Help! AMT 25 Ford rear end

[pharoah]

I don't get this. Is this how the rear end fastens to the leaf springs? I placed the engine in the frame,and the whole rear end assembly has to go back about 1/4" and of course the rear radius rods are too far forward. Any ideas?

[High octane]

Maybe your spring needs to be turned around 180 degrees and it should fit perfectly? Try it.

[Ace-Garageguy]

The flattened ends of the spring go in the slots formed by the little ears on the hubs. I can't be absolutely certain, but it looks as though your spring isn't all the way in the slot. That will account for most of your alignment problem.

There's no fore-aft curvature of the spring, but there IS a slight wedge-shape to the ends of the spring that makes it fit in the ear-slots better one way than the other.

The ends of the spring should be all the way forward in the ear slots.

I have this kit here and just looked at it carefully. The front axle has to be positioned very accurately as well, to allow the holes in the wishbone brackets to properly align with the pins on the front ends of the rear wishbones.

Edited December 27, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy

[southpier]

not sure what version you're building, but maybe there's something here that can help: http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/amt-instructions/automotive-cars--pi/ford/1921-1930/

[pharoah]

thanks guys. It's the latest version of the chopped coupe double T kit.

The instructions are a little vague. I took it apart,and I'll try to fix those slots.

[Snake45]

I just rebuilt one of those frames from an old glue bomb and I feel your pain. Took me quite a bit of superglue but I finally got it all together, more or less. I think working with a cherry kit would be much easier, now that I know how everything is supposed to fit. The whole design/engineering is actually quite clever, if a bit fidgety.

Here's my build thread. Some of the photos might or might not be of any help.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=93734

[pharoah]

Thanks Snake!

I took it all apart and filed those little slots and the ends of the spring. It looks like it will work better now. This kit has been around since the early 60's , so the technology isn't the best. The suspension fit is a little 'iffy' at best.

I'm building a replica of the gold chopped coupe on the box.

[unclescott58]

Interesting. I built the Tall Double-T kit and found no problems assembling the rear end what so ever. It's my understanding both kits are exactly the same, other than the "tall" vs "chopped" bodies.

Scott

[Ace-Garageguy]

I have an original issue that's complete, but most of the parts are off the trees. I did a mockup assembly of it last night and it went together perfectly.

I also have several later issues. I'll compare the parts in those to the originals and see if I can determine if there have been any register shifts between the tool elements.

The only readily apparent difference in the chrome trees (where the suspension parts are found) between the original issue and the later ones (that I've identified so far) is that the original has "moon" caps, while later issues have mag wheels,

I've already compared the 2001 Racing Champion / Ertl T-bucket version, which includes the same chrome tree as the chopped and "tall" coupes, and the parts in question are absolutely identical.

Edited December 28, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy

[pharoah]

after a little work,it seems to go together better.

Yes,the newest chopped coupe reissue has moon discs,and the 'steel' wheels are chromed. No mag wheels.

[62rebel]

don't the T rear springs locate on top of the axle tube, into slots on the backing plates? not behind them, as on later Fords.

[Ace-Garageguy]

don't the T rear springs locate on top of the axle tube, into slots on the backing plates? not behind them, as on later Fords.

In general, yes, stock T springs are on top of the rear axle.

However, there are 2 complete chassis in this particular kit, with 2 complete sets of running gear. Neither is particularly correct as to how a 1:1 is set up, but the hot-rod version he's building has the spring ends going into little slots to the rear of the backing plates...a setup that would not work at all on a real car, as there is no provision for shackles (which the free ends of leaf springs HAVE to have, no matter where they're attached).

Edited December 29, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy