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Microscale Industries Micro Mask


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The ONLY liquid mask I use anymore - Vallejo. Tried Microscale once, it stuck like paint, couldn't get it to come loose. Trashed it