Not trying to be stupid, but..

[addicted2modeling]

Ok I know you guys must be getting pissed off as much as I am on this project, but I guarantee you I did everything according to proper protocol. I washed the bed in dish washing soap, let it dry over night, sand it off with 600 grit sandpaper, primer it with Duplicolor Gray primer, one LMC, then one heavy coat. I did 3 LMC with the Victory Red paint and 2 HC in good under 65% humidity level at temperature below 90F..I noticed the nasty orange peel on the first heavy coat so I wet sand it down with a 480 grit sandpaper and then paint it again, but the paint comes out flat and pinkish..Is there something I am doing wrong? I shook up the can one full minute, spray a couple of test sprays before shooting on on the model. Should I just deal with it? FYI the paint is brand new, I bought it yesterday.

[High octane]

Hmmmm, first off I ONLY use gray primer under silver and black color coats. Did you by chance warm the spray can in warm water before shooting each coat? Maybe you just got a bad can of paint? Is it model paint or cheap tall can paint?

[addicted2modeling]

No, I just used the regular Dupli Color Victory Red paint just like this one here. and no, I didn't warm the can.

Edited October 11, 2014 by addicted2modeling

[addicted2modeling]

SO i did a polishing by sanding discs and not much improvement. I used a 600 grit sandpaper and then use the multi step fine grit sanding discs from the Turtle headlight restoration kit to do the job but not much improvement was noticed. Hmm, should I restart all over again?

[slusher]

Honestly I would strip it and paint it with, Tamiya, Testors, or Kylon paints. I don't care for Dupli-color paint now. I used a can not to long ago and it was not to my liking..

[jbwelda]

try Tamiya Mica Red for a metallic or Italian red for a solid. if what you have on the body is smooth. you might be able to use it as a base coat. then use some Tamiya clear red for an overcoat if you want a deep candy effect.

jb

[addicted2modeling]

But unfortunately, theres only ONE brand that uses that OEM GM victory red color and that's Dupli Color. Since, I have a preference for all original, I would probably sand it down without water, paint it with some light mist coats and then give it a heavy coat. But this time I will warm up the can in warm water, hopefully that will give it a good paint flow.

[Guest]

That paint won't have any shine straight out of the can. It's a two part system. Meaning you spray the color (in your case,red), then you spray the clear coat over it. That's when you'll get the shine you're after. You can also polish the clear if needed/wanted. DO NOT use 600 grit on paint! Use 600 before primer. 2000 -4000 grit at the most on paint before clear.

If your paint is thick enough, you can save it.

First, sand it with 4000 grit lightly. If you burn through, don't worry about it.

If you burn through, spray another good coat of paint over it, allow it to dry a day and then spray 2-3 coats of clear over it.

If, you don't burn through the paint, simply spray 2-3 coats of clear over it.

Once your clear is dry, then you can polish on it if needed.

Pitch that head light restoration kit or use it on the head lights on your car or truck. It's too rough to polish paint with.

Get yourself a polishing kit. It has grits that start with 3200. Then goes to 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000 and 12000.

Get yourself a can or bottle of polishing compound. I like the New Finish. I follow that with a coat of Meguier's wax.

Lastly, get that tape off of there! Never never leave tape on for extended amounts of time! Pull it off as soon as you're done spraying your second color. Lacquer dries quickly. And guess what happens when it dries to your tape? Since your paint is already dry, run your Xacto blade along the edge of the tape very lightly before you pull it off.

[Mackvision]

One thing that may have been overlooked,in my opinion anway,how far away are you spraying the paint from in relation to the body? sometimes when you're too far away the paint will actually start to dry in the air and produce a "flat" effect like this. Personally I don't ever polish paint,and get a uniform coat starting with light "mist" coats,then one to two "heavy" topcoats. and rarely use any clear............................Mark

[MsDano85gt]

No, I just used the regular Dupli Color Victory Red paint just like this one here. and no, I didn't warm the can.

i used this type of paint had the same problems weather i primed prior to paint or no primer........ All i did to render / fix the dull opaque look was spray some testors wet look clear cote over top and the paint shined right up! I felt no need for polishing as i was happy with results, I would just spray your clear on a small section or part of the body like bottom of a quarter panel as a test shot before wasting clear on the whole model......

Hope this helps......

Edited October 12, 2014 by MsDano85gt

[addicted2modeling]

That paint won't have any shine straight out of the can. It's a two part system. Meaning you spray the color (in your case,red), then you spray the clear coat over it. That's when you'll get the shine you're after. You can also polish the clear if needed/wanted. DO NOT use 600 grit on paint! Use 600 before primer. 2000 -4000 grit at the most on paint before clear.

If your paint is thick enough, you can save it.

First, sand it with 4000 grit lightly. If you burn through, don't worry about it.

If you burn through, spray another good coat of paint over it, allow it to dry a day and then spray 2-3 coats of clear over it.

If, you don't burn through the paint, simply spray 2-3 coats of clear over it.

Once your clear is dry, then you can polish on it if needed.

Pitch that head light restoration kit or use it on the head lights on your car or truck. It's too rough to polish paint with.

Get yourself a polishing kit. It has grits that start with 3200. Then goes to 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000 and 12000.

Get yourself a can or bottle of polishing compound. I like the New Finish. I follow that with a coat of Meguier's wax.

Lastly, get that tape off of there! Never never leave tape on for extended amounts of time! Pull it off as soon as you're done spraying your second color. Lacquer dries quickly. And guess what happens when it dries to your tape? Since your paint is already dry, run your Xacto blade along the edge of the tape very lightly before you pull it off.

So it's ok to use a 2000 then 4,000 grit on the basecoat? What grit should be used for sanding the primer if needed?

[scale trucker]

read the can some of those are basecoats and need to be cleared

[chunkypeanutbutter]

Model Master Italian Red may or may not be cheaper than Tamiya's.

I shot one coat of it on a Porsche and it came out beautifully shiny, even where I sprayed it in the basement.

[Ace-Garageguy]

TEST on a SPARE body and develop your procedures BEFORE you paint the model you care about.

Once you learn how to shoot paint, you should be able to lay down a very smooth coat with almost no orange peel whatsoever. It takes practice.

Also READ and UNDERSTAND the directions. If it IS a basecoat / clearcoat product, you will NOT get any decent gloss until it's cleared. There are metallic paints that are BASECOATS that HAVE TO BE CLEARED, and there are metallic paints that ARE NOT BASECOATS, and they MAY be cleared.

If it IS a basecoat / clearcoat product with metallic sparklies in it, you DO NOT want to sand the basecoat AT ALL. That's why you need to learn how to shoot a smooth basecoat. If you get a grainy, orange-peeled metallic basecoat, you CAN sand it smooth with something fine like 1500 grit and then shoot another coat over it all. SOME solid color (non-metallic) basecoats will look fine if you sand them before clearing. SOME WILL LOOK LIKE CRAPP. TEST FIRST.

You can SOMETIMES get away with sanding metallics that ARE NOT BASECOATS (ones that are only single-stage), but NOT ALWAYS.

TEST FIRST.

Edited October 17, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy