Len Geisler Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 I finally got around to picking up some more resin so I can continue to cast the small parts I have been doing for myself and some for others. Anyway, last go around I used Smooth On, and it was great, big batch, small batch didn't matter everything cured just fine into a nice white resin part...No issues...I was having a hard time finding a source for it locally so I picked up some Alumilite, and have found a couple things that make me go hmmm, and wanted to run them by you guys, hoping someone would have a little input.... Here is how it went.... The first batch of parts I did came out nice, smooth, clean in the "tan" resin color, one air bubble, but that is b/c I wasn't careful pouring. Now, I poured these parts, as the mixing cup was getting warm from the reaction of the resin, and I am not sure if this helped or not. Next time around I mixed up the same volume of resin stirred it well and poured prior to the heat coming on. This round of parts took longer to cure, and never quite go to that same, glossy tan color the first batch had. They have cured, and are quite hard, and I even painted on up so I can show someone what the parts look like finished. Several more "batches" and the results are all similar to the secon scenario above. Now here is the part that gets me, the part of the batch not used cured fine in the cup, just like the first set of parts, clean, glossy, "tan" resin. So I reread the manual and it mentions a couple things, heating the molds in a microwave (aint happeing in my house) and mixing small batches casuing issues. So I made some adjustments and had the same issues... I really dont want to start heating molds and all that jazz....so, can anyone shed some light for me on these issues?? Am I using the wrong stuff? Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigPoppa Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 I finally got around to picking up some more resin so I can continue to cast the small parts I have been doing for myself and some for others. Anyway, last go around I used Smooth On, and it was great, big batch, small batch didn't matter everything cured just fine into a nice white resin part...No issues...I was having a hard time finding a source for it locally so I picked up some Alumilite, and have found a couple things that make me go hmmm, and wanted to run them by you guys, hoping someone would have a little input.... Here is how it went.... The first batch of parts I did came out nice, smooth, clean in the "tan" resin color, one air bubble, but that is b/c I wasn't careful pouring. Now, I poured these parts, as the mixing cup was getting warm from the reaction of the resin, and I am not sure if this helped or not. Next time around I mixed up the same volume of resin stirred it well and poured prior to the heat coming on. This round of parts took longer to cure, and never quite go to that same, glossy tan color the first batch had. They have cured, and are quite hard, and I even painted on up so I can show someone what the parts look like finished. Several more "batches" and the results are all similar to the secon scenario above. Now here is the part that gets me, the part of the batch not used cured fine in the cup, just like the first set of parts, clean, glossy, "tan" resin. So I reread the manual and it mentions a couple things, heating the molds in a microwave (aint happeing in my house) and mixing small batches casuing issues. So I made some adjustments and had the same issues... I really dont want to start heating molds and all that jazz....so, can anyone shed some light for me on these issues?? Am I using the wrong stuff? Thanks in advance When I first started casting I picked up one of those Hobby Lobby Aluminite kits. Same deal, first castings were ok, but for me it seemed like it started setting up faster and faster and getting funkier results. I split some Smooth-on with a buddy and never looked back. Is the issue only that the color isn't the same anymore? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Geisler Posted May 12, 2009 Author Share Posted May 12, 2009 When I first started casting I picked up one of those Hobby Lobby Aluminite kits. Same deal, first castings were ok, but for me it seemed like it started setting up faster and faster and getting funkier results. I split some Smooth-on with a buddy and never looked back. Is the issue only that the color isn't the same anymore? Well, I am quite happy to hear I am not the only one with those issues.... It seems to be, as the parts are quite hard, just a strange shade of bronze sorta, maybe even a little transparent...strange.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 I'm thinking I will be needing to get back to casting some small parts and Smooth-On sounds interesting. They do have a web site and I expect their products are available on line. What is their exact product you all use? The small amount of casting I've done was with Micro-Marks products and bubbles were a major problem with me. Does SmoothOn's products minimize the bubble problem? I know this can't be eliminated without some "exotic" techniques .. at least for me wit the small amount of casting I will need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 I finally got around to picking up some more resin so I can continue to cast the small parts I have been doing for myself and some for others. Anyway, last go around I used Smooth On, and it was great, big batch, small batch didn't matter everything cured just fine into a nice white resin part...No issues...I was having a hard time finding a source for it locally so I picked up some Alumilite, and have found a couple things that make me go hmmm, and wanted to run them by you guys, hoping someone would have a little input.... Here is how it went.... The first batch of parts I did came out nice, smooth, clean in the "tan" resin color, one air bubble, but that is b/c I wasn't careful pouring. Now, I poured these parts, as the mixing cup was getting warm from the reaction of the resin, and I am not sure if this helped or not. Next time around I mixed up the same volume of resin stirred it well and poured prior to the heat coming on. This round of parts took longer to cure, and never quite go to that same, glossy tan color the first batch had. They have cured, and are quite hard, and I even painted on up so I can show someone what the parts look like finished. Several more "batches" and the results are all similar to the secon scenario