Where to get PreThinned Acrylic paint for my airbrush?

[jpedersm]

I just picked up an airbrush yesterday to start working on the Model my wife got me a month ago. I was just going to use the enamel testor stuff, but after some research I might want to use some acrylic paint instead. Since I am new at this it would be awesome if there was a place (online) that offered acrylic paint that was already pre-thinned, so I wont have to worry about if I did it right or not. Also if I use acrylic paint what will water be alright to clean between colors and after painting?

[my80malibu]

Michaels craft store could be a good start.Tamiya acrylic paints are easy for beginning use but most likely not pre thinned

[jpedersm]

That's where I was before I post this message. They had allot of enamels and some acrylic paints. Before going there I was watching a video on YouTube and this dude stated he buys his paints pre-thinned. Now I don't remember what I was watching. Also do you guys prime your model before painting, or just specific parts?

Edited August 3, 2014 by jpedersm

[my66s55]

I would suggest that if you want to learn how to paint models with acrylics, you view Chapman's utube vidios on the subject. He has it down and can show you how to do it. This is one of his posts in on this board. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=86040. I use acrylics with great success. It's a learning process.

[my80malibu]

Yes I prime before paint, it assists with spotting problem areas needing repair.I have used Autoair colors by Createx both with,and without reducing.and it sprayed just fine.what is your concern about thinning/reducing?

[jpedersm]

My concern will be not putting to much in or adding to much. Also when spraying how do you guys determine on when to stop and let it dry for the next coat?

[LDO]

Some people decant model spray paint into an airbrush paint jar. It's already thinned. Tamiya have lots of colors, but of course you could mix custom shades, too.

There's a tutorial video on this at Hyper scale.com by Brett Green. He uses a cut down flexible straw held onto the can with poster adhesive. He puts Saran Wrap over the jar and pokes a small hole in it, to minimize wasted paint. After decanting, let the paint sit with the lid loose on the jar so the propellant will come out of it. This works well for many modelers. You may wish to mail order paints from another source, but decanting Tamiya lacquer is a great intro, and you don't have to wait for mail order (if your LHS has a good selection of spray paint). Yes, I am biased towards Tamiya spray lacquer.

[my80malibu]

My concern will be not putting to much in or adding to much. Also when spraying how do you guys determine on when to stop and let it dry for the next coat?

A suggestion for this is to start out Spraying on some paper first, to get a feel for the AB. Add a little bit of reducer, Usually no more than 50/50 mix and start spraying. What type of AB did you get?

[Agent G]

Model Master Acrylics are pretty thin from the bottle.

Trouble is, by not learning all the aspects of the wonderful world of airbrushing, especially the proper thinning of paints, you might as well stay with rattle cans.

Gabriel has the best advice, get some paint, get some reducer,then spray away at a piece of paper.

G

[Jon Haigwood]

I use AutoAir Colors made by Createx I thin it with distiled water.I can use it over any primer and clear it with any clear.

Ican't wait to try Future on it.

Reducing or thinning paint for use in your airbrush

The general rule of thumb with most Acrylic Colors is reducing it with distilled water until it flows like milk. Please understand here that it depends on how much air pressure you are running and the type of airbrush you are using. A lot of things come into play when finding just the right consistency of the airbrush paint you are using to atomize correctly. The type of airbrush you are using, needle and fluid nozzle size and the air pressure you are using all come into play.

[CJ1971]

The best paint jobs come from the best prepared bodies/parts. It's like a 5 course dinner... Takes longer to prep' than to cook... But tastes incredible... ??

No models ( bodies ) are perfect. Most Japanese, Fujimi/Tamiya & Aoshima kits are close & Revell, AMT/RC2/MPC kits need more prep' work, but at some stage they all need attention to sand away mold/seam lines, high/low spots etc. Do this first then prime... Always prime! ? Priming allows you to see imperfections & gives the colour paint something to stick to.

As for pre-thinned paints... As some guys have mentioned, Tamiya cans ( Lacquer ) are very good. Decant them & use through your A/B so you have better pressure control & better coverage. For engine parts/metal colours, both Alcad ( lacquer ) & Testors ( enamel ) sell bottles pre-thinned & are very good. I also believe Scale Finishes ( on-line store ) sell their paints ( acrylics ) pre-thinned & you can purchase real 1:1 factory colours ?

There is a wealth of information here, on all aspects of building, from preperation through to completion, so search around & as you've already done, just ask if you're unsure ??

Cheers Cliff

[Jon Haigwood]

this may help

http://howtoairbrush.com/reducing-airbrush-paint/

[ferrarijoe]

Createx is pretty good (If you have hobby lobby 40% coupon you can get the set with reducer pretty cheap. It is a semi gloss finish, so you have to clear, and it likes to orange peel. Vallejo makes and pre thinned airbrush paint, its the Model Air line. My Studio 27 resin Sauber is Createx Wicked White and Wicked Blue thinned with their high performance reducer, with Future as clear.

[jpedersm]

I do have a hobby lobby close. If they do createx do they give the mix ratio? My brother in-law has some enamel based paint in those tiny jars. Was going to try some of that with enamel thinner, but before doing so I was going to go to hobby lobby to see if they have lids or tubes to keep track on how much I use. Also If I could not find anything like that has anyone ever used eye drop or medicine squinges? If I do go with the enamel based paint would I use to drops of paint to one drop of thinner? And lastly sorry about the length of this he had some airbrush thinner (for testors, model master) would this work to clean the airbrush afterwards?

[ferrarijoe]

At hobby lobby go to the painters isle they have small bootleg for mixing, and piepits ( I sure I spelled that wrong droppers) I can't tell you enamel ratio I stay away from enamel. I am impatient so I don't like to wait a week or so for it to dry. Check the thinner bootleg if it says acrylic thinner don't use to clean brush after using enamel or lacquer. I use lacquer thinner from home Depot for those. You get a a gallon for price same price as little hobby brands. And ALWAYS follow lacquer thinner with airbrush cleaner and the oil lacquer thinner will eat your seals. Your best bet is it follow some of the airbrush tutorials on her or youtube.

[my80malibu]

I do have a hobby lobby close. If they do createx do they give the mix ratio? My brother in-law has some enamel based paint in those tiny jars. Was going to try some of that with enamel thinner, but before doing so I was going to go to hobby lobby to see if they have lids or tubes to keep track on how much I use. Also If I could not find anything like that has anyone ever used eye drop or medicine squinges? If I do go with the enamel based paint would I use to drops of paint to one drop of thinner? And lastly sorry about the length of this he had some airbrush thinner (for testors, model master) would this work to clean the airbrush afterwards?

Createx gives tech info on their website. if you want to use acrylics stick with that until you are comfortable with it. Jumping around to Enamels, and Lacquers isn't hard, its just confusing the Issue. If you use Createx I suggest you get the High Performance Reducer #W-500 it will make your life easier. You can clean up with Windex, or Water. they even make an Airbrush cleaner if you want to buy that. Do not Use Lacquer to clean out the paint after spraying, Because it turns the Createx Paint into a solid very quickly. Unless you enjoy rebuilding Your new Airbrush. What Type of brush did You Buy? Gravity,Siphon, or are you using the color cup?

[jpedersm]

I finally had time to watch Chapman's video last night. Instead of getting Createx at 6 dollars a bottle I might just stick with the normal paints he is using. Check the prices on the hobby lobby page and from paying 6 dollars a bottle I might be able to drop it to around 2. After 10 different paints I could save around $40!!!