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Which is best AMT or Revell gen 5 camaro


jaftygas

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If you want to just model what you're doing to the body and stance, I'd use the AMT kit, but if you want to to include under hood details then your only option would be the Revell version, but the Revell does have an aero kit (front, side, and rear) that you could use for a start to build from for some body mods.

Edited by horsepower
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Have a look and see whatcha think, Joe:

IMGP1784-vi.jpg

This is AMT's. My sample was a huuuuuuge PIA in terms of getting wheel bosses and brake rotor pieces to coexist - but after that, I came away with the impression that it catches a few subtleties that this one does not:

IMGP1717-vi.jpg

Here's Revell's and you're catching it from the good side. Far more detailed, goes together without major problems; but lookit what you get for stance o o b:

IMGP1703-vi.jpg

Once you've been through all the grinding necessary to force the wheels on, AMT takes a better set, with more convincing tire profiles to boot:

IMGP1701-vi.jpg

I think the rear view tells a story too. Check the rear edge of the 1:1 decklid, and you'll see it's pinched and contoured -

IMGP1710-vi.jpg

More like AMT's and less like the broader slab just under Revell's spoiler.

AMT's hood comes separate and the vinyl bits paint up just fine with Tamiya TS. But it's still going to be a serious undertaking to stiuff the AMT shell with Revell guts.

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Got my '06 Concept a bit deep in the stash to make a direct comparison this quickly, but my guess would be the Revell production car chassis would fit in sooner. Because AMT's was designed from the start not to have a bunch of detail between body and chassis, particularly up front, it's got a fairly comprehensive system of locators, pins, and bosses molded directly to the body shell underneath.

Not only would these need to be removed to clear the Revell parts or probably even the AMT Concept, they also have implications for "ghost" marks on the body shell; AMT has separate front and rear fascias, and you need guide coats of primer and a fair amount of prep to find and fill all the subtle sinks. Because Revell integrates everything into one basic piece with a smooth underside, it's cleaner and needs less prep; it's mostly the hood's undersurface detail causing some ghosting on the outer surface.

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I liked the body of the AMT version better, I did assemble the body completely first,then cut down the locator pins on the chassis,and trimmed the very front portion of the chassis away, this allows you to put the chassis into the completed body and the front portion of the chassis you have to trim off isn't visible after assembly anyway. Doing this allows you to get everything fitting perfectly on the body before starting any paint work, I also sanded the edges of the hood to open up the gaps to appear more to scale, to get them just what I wanted I took 400 sandpaper folded in half and put it into the hood to fender gap to make it exactly the same the entire way around the hood. I blocked the body down with 800 paper, then 1000 before priming to avoid to much primer filling in details. I got lucky and scored some water based Synergy Green from a friend who is a painter at a local body shop to apply to my ZL-1 when it's ready for paint. I'll do a clear coat of automotive Omni brand urethane clear for the final finish.

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