Painting/supplies for beginners

[Machina_Zero]

So I've been collecting models for a while now...mainly Japanese sports cars(Tamiya, Aoshima, Fujimi) and I've finally decided to take the plunge and start building them. I decided to start with a Tamiya 180SX as it looks to be the simplest and one of the more ordinary cars I have. So I washed the parts off in soapy water, rinsed and dried them. I'm using tamiya paints. Well....3 brush strokes in and i'm disapointed lol. I purchased some golden synthetic brushes to use. I started painting the back seats in the interior tub and it didn't go to well. I can see the brush strokes. It almost seems like its drying to fast? It gets all "gloopy" as i'm painting. I made sure to shake n stir for several minutes. I don't really want to drop the cash on an airbrush while i'm still a beginner.

Now I know this first model is going to be far from perfect, but i'd like to be at least satisfied that I made a good starting point.

Any tips for the new guy? Do I need to use different brushes? Does the paint need to be thinned? Do I need to prime an interior tub? Any paint tips would be really appreciated, thank you!

Edited September 16, 2014 by Machina_Zero

[JunkPile]

My tip to you is more practice is required

[JollySipper]

Hey, Mike.

I try to prime everything that gets painted. Even the small parts.... makes the paint cover better.

[StevenGuthmiller]

I think spray cans may be the answer. trying to get a good finish with a brush is nearly impossible in my opinion. Go get yourself a couple of cans of spray paint, Tamiya, Testors, whatever. That's where I would start. If you want to use brush paints for your interior & the like, I would use flat paints. They dry much flatter & smoother than gloss paints. You can always spray a gloss or satin clear over it to get the finish you want. Steve

[jaymcminn]

Mike, I get how frustrating it can be working with this stuff when you first start out. I definitely recommend priming anything you're going to paint, be it with a brush, airbrush or spray can. The Tamiya rattle can primers are the easiest and most forgiving in my experience. The Tamiya brush paints can definitely get "gloopy" (that is the correct technical term, btw) but can be thinned to brush out more evenly with the Tamiya thinner or rubbing alcohol. You may have to apply a couple of coats if you thin them. Make sure the paint dries completely between each coat. Definitely practice on a kit you don't care about until you get a feel for how the paint flows out. It might take a while, so don't get discouraged... brush painting is the first technique most modelers learn, but is very difficult to do really well. You might also want to try the Testors Model Master acrylics... I find that they're much more forgiving over large areas than the Tamiya paints.

Edited September 17, 2014 by jaymcminn

[unclescott58]

I only use a brush for very small things. Other wise I spray paint. I love Tamiya's spray paints. I've had very good results from them.

Scott

[blackandwhite]

Being an acrylic paint, it will brush on thin. If you are wanting thicker better coverage for brush painting pieces, try model master or Testors enamels. They will take longer to set so don't handle them right away or you'll leave finger prints all over them

[southpier]

see #6

[chunkypeanutbutter]

Always, when brush painting, use real hair brushes. They get better coverage than synthetic.

[Mike Kucaba]

Some tips for using water-based acrylics.

They brush well using some of the additives for them such as flow aid and retarders.These are usually found in the arts section at Hobby lobby. Liquitex is one brand I've used and natural hair brushes will swell using those. I recommend synthetic hair brushes.

The additives work well when spraying them also.

[Mike_G]

Tamiya acrylic paints have a drying agent in them which can make them dry too fast for brush-painting, I thin them with isopropyl alcohol and a drop of water so that they don't dry so fast and it works much better for brush-painting.

[sliferkiller]

Since this is a supplies doing with paints I guess it should fit in if i ask my question here instead of making another post..
What type of thinners work best to clean brushes from testors enamels? And I'm thinking cheap, so not testors enamel paint thinner.. does lacquer thinner work? or what thinners do they sell at the hardware store that is cheaper, and will it work for cleaning up messy paint jobs?

[StevenGuthmiller]

Since this is a supplies doing with paints I guess it should fit in if i ask my question here instead of making another post..

What type of thinners work best to clean brushes from testors enamels? And I'm thinking cheap, so not testors enamel paint thinner.. does lacquer thinner work? or what thinners do they sell at the hardware store that is cheaper, and will it work for cleaning up messy paint jobs?

