Roadrunner Posted January 27, 2015 Posted January 27, 2015 Man you are right about that. You'll hear a hundred different ways but in the end you'll develop your own techniques and styles that work best for you. Very true.
atomicholiday Posted February 1, 2015 Author Posted February 1, 2015 Here's the completed cockpit. Let me know what you think.
Snake45 Posted February 2, 2015 Posted February 2, 2015 Looks fine to me--very similar to what I'd do with it myself. Real Model Airplane Guys will have conniptions over your lack of seat belts. Seat Belt Fetishim is quite common in Model Airplane World, for some reason, even to the extent that they have a specific exception in the Out-Of-The-Box rules to let you add seat belts. I am NOT one of Those People, and laugh at their weird fetish, and happily build model airplanes without seat belts all the time. Model on!
mustang1989 Posted February 2, 2015 Posted February 2, 2015 (edited) You're doin' great Jeremy! That's a good level of detail in there! On a side note:(and this is in full support of what Richard is saying) Anybody who has a conniption fit over something you're doing or not doing to your builds are commonly referred to as "jerks" and jerks are everywhere. It's your build and anybody who doesn't respect that can fly a kite. Advice and constructive criticism are welcome things but opinionated, intrusive and offensive comments are not. You'll know it when you see it and unfortunately , you will. There are, however, more good folks than there are idiots thankfully. Rock on brutha! Edited February 15, 2015 by mustang1989
atomicholiday Posted February 2, 2015 Author Posted February 2, 2015 Thanks guys! I have to say, this project has been pretty fun and educational for me so far. And you guys have been a big help there. Much appreciated! I'm gonna need to spend some time experimenting with the wash. I picked up a few bottles of Testors CreateFX acrylic black wash at Hobby Lobby on clearance for about a buck a piece. If you try to wipe it too early, it seems to take all of it off and it you wait too long it won't come off with water. I didn't want to try anything stronger because I didn't want to remove the Future. I'm pretty pleased with the way it turned out in the cockpit, but that's not the same effect I'm gonna want on the frame. I know I'm still quite a ways away from that step. Just thinking ahead. By the way, there will be no seat belts here! I guess the pilot will just have to be a little careful.
Agent G Posted February 2, 2015 Posted February 2, 2015 Jeremy that is looking great. Isn't it a shame to close up the pit hiding all that detail? If you let Future cure overnight it is pretty much impervious to everything but laquer thinner unless you flood the surface and let it sit. I for one use enamel or oil thinned with plain old Testors red can "Universal Enamel Thinner" for most of my washes. Another thing you may want to try down the road is using dark brown instead of black for washes. A jar of Model Master "Burnt Umber" enamel goes a long way when you use it as a wash. I have a selection of artist oils that I thin with "Mona Lisa Orderless Thinner". That stuff is so mild it doesn't effect fully cured enamel! I just finished "dusting up" a M1A1 tank with enamel washes. I painted the whole thing with enamels and then let it sit for a few months. That combo of oil and thinner didn't begin to effect the enamel paint job. Just a few tips I picked up by trial and error, ........................mostly error. G
atomicholiday Posted February 2, 2015 Author Posted February 2, 2015 Thanks Wayne! Oils are on my list of things to try out soon. I picked some up recently to try to simulate wood. May have to try thinning it out and giving a wash a shot too.
Agent G Posted February 2, 2015 Posted February 2, 2015 That will open up a whole new way of doing things for you. One tip, don't use the oil paintstraight from the tube. Put a dollop on a piece of raw cardboard, the inside of a kit box is perfect for this. The oil absorbs and leaves you with concentrated pigment. It won't seperate that way and your washes will be consistent as will any blending you wish to do. G
atomicholiday Posted February 6, 2015 Author Posted February 6, 2015 Yeah, check it out. I did a little painting/weathering on a few bits. Here's where we're at so far. I did the area around the wheel wells and covers in MM pale green and the flaps in MM interior green and sprayed all of that with Future. Then I brushed on some brown wash I made from Tamiya acrylics and thinner. I still need to spray some clear flat on the flaps. They're a bit too glossy yet. I'm debating what color to paint the inside of the wing above the wheel wells. I can tell from pics there's a zip in liner in there, and I've heard it's the same color as the bottom of the plane, but everybody seems to paint that area interior green. I can't decide if I'm happy with this wash or not. I don't know how realistic it really is. Any thoughts? Anyway, I'm working on the exhaust next. I got the base color sprayed but I still want to dry brush a little rust on the tips. Won't be to long and I'll be gluing the fuselage halves together. Can't wait for that part. It'll be cool to see it start actually looking like a plane!
