Working with Model Master Buffing Metalizer/ Update with pics 6/14/14

[Speedfreak]

Today I'm going to use Model Master Metalizer from the can for the first time on some suspension/drivetrain components for my Fiat. Testors says you need to buff with a soft cloth and use 'Metalizer Sealer' which I need to get. Is there anything else that will seal it besides this specific Testors product? And can I use Tamiya masking tape for masking, or , do I need to do the wet news paper method that Testors suggests? Any input will be appreciated on this, thanks.

Edited June 14, 2014 by Speedfreak

[Ace-Garageguy]

The Testors "sealer" for their Metalizer line will stop it from rubbing off, but it WILL RUIN THE EFFECT, and make it look like ordinary silver paint. I know this from experience and experimentation with the product. Some WATER BASED sealers have been suggested to overcome the problem, but I haven't tried them yet.

It also seems a lot of folks haven't realized that you HAVE TO BUFF the stuff to get a good metal effect, and they seem to want to shoot it dry and grainy, and just wipe it a time of two with a dirty rag. All that will do is give you an as-cast appearance, as in cast-aluminum or cast-iron.

To get a good SMOOTH METAL effect, you need to carefully prepare the surface, as the material is pretty thin and will show defects (like poorly filled glue seams and poorly-removed parting lines...even sanding scratches). I personally primer everything I'll be using metalizer on and final sand with at least 800 grit, wet, to eliminate orange peel in the primer, and any other imperfections. Shoot FULL WET COATS of metalizer, and EXPERIMENT to learn how to do it BEFORE you paint your model.

Shot correctly, it will flow out slick and smooth. Let it dry for a few HOURS at least before buffing. I've found the inside of an old sweatshirt makes about the best material for bringing up the shine.

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Though far from perfect, this will give you an idea of what to expect. The intake manifold was shot wet with Aluminum and buffed, for a smooth die-cast aluminum look. The bellhousing was shot slightly dry to get a slight grain, and simulate a bright, sand-cast alloy look. The injector body was shot with Titanium and buffed for a contrasting cast-magnesium look, and the blower housing was just left in gray primer, to simulate an as-cast aluminum look common on some industrial parts.

Edited June 13, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy

[HOLMES55]

I started using the metalizers recently and found that you don't need primer underneath them, they seem to buff out better without the primer and they cover very well

with only one coat. I read that you only need a thin coat and the more you apply the less the buffing effect works.

[Matt T.]

Spray it on bare plastic and buff it with an old t-shirt. No need to seal it, just be careful handling the painted parts. I love the stuff!

Check my Fotki - I used some to do the "metal" floor in my '41 Willys gasser.

Edited June 13, 2014 by Matt T.

[Speedfreak]

Thanks to everyone for the replies! I'm gonna try it later today, I'm excited to try it out. If you don't seal it how careful do you have to be? Like Don't touch it at all?

Matthew that floor on your Willy's looks awesome! So does the car.

Nice engine Bill!

Brad, that chassis looks good.

[Matt T.]

Thanks!

Normal handling required to assemble the parts isn't a problem. It's not as fragile as Alclad.

[Modelmartin]

I have had the best results by using the non-buffing metalizer and polishing it. It actually works pretty well for a bright metal look. If I want something polished I just go with the Alclad.

[Ace-Garageguy]

You can get different results depending on how you apply it, and how you prep the surface before. I achieved this simulated bare-aluminum just-finished body by using metalizers in non-traditional ways. The scratches in the surface are INTENTIONAL, and represent sanding and tool marks the body builder would have left in the aluminum, before primer was applied. The real Challenger One, Mickey Thompson's land speed record car, was introduced to the press looking like this in 1959. I've done a LOT of experimenting with the stuff.

I also have to recommend primering, IF you know how to shoot it slick with no orange peel. It dramatically improves coverage, and insures you won't buff through high spots. The wheels on this car were molded in dark blue, primered slick, and shot with metallizer and buffed. They have NO orange peel and look exactly like die-cast alloy parts.

Edited June 13, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy

[Cato]

Just tried a change in the buffing habit.

After 2 thin wet coats, and about 2 hours, I buffed lightly with facial tissue. That gets it brighter.