above. Now here is the part that gets me, the part of the batch not used cured fine in the cup, just like the first set of parts, clean, glossy, "tan" resin. So I reread the manual and it mentions a couple things, heating the molds in a microwave (aint happeing in my house) and mixing small batches casuing issues. So I made some adjustments and had the same issues... I really dont want to start heating molds and all that jazz....so, can anyone shed some light for me on these issues?? Am I using the wrong stuff? Thanks in advance Len back in the day when missing link & motor city were one, Jeff was not a fan of alumalite either...all i remember is our finished products were brittle, both motor city & missing link use smooth-on, just different resins, we live 45 minutes from our distributor & just have it shipped. Personally Missing link adores smooth on, I am sure Jeff at motor city also swears by smooth on, I dont know enough about most other resins but missing link did once use a different resin with the same fillers with only 1 problem, no customers would notice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1320wayne Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 Len, Alumilite resin is very finicky. I use it quite often only due to the fact that I can drive down to the local Hobbytown and pick it up versus having to drive almost two hours for other options or mail order. The color consistency of your poured castings is representative of how you mix the parts A and B together. More B than A and you will get a more transparent appearrance in your casting. Only if you go too far askew with your mixing process will you not get a good cured casting. Alumilite is definately not the best resin out there but it's still useable in my opinion. There is also a white version available that has a totally different consistency than the tan version. The white resin mixes in almost a watery substance and when poured takes much longer to start setting up. You have almost 5 to 6 minutes before the resin starts to cure which gives you plenty of time to either work the resin into small crevices easier or pour more parts out of one mixing. The heating process for your molds that the instructions talks about is perfectly safe. You should only heat your mold (depending on size) for about 20 to 30 seconds. Heating the mold helps the resin spread easier thoughout the part. One other trick is to sprinkle baby powder onto your mold before pouring as it helps to eliminate air bubbles. It's like adding cinnamon to a piece of toast. After you sprinkle the powder on turn the mold over and shake off the excess. I hope this helps. I'm no expert by any means but I have been playing with this for about four years now with some success. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Geisler Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 Kevin, Thanks for your input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smart-Resins Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 I will chime in and add my two cents, wich technically are not worth that much, and some may think even less. I am not a fancy pro at resin casting, but I do a few things and sell some stuff when I get around to it. I have had many poeple happy and one not happy at all. I could never get consistant results from the Alumilite stuff. Sometimes cured too fast, sometimes bubble all up, sometimes perfect, sometimes took forever to cure. Sometimes almost a white, sometimes a tan, sometimes a yellowish. Gregg Fox turned me onto smooth on, and I have not looked back. initially with the molds, I had issues with bubbles. But I learned, that I had the pot opn 45lbs for Alumilites molds, about 30-35lbs works for smooth cast. I usually keep it about 30 because that seems to work the best for the resin as well. Now for the resin, I have learned that adding the blue bottle first, then the yellow bottle seems to work better for some reason. With Alumilite, I always did the baby powder and the microwave thing. I have not yet with smooth cast. Just too lazy since I am now getting better reults being lazy. Perhaps I should try the microwave and baby powder again? But I am happy with my results. Now, if you dont want or cant use the microwave, but want to heat up the molds, you can also use a toaster oven, or hot plate But I honestly found the microwave better. Also with the alumilite, I cooled my resin in the fridge first as this would give me more then 30 seconds to pour the resin. I honestly have not tried that with the smooth cast yet. Like I said, the smooth cast is such a more superior brand that I go with the flow on it! Jody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Geisler Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 Len, Alumilite resin is very finicky. I use it quite often only due to the fact that I can drive down to the local Hobbytown and pick it up versus having to drive almost two hours for other options or mail order. The color consistency of your poured castings is representative of how you mix the parts A and B together. More B than A and you will get a more transparent appearrance in your casting. Only if you go too far askew with your mixing process will you not get a good cured casting. Alumilite is definately not the best resin out there but it's still useable in my opinion. There is also a white version available that has a totally different consistency than the tan version. The white resin mixes in almost a watery substance and when poured takes much longer to start setting up. You have almost 5 to 6 minutes before the resin starts to cure which gives you plenty of time to either work the resin into small crevices easier or pour more parts out of one mixing. The heating process for your molds that the instructions talks about is perfectly safe. You should only heat your mold (depending on size) for about 20 to 30 seconds. Heating the mold helps the resin spread easier thoughout the part. One other trick is to sprinkle baby powder onto your mold before pouring as it helps to eliminate air bubbles. It's like adding cinnamon to a piece of toast. After you sprinkle the powder on turn the mold over and shake off the excess. I hope this helps. I'm no expert by any means but I have been playing with this for about four years now with some success. Wayne, Thanks for your input, I am in the same boat, the Alumilite is much easier for me to obtain that the Smooth On. Also, I am not saying it is bad, just different than what I am used to. Maybe I will try mixing larger batches and seeing what happens. It sounds as if my mix is off a bit and that is the reason for the "off" color in my finished parts..... Well, back to the mixing bowls.