasti Kote primer over it to seal it. Then spray the color and dull coat if needed. Always use lacquer. Never enamel. The soda will absorb the enamel over a period of time. I learned that lesson with my first attempt. Here's an example....

This is a bad photo as that isn't the true color of the interior (Artesian Turquoise) and the floor doesn't have a shine like it looks like it has. I obviously had the wrong lighting and had it too close. But, it's the best one I have that shows most of the floor pan. What I like most about the soda method is the fine texture and very minimal buildup it has. You can see how thin it is along the edges on the door panels, foot rest pad and console. I've done several with the only fail being the first one that I sprayed enamel on. The rest have held up very well over time.

[Tom Geiger]

I've heard of the baking soda thing but have never tried it. Do you apply it the same as flocking? Steve

I'd be careful with baking soda since it has a high salt content and will absorb humidity from the air. Early on I was told to use it for rust, but later I saw BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH spots on the models in my case during the heat of summer.

Roger, have you had any issues with that?

That's why I was looking to try the embossing powder. Hopefully an inert product that won't cause problems. That's why I asked the heat question... since it's designed to be heated up to melt and expand, would it do so on it's own?