atomicholiday Posted February 20, 2015 Author Posted February 20, 2015 Thanks Joe. I took a short break from building for about a week & a half. Been fighting a cold. But I started in again last night for a bit. I re-shot the flaps to match the wheel wells and did some work on the exhaust tips. I'll get some pics posted this weekend once I get a little more done.
atomicholiday Posted February 23, 2015 Author Posted February 23, 2015 Did a little more on this one today. Shot the landing gear and hubs silver, put a little clear flat on the flaps, and most important, got the fuselage glued together! Finally! I put tape on both sides of the seam and put some Mr. Surfacer on it, but I think I may need to use some putty in a few spots.
atomicholiday Posted February 27, 2015 Author Posted February 27, 2015 I'm starting assembly on the fuselage and I'm not sure when I should attach the prop. I'd like to paint it separately, but if I glue on the front part of the fuselage, how can I attach the prop without gluing that pin in place? Suggestions?
Roadrunner Posted February 27, 2015 Posted February 27, 2015 I don't understand the problem. Doesn't the pin install from the rear of the cowl front piece, then into the spinner backplate?
Snake45 Posted February 27, 2015 Posted February 27, 2015 I'm starting assembly on the fuselage and I'm not sure when I should attach the prop. I'd like to paint it separately, but if I glue on the front part of the fuselage, how can I attach the prop without gluing that pin in place? Suggestions? First, read my sig line. Now, glue the cowling piece onto the fuselage and do whatever you need to do to make it look like it grew there, if you get my drift. Replace the prop shaft with a piece of plastic rod or aluminum tubing, glue it to the prop, and slip the prop in place last thing just before you put the model on the shelf. Simplicity itself! Another idea would be to come up with some sort of retainer for the plastic prop shaft on the backside of the cowling (a strip of plastic should do it). Glue the nosepiece on, proceed with the rest of the build, and then mount the prop to the secured shaft last thing, as per above.
Roadrunner Posted February 27, 2015 Posted February 27, 2015 You can also dispense with the pin altogether, and just glue the prop/spinner assembly on with a smear of Elmer's. The prop won't spin, but that's OK, and the Elmer's is way strong enough.
atomicholiday Posted February 28, 2015 Author Posted February 28, 2015 I don't understand the problem. Doesn't the pin install from the rear of the cowl front piece, then into the spinner backplate? Yup. My problem was, if you want the prop to spin, how do you not glue the pin in place and have it stay in place while you glue the prop to it. I just didn't want to re-invent the wheel if there was a proven method out there. Snake, I'm gonna take your first suggestion. I like the idea of being able to remove the prop for storage or whatever reason. Gentlemen, thanks for your comments/suggestion.
Roadrunner Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 Another approach then, would b to glue a washer the same thickness as the pin head onto the cowling back, with a flat piece of plastic glued over that, trapping the pin in the cowling, but still allowing movement.
Snake45 Posted February 28, 2015 Posted February 28, 2015 Snake, I'm gonna take your first suggestion. I like the idea of being able to remove the prop for storage or whatever reason. Gentlemen, thanks for your comments/suggestion. I think most of my model airplanes of the last 30 years or so have removable props. As you say, great for storage. Haven't had a broken prop blade in a long, long time.
atomicholiday Posted February 28, 2015 Author Posted February 28, 2015 Finally making some progress! Check it out. Ok, here are a couple shots of the cockpit. I've already done some work on the fuselage seam. We'll see how I did once I get some primer on it. I got the cowl glued on and applied Mr. Surfacer 500 to fill the seam. Ready for sanding as soon as it dries. Flaps installed. At final assembly they will be open. And finally, landing gear ready for assembly. I still need to figure out how I'm gonna weather the tires though.
atomicholiday Posted February 28, 2015 Author Posted February 28, 2015 Thanks Kevin. I was gonna quit working on it earlier, but I couldn't resist. Got the nose guns glued on now.
atomicholiday Posted March 4, 2015 Author Posted March 4, 2015 It actually looks like an airplane now! Looks like I've got my work cut out for me with those wing roots.
Snake45 Posted March 4, 2015 Posted March 4, 2015 It actually looks like an airplane now! Looks like I've got my work cut out for me with those wing roots. Yes, and you need to do it right. Either too much or too little dihedral and your model, no matter how nice the rest of it is, will look like a cheap toy. Dihedral simply makes or breaks a model airplane.
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