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george 53 Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 I've been hearing about this Smooth On for little while here,now. Where can you get it? Is it expensive? Can you get a "Sample/Starter"kit? Is it a 2 part mix,like Micro-Mark? Do they have a web-site? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 (edited) I came on these after first reading this. I personally can't vouch for any of these sites but just wanted to hold George's hand. smooth-on.com I know a lot of craft people that buy from this site, though I have not at this time. Started Set I'm not sure of the exact Smooth-On product number for the resin everyone is using ... could someone enlighten us? Edited May 13, 2009 by Foxer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george 53 Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 Thanks Mike, I feel MUCH safer now! Your TOO good to me! I also got both those addy's down.Thanks!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffb Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 george, theres a sorta local distributor for smoothon products. theyre in shelby twp, both kev and i use em. tfb plastics... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaronw Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 george, theres a sorta local distributor for smoothon products. theyre in shelby twp, both kev and i use em. tfb plastics... Which of the smooth on resins do you use? The resin I've been using for years has changed the formula to one with a very short working time so I'm shopping around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffb Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 i use both the 300 and 305..the 300 sets very fast and is great for open molds and filling voids, the 305 is slower, and really needs to be pressurized. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Davkin Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 If you want to use Alumilite you should buy it directly from Alumilite Corp. Buying those kits off the shelf in a hobby shop is playing russian roulette. Any resin has a shelf life and the only way to know you're getting fresh resin is to buy it direct from the manufacturer, that's why you're having much better luck with Smooth-on. Granted, I'm not a fan of the products Alumilite packages in those starter kits, they really aren't their best products so I don't know why they do that. I always use their "White" resin and the Dow HSII RTV for the molds and have had very good and consistent results. Their "White" resin has the longest pot life and is the thinnest so it pours easily and you have time to fill the mold without trapping bubbles. The only thing I really like from Smooth-on is their Reoflex urethane casting rubber for making tires. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smart-Resins Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 I had found that the Alumilite products were usually cheaper in the LHS then they were direct. The shipping was the real killer direct. The Smooth On is much cheaper. Where it would have cost $120 for a gallon of rubber shipped from Alumilite, it cost me under $90 for Smooth On's shipped! For that price difference, I can also get a small kit of the resin. As for them selling starter kits, not to my knowledge. However, the only difference in the starter kits are the stir sticks and the cups. You can find these much much cheaper in other places. Try Mister Art!! I believe you can also get Smooth on and other products through them. I boght my last thousands stir sticks at Micheals for under $10!! to buy from them direct, go to www.technoindustrial.com or call phone# (262)369-1010. For the Resin I use the 325 series and for the rubber I use Mold Max 30. You can call them and tell them better what you use it for and they can tell you what should work best for your situation! I also honestly find it much easier to order it online and have it in a few days as apposed to driving a hour to the LHS to buy some! The shipping is uaually cheaper then driving my van at 14MPG 2 hours total!! LOL. Jody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricks Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 george, theres a sorta local distributor for smoothon products. theyre in shelby twp, both kev and i use em. tfb plastics... TFB plastics is where i get all my resin as well.. There more then helpful there, any questions Ive had they always knew the answer. That and its great fun to go in there and play with all the fun stuff they have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abell82 Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 I believe that the instructions on how to use the Alumilite say specifically that you have to heat the mold to aid in curing the resin. This could be part of the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Geisler Posted May 14, 2009 Author Share Posted May 14, 2009 I believe that the instructions on how to use the Alumilite say specifically that you have to heat the mold to aid in curing the resin. This could be part of the problem. Yes, I saw that, and that is one if my issues, I don't want to have to worry about warming molds to get stuff to cure. According to some of the other responses above other guys have had similar results, and there have been no issues, the parts a re rock hard, just an off color....Sounds like next time, I will either go back to Smooth On or try the white Alumalite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Davkin Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 I believe that the instructions on how to use the Alumilite say specifically that you have to heat the mold to aid in curing the resin No, they don't. They say it may help if you have problems, but it's not required and I've never had to do it. Another trick if you need a longer pot life is to put the resin in the freezer to cool it off, but that's also something I've never felt a need to do either. Remember I'm talking aboiut their "White" resin. The "Tan" resin that comes in their starter kits is junk. I won't touch it. Alumilite sells about eight different variations of their resin and for model car parts I've found that "White" works the best. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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