1:8 scratch deuce

[futurattraction]

Lookin' mighty good, Ray!

[Ognib]

Thanks, Bill.

I neglected to install the frame tabs for motor mounts before spraying the base coat of black on the frame.

They'll get blacked out when I do the final topcoat.

Motor mounts & frame tabs have been drilled & aligned with pins...later to be replaced with mineature bolts.

Trans tailshaft is still right on the centerline.

Bending jig for the tubular K members.

[Ognib]

Lookin' mighty good, Ray!

Thanks, Scott.

[Ognib]

Tubes across the center are temporary spacers until I get everything fitted together.

Edited July 15, 2013 by Ognib

[dpride]

As you are spending time researching and scaling all the components, I think the headers should be scale 1 1/2" which would be a common size for that engine.

They look a little too small. Just an observation.

Looks good so far.

[Ognib]

Thanks for the comments, David.

I agree...been bugging me since I bent them, just haven't purchased the proper sized wire yet.

Been missing seeing your work...how've you been?

[Ognib]

Finally got the alternator on the engine.

This is my third go at the mounting fixture.

First one I worked in too thin of material & it looked unrealistic when held on the engine.

Second one just got in a hurry & it had a totally unbalanced look about it.

Think this one will work ok.

Edited July 16, 2013 by Ognib

[stump]

Oh my goodness.....a bloke disappears for a while and misses some of the koolest goings on......

Amazing work and craftsmanship Ray, just amazing. LOVE where this is heading.

[Ognib]

Thanks, Greg, I appreciate that.

[Ognib]

Rubber motor mounts with integrated steel strength ring.

[vintagedragfan]

that should work Ray. looks awesome man

[Ognib]

Thanks, Bill.

Assembly fixture for installing vertical uprights in the K members.

It occured to me that a cotter pin would be a logical place to start on fabbing ball joint rod ends.

[stump]

Great stuff Ray.

Hey, neat idea with the cotter pin, watching to see how this pans out. Love your way of thinking.

[Ognib]

Thanks, Greg.

1/8" tubing scales to 1" for 4bar links.

3/32" cotter pin fits snugly inside tube.

3mm nut for jam nut.

Short piece of 1/8 tube around a 2.5mm bolt & nut for the cross bolt.

Edited July 18, 2013 by Ognib

[Ognib]

In general this looks ok to me.

However the nuts both seem to be visually, proportionally too large in the outside diameter.

The 1/8 tubing scales to 1"...the jam nut measures .217" x 8 = 1.72...that's basically a 1 3/4" nut at scale...humm

[vintagedragfan]

hi Ray, the bars look great, make a trip to the hobby store, they have nuts and bolts down to 00-90, would be more to scale for you, not cheap tho!

[stump]

Ray, it looks great man.

With regard to the nut, as Bill mentions, some smaller diameter (and cross section width) from Scale Hardware or similar, held in an appropriate wrench, run a drill bit carefully through removing the inner thread, this may then slip over the cotter pin, yielding a smaller more "scale" jam nut??

[Ognib]

Thanks for the feedback, guys.

Talked with a friend yesterday who has a fair collection of mini hardware & he said he'd turn me on to a few pieces so I can determine just what sizes I want to use for this.

Looks like the only practical way to buy this stuff is online in lots of 25 or 50.

So far Micro Fasteners seems to have the best pricing.

Where are you guys buying your stuff?

Happy saturday!

[Ognib]

Kept the 1/8 tube for the link, but downsized everything else.

This looks much more proportionate to my eye.

1/16 cotter pin vs 3/32 in the first prototype, in back.

Cross bolt is now 1/16 vs 3/32, before.

1/16 cross bolt scales up to a 1/2" bolt shaft holding a 1" link tube to the mounting brackets on rear axle & also to mounts on rear of tubular K members.

"That dog'll hunt", as they say.

Edited July 20, 2013 by Ognib

[dpride]

I think this is a good idea, but only a friend would tell you that your nuts are too big....

I made a couple of different sizes to see how it would look. The smaller one with a 0-80 nut would be for a rail or light drag car.

The larger of the two would be about street size. The brass tube is 1/8" and the larger nut is 10BA. Drill out the threads in lathe.

[Ognib]

Those look fantastic, David!

I've been told that before.

Context is everything...

Still working with fasteners that are available at the local hdwre store.

Not a lot there for this type stuff.

What camera are you using?

I can't seem to get that crisp focused detail with mine on close-ups.

Edited July 22, 2013 by Ognib

[Ognib]

To my eye, scales out pretty good against the frame.

Time to shop for some realistic hardware.

[Darren B]

Man I wish I would have seen this build before I sold my two 1/8th scale deuces, I would have built one like this , your work is incredible, like a real one, thanks for sharing i will be watching this with great interest.

[Ognib]

Darren, thank you for the compliment, I certainly appreciate it.

Been working on this, this afternoon.

Not having lathe or mill, I don't have the capability to cut tapered axle housings, so have to do it this way, for now.

I think that's why it's called scratch building...constantly scratching my head, figguring out how do it with what I have to work with.

Edited July 21, 2013 by Ognib

[stump]

FANtastic update Ray, and yes, the slight downsizing works amazingly well, good stuff.

Hey, if you're still chasing hardware, I've been getting 90% of mine through Scale Hardware. Not sure how they compete price wise, I just tend to go there because they are quick, even posted down to Aus.