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Building an Aurora '22 T Bucket Old School Rod


GasPunkAlley

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Well I started my T bucket project after I rummaged through all of my kits in storage. I dug out the old Aurora built up glue bomb I got 20 years ago and started fixing some minor glue damage on the body. As for the chassis, my Dad gave me a started Roth Outlaw kit and it has a lot of fine parts that are usable. I really like Norm Grabowski's Kookie Kar and he used a Model A frame radically chopped down to an 88" to 90" wheelbase. The Outlaw is about the same. I have attached a pic of the instructions from the Outlaw and a picture of a 3d model someone made of the Kookie Kar Chassis. It appears the frame rails have been flipped around on the Kookie Kar compared to the Outlaw. I started the frame rail mods this weekend. I am using the frame rails and model A rear crossmember, Caddy engine and rear end for my build. I am definitely using wide whites all around, but not sure if I will use slicks or big and Littles street tires.

The first construction photo shows the original rail on the bottom that is unless boxed just like the Kookie Kar. The top one I started to fill in the now incorrectly placed mounting wholes, removed the suspension brackets and radiator side mounts and removed the mounting points for the center crossmember. The second pic shows the outside of the frame rails and what was filled in. The third and fourth construction pic shows the engine block and adding the rounded front tip to the frame rail that I added. The last pic shows the rails and the front and rear crossmember. The front was made from Plastic tube and K&S brass rod. The 3d sketch shows the rear crossmember weld behind the frame, I am keeping like the Outlaw and setting it between the rails.

The Outlaw used spring coils seen more frequently on later '60's show rods. I am probably going to steal the front suspension out of a Revell '29 Model A truck.

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Edited by GasPunkAlley
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Ok, I got a bit further with the chassis. I have it dry fitted together. The white splotches are from the new Perfect Putty. I used Mr. Surface 500 and then tonight I tried for the first tome Perfect Putty. It isn't smelly, it is fine consistency and does dry quickly. I have been able to wet sand it as well. I sanded it on the cowl, door and window frame base.

The ancient Aurora body is cool and obviously different from the Revell '23 T and AMT '25 T roadster bodies. The cowl is smaller and the rear body kick up around the seat is much higher. I love the period custom interior and I am Making good use of that tub. The kits gas tank sorta looks like it says "Ford", but actually is engraved "Tord". I found that amusing. I may consider using the switchers T bucket bed which is really short or the AMT '25 T Pickup bed which is somewhat longer.

The Caddy engine block is glued together but the seams still need sanding and filling. The Aurora kit has a unique set of tires. Old school wide whites up front and WIDE WHITE CHEATER SLICKS out back! The other set of tires are from the Model has which I am leaning towards using now. The tires from Aurora have shrunk and the plastic whitewall insert kept one side bigger and the slicks unfortunately have a slope in them... the grill shell I think is from Accu Pro. I have some photo etch that fits the shell but I am not sure if the shell is from that company. Bought too long ago to remember for sure.

I am thinking of a red body with gold engine block, rear end and details on the yet to be determined front suspension. Gold or red steelies with wide whites.

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Didn't get a lot done last night. I started the engine block clean up, sanded seams and added filler to the gaps and let it dry over night. The Revell Caddy engine is a bit fiddly to make the block fit together. I aligned the upper block to the bottom but that left a gap out back around the bell housing. The chrome piece of the lower housing if placed correctly leaves a .25 mm overhang and the tray droops down. I am going to cut the back part off and the cut will remove enough to get it to be fit. I am also removing a lot of the plating from the engine. I am going to use more Testo Metalized and try my luck with the new to me Al Clad paints. I found a bunch of sink marks on the water pump, so that will be fixed and re painted. For some reason, I don't care for that much chrome and in scale it looks too garish. I am chomping at the bit to start slapping some paint down but I do not want to get ahead of myself. I still need to get the chassis ready and see what kind of engine mounts I need to fabricate.

I also took a picture of the Tord gas tank, shown below lol.

I am going to look up the wiring diagram for the engine. Also, I found some great close up shots of the restored Outlaw. There is some great engine details as well as ideas for metal finishes since a lot of parts where just polished and not plated.

Has anyone ever put a blower onto this vintage engine in a Model and if so what parts are available? A S.C.O.T. blower with two carbs would be cool, but the Cragar with four 2 barrels is still way cool.

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Well, I have been going through the parts I am stealing from the Outlaw kit and I am de-chroming a lot of the engine and chassis, so farbig am stripping off the plating from the oil pan, rear end and axle housings, bell housing and transmission. From the Aurora kit I am stripping the chrome off of the gas tank. The Revell modern chrome is coming off easier than the old Aurora chrome. The water pump I want to keep come but the kit part has a deep sink mark in the casting. I have an original sprue from the parts pack kit and that one is fine, but I do not want to raid that unless I use the whole engine. I guess I will tryou my luck with some Al Clad paint to refinish it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Doing more boring stuff. Filling in seams on the engine block. I also removed the upper bell housing from the block and attached it to the transmission assembly. A lot of fiddly seams to deal with. I am now able to get the transmission to fit better against the block. Still doing some clean up on the frame rails as well.

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  • 2 months later...

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