I just use cheapo paint thinner, (mineral spirits) for cleaning brushes & thinning my enamels for brushing or airbrushing. You can buy it by the gallon almost anywhere. Seems to work just fine. I've had a gallon I've been using for the past 10 or 15 years, & I still have half of it left. Not sure what you mean about the "messy paint jobs". Don't use it to strip paint off of your model if that's what you mean. Steve

[sliferkiller]

I just use cheapo paint thinner, (mineral spirits) for cleaning brushes & thinning my enamels for brushing or airbrushing. You can buy it by the gallon almost anywhere. Seems to work just fine. I've had a gallon I've been using for the past 10 or 15 years, & I still have half of it left. Not sure what you mean about the "messy paint jobs". Don't use it to strip paint off of your model if that's what you mean. Steve

I meant messy paint jobs as like.. you know how sometimes you're painting in those fine details and you get some on a part you dont want to, some thinners you can just wipe it off with a Q tip with some thinners on it

[StevenGuthmiller]

I meant messy paint jobs as like.. you know how sometimes you're painting in those fine details and you get some on a part you dont want to, some thinners you can just wipe it off with a Q tip with some thinners on it

I use acrylic craft paints for fine details most of the time, so it's just water clean up. I avoid using any kind of thinners on my models. way too many bad things can happen when thinners come in contact with styrene. Steve

[sliferkiller]

acrylic craft paints can be thinned with water aswell right?

[southpier]

yes; and a drop of windshield washer fluid, too. or isopropyl alcohol. everyone has their favorite mix.

Edited September 18, 2014 by southpier

[jwrass]

Mike,

I have brushes in my hand almost every day as a profession ( pinstriper, sign artist, yada yada see my profile) This is what I would recommend as a brushing technique.

1) Success with applying your paint depends on four things. The proper size brush for the Item you are painting. How you load your brush with paint. The viscosity of the paint in your brush and the type of hair your brush is made of, i.e. Natural, Synthetic or a blend of Natural and Synthetic. As a rule of thumb the Synthetics, the Blends and some Naturals will work in any medium, Water based, Oil Based, Lacquers and Urethanes. I don't recommend Naturals such as squirrel hair (sometimes called camel hair) in water based paint as they tend to get mussy as their hairs are very soft, These types of hair work best with Oil, Lacquer, and Urethanes, not so much with water based.

2) Palette your paint into the brush (sometime called loading) don't do the dip from the container and brush on the surface. Have your paint and a small container of the thinner you will be using that is compatible with your paint. Get a magazine (one with shinny pages) dip your brush into paint container a few times to get puddle of paint on to your palette, Now take your brush and move it back and forth in a linear motion to properly load your brush, fully load the brush, get the paint all the way up to the ferrule. If you feel you have to much paint in the brush stroke it off to the side of the puddle to remove some of the paint, if you feel you have to little return to the palette and add more paint. The reason you want to have some thinner on your palette is you may find that your paint is a bit to thick, dip your brush in the thinner and go to the puddle of paint and palette until you to get the consistency you want. continue to do this little dance on the palette each time you load the brush. This process will take a little time to get used to however once you get it your brush results will improve exponentially.

I typically use the manufactures thinner of the brand of paint I use, However what ever thinner you use that's a decision only you can make, just make sure it's compatible with your paint.

When you are done with the painting process thoroughly clean your brush with the thinner you used to thin your paint. If you want your brushes to last for years be gentle with them when you clean them, swish them back and forth in the thinner and use a rag and gently squeeze paint out from around the ferrule. Rinse and repeat until clean. I use a brush conditioner on my brushes after use to keep them soft and supple I never store them dry.

I don't use any type of waterborne paint other than Autoair and I use their thinners for paletting and clean up. I can't help you with reduction of any of those other types of waterborne paints but it seems that a few on the thread have a good handle as what to use.

If you are going to get serious about your modeling a Airbrush is the way to go. But for now if you try this technique I think you will be pleased with the results.

If you are confused on the paletting process go on youtube, their are many pinstripers who have how to videos and cover how to load a brush process

I hope this helps! Good Luck!!!! Cheers jwrass

Edited September 19, 2014 by jwrass