Paint questions - which paints can go over which paints?

[Chris D]

Hello all,

After a bit of reading and searching, I think I am more confused than I ever was about this subject. Years back it was a bit more simple with just lacquer and enamel, however, there are a bunch of new paints that I am unfamiliar with.

My concern is which paints can be applied over which without worrying that the top coat will wrinkle the bottom coat.

In the "simple" days, your base coat could be lacquer and you could top coat with enamel. However, if your base was enamel and you topped with lacquer, the paint would wrinkle.

Currently, my main go to paint is Tamiya acrylics. I am expanding my horizons by also using model master acrylics, enamels, lacquers, etc. The inevitable will happen that I will top coat over something with the wrong paint and ruin something so I ask, what paints can be sprayed or brushed over the others?

I suspect there isn't a clear cut rule anymore, but any advice would be helpful.

Chris D

[Snake45]

I've used quite a few of the Testor/Model Master lacquers now over enamels of various kinds with no problems at all as long as the enamel is dry. The stuff seems to be very mild.

Haven't used that many Tamiyas so far but what I have used, same story.

I've discovered that some Krylon, Walmart, and Rustoleum paints that say "fast drying enamel" on the label are actually lacquers, and some of them are pretty hot, too.

When in doubt, there's no substitute for testing, preferably on the plastic from that very model. I like to use the undersides of interior tubs and the topsides of chassis--places that won't show--for this.

I've found that testing on plastic spoons doesn't always work. I've had paints (some Krylons) that laid on the spoons beautifully, but would eat kit styrene.

Edited October 21, 2014 by Snake45

[Ace-Garageguy]

"When in doubt, there's no substitute for testing, preferably on the plastic from that very model. I like to use the undersides of interior tubs and the topsides of chassis--places that won't show--for this."

Exactly.

[1972coronet]

I've had the best luck with Tamiya "TS" colour coats topped with Testors enamel aerosol gloss .

No tedious colour sanding , buffing , etc. , either ! The enamel clear just "lays" on top of the excellent Tamiya colour coats.

[bobthehobbyguy]

I have never been acbig fan of mixing different brands of paint with the exception of using lacpuer primer under enamel.

One risk is the wrinkling however another risk can be cracking if one dries faster than the other or the heat expansion is different. These may not happen immediately.

Another issue is trapping solvents when you shoot different types of paints over each other.

Just my thoughts on the subject.

[Mike Kucaba]

I still prefer testing on a plastic spoon. That idea of the bottoms or backs sides of parts from the same kit is great too. Another technique is actually dipping a piece of the sprue from the same kit in the paint your using. If it passes that acid test I wouldn't worry.

[Guest]

It's pretty much the same Chris. Just make sure you always use a good lacquer primer like Plasti Kote (my preferred), Dupli Color or others. Tamiya has a really good primer. It's a little expensive. If you use anything outside of Tamiya, Model Masters or Testors, make sure you read the can! I learned the hard way that the fast drying Krylon paints have a recoat window of before four hours or after twenty four. Anything in between, expect disaster! Like Mike mentioned, when in doubt, test first.