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Original Tamiya 1:12 1978 Lotus JPS Mk. III - 9/30/14


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Today's post will be called "Tanks alot" :rolleyes: . Looking at pictures of the 1:1 car a kept on seeing the tank located just behind and underneath the roll hoop. There are two large clear hoses that run from it to the engine. These hoses can be seen in most engine photos. Oddly enough Tamiya did not include this tank in the kit. I thought I would try to scratch build one.

I got all of the basic pieces ready. I made the tank, punched out a couple of discs and used various pieces of metal and plastic tubing. Sorry for the blurry pics.

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I assembled and painted the unit.

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One of the hoses that run from the tank I made runs to another tank on the engine. Of course the fitting for this is not there so I have to add it.

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I also cut off the molded fitting and added my own. This will allow me to add braided line.

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That will do it for today. Please feel free to leave any questions or comments!

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Thank you to all of you who took the time to comment on work so far! I do appreciate them.

Skip, I will post pictures of the completed model soon.

Things don't always go as planned and I am sure we have all ran into problems with our builds. This build has had plenty of these moments. One of them for me was a broken exhaust pipe. It is a bear to try to hold and line up the four individual exhaust pipes in the collector and then in the block. It is definitely a test of patience. I always test fit everything before committing to glue. I thought I had the exhaust figured out. I glued the four pipes into the collector and then tried to line them up into the block. Guess what?? I could not get them to line up to save my life. The glue was starting to set so I decided to bail on this attempt. I ended up breaking off a locator pin in the collector as I was trying to remove the individual pipes. I decided to leave the broken piece in the collector and pin the exhaust in place.

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These are the wing uprights. As you can see they have some pretty wicked ejector pin marks. I use a trick that Gary Kulchock showed me. I use super glue and accelerator for filling these. It works great! The super glue puddles up in the ejector pin mark and fills it pefectly. I put on the accelerator and give it just a minute to set and sand the super glue.

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After a little elbow grease they came out like this.

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More progress pics. The exhausts are installed as is more framework on the back end. Did a little more plumbing too. You can see one of the tanks is also installed. The "FORD" logos have been touched up since this picture was taken.

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Much of the body work is made up of multiple pieces. My experience is that the multi-pieces did not fit well together. On the rear wing, it was not the gap that was the problem but the thickness of the pieces. This made for a large "step" where they went together. It took a lot of putty and sanding to make it presentable.

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I also worked on the air intake / engine cover. A lot of hours went into this too.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you all for the nice comments! I have been very busy with work and have not posted an update for awhile. Time to catch up!

I will show you a little work on the interior. Using pictures in one of my reference magazines I tried to add this feature. There is a "blister" on the right hand side of the cockpit for the driver to shift. I tried to replicate the frame work around the blister. It is by no means perfect but it sure looks a lot better than nothing. I traced the opening and transferred that to a sheet of styrene. I cut out the shape and filed the inside and outside shape as close to the opening as I could. Please note that none of the ejector pin marks will be seen when the model is assembled.

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Masking is one of my least favorite aspects of modeling.....sigh.

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I taped a ruler to the cowling to try to get the rivet spacing even.

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The one thing about using PE is that some of the items are just sooooo small they are nearly impossible to use.

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Here is the final result. Of course the pictures are magnified vs. the real thing and you can see where I did not get the shape exactly right. I can assure you to the naked eye it does not look that bad. Trust me, my finger is not that big.

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Next up. This part I am showing is some type of either the rear wing or suspension adjustment. The kit part is just glued to the interior with nothing attached to it. I have found where the cable goes and will add it. The kit part is the black piece. Not very nice. (The other parts in the picture are just experiements).

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The adjuster is moved front to back and put in a "gate" much like a shifter. I made the "gate" from a left over PE runner. I also cleaned up the kit part to make it a little more presentable.

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The little handle was too much like a blob so I cut it off, drilled a hole and will use a straight pin instead.

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And this is what I ended up with.  It is not perfect but it is a much truer representation of what is in the 1:1.

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For this installment I will post some misc. work. I would work on different sub-assemblies throughout this project.

Wheels and tires. I added valve stems to the wheels and hand painted the Goodyear on both sides of all four tires.

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Front and rear of each.

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You have to love it when your paint job comes out just about perfect. This is Tamiya Gloss Black, out of the can, untouched!

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Of course, for me, perfect paint jobs are few and far between. Note that fish-eye began after the first coats of paint

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Just a quick mock-up to get an idea of how bit this thing is.

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And finally today, a little work on the body cover. (Not sure what is really called.)

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Thanks for looking. Comments / questions welcomed.

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Time for another update, but first a little background info. about the decals. As a reminder, this is an original issue kit from 1977(?) I did not feel very confident that the kit decals would be safe to use. I found a set of Studio 27 decals and purchased those from Japan. For the most part the Studio 27 decals are a copy of the kit decals. The problem is they are not labeled as to where they go! Obviously it is easy to tell where some of the decals go but this sheet is mostly pinstriping. Just long lengths of pinstipes! So I have to look at the kit instructions, find the right kit decal part number and then match it to the Studio 27 sheet. Nothing is ever easy...

Something to keep in mind when looking at the pinstripes in the picture. These things are over a half foot long and about 1mm wide! I did my dead level best to get them straight. Actually they curve so I should say "straight and not wavy". They came out pretty well but not perfect. I did have to cut some of them in half in order to work with them. I should note that the body piece has a bulge/curve in it at the top of the side. This makes the decal look like it is drooping. It isn't.

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I also did a quick mock-up with some of the cowlings.

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At this point I am just about ready to wrap up the interior tub, or monocoque, as I believe it is called. The main body part in the above pictures is ready to glue on to the main tub. Actually I will use epoxy as the main body part has a pretty good twist in it. It does not want to sit flat on the tub. Epoxy should do the trick. Anyhow, some of the work that I have done will be covered up and I don't think anyone will ever see it. I thought I would take a picture or two to show my friends here on MCM what I'm talking about.

There are three switches on the piece that surrounds the steering shaft. I wired them and added grommets. There was a wicked ejector pin mark in the tub that I missed or wasn't sure what to do with, (it was so long ago I don't remember). I covered it with a square piece of sheet and put PE bits on it to make it look like an access panel. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.....lol.

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