The secret is to buff again but with about 4000 grit polishing cloth. Sheen and brightness improve drastically.

You will not get a 'chrome-like' finish so don't expect that.

[Speedfreak]

Thanks Andy, Bill and Cato. In the instructions from Testors for Metalizer(s) that you buff, they make it sound like you either only apply 'one' coat let dry for ten minutes then buff. Or, you buff after each coat, which doesn't make sense, so I'll do one coat and buff and see what happens.

Here's the PDF file from Testors:

http://www.testors.com/simg/209033518.pdf

[jbwelda]

I think you will find some of the shades shine up better than others. I typically try to shoot a very thin coat (difficult from a spray can but much easier with my recently acquired airbrush) and then let it dry an hour or so. then I just take a Q-tip, maybe with a little skin oil on it, and lightly buff the surface. it all kinda blends together at that point, and certain shades like stainless steel and I think aluminum plate, really take on a nice metallic sheen. its not chrome but its pretty convincing metal looking. like mentioned, sealing it ruins it, but without sealing it you don't want to handle it at all, as the sheen continues to rub off on contact. the less shiny shades like magnesium I think look better with a sealing coat of dullcote after they have dried at least 24 hrs. the real secret is to do small pieces. I have to salute anyone who did that whole Challenger body panel, purposeful scratch marks or not. incredible.

jb

[Speedfreak]

I did some experimenting over the last couple of days since mother nature finally decided to allow modelers here to paint outside.

This first shot is the Metalizer with one coat and buffed (after 10 minutes) with facial tissue, (no primer). The picture really doesn't do it justice, it looks better 1:1:

The second pic is Tamiya 'Silver Leaf' on a badly prepped Quick Change:

The third group of pictures is something I found at Hobby Lobby it's 'chrome' in a can, I wet sanded the hood, no primer, two medium wet coats of paint. The scoop was not wet sanded but primered with two mist coats of paint and two wet coats. You can see the lines/seams it developed after a couple of days of drying. :

Edited June 14, 2014 by Speedfreak

[Belugawrx]

You can get different results depending on how you apply it, and how you prep the surface before. I achieved this simulated bare-aluminum just-finished body by using metalizers in non-traditional ways. The scratches in the surface are INTENTIONAL, and represent sanding and tool marks the body builder would have left in the aluminum, before primer was applied. The real Challenger One, Mickey Thompson's land speed record car, was introduced to the press looking like this in 1959. I've done a LOT of experimenting with the stuff.

I also have to recommend primering, IF you know how to shoot it slick with no orange peel. It dramatically improves coverage, and insures you won't buff through high spots. The wheels on this car were molded in dark blue, primered slick, and shot with metallizer and buffed. They have NO orange peel and look exactly like die-cast alloy parts.

Watched the build

Love the Car

Cheers Bill

I am in the same boat with Metallizers (have not used them yet)

Thnx Guys for the input

[Ace-Garageguy]

Wow Gene...that Krylon "chrome" is definitely worth some more experimentation. Thanks for the heads-up on that.

[Speedfreak]

LOL, no kidding man, I think it works great, and I'm not the best painter. $5.99 for 8oz not bad, and with coupon even less!

And Bill, it's gotta be lacquer 'cause it dries really quick, re-coat in 10 minutes. And the can says if the nozzle gets clogged clean with lacquer thinner, no other clues as to what it is.

Edited June 15, 2014 by Speedfreak

[Cato]

Gene-can you handle the Krylon after a days drying without smearing?

[Speedfreak]

I don't know, let me go check,.........Cato, I just rubbed lightly on the scoop with my finger for 15 seconds or so, no smearing, seems solid.

[Cato]

I don't know, let me go check,.........Cato, I just rubbed lightly on the scoop with my finger for 15 seconds or so, no smearing, seems solid.

Thanks for the follow through-that's an important point.

[Speedfreak]

Yes it is. That stuff's as dry as an old bone. That hood an scoop are from a body that was in an old parts box a friend gave me, I'm gonna paint the whole car that color and see if I can't get a whole car out of it. A lot of the parts for it are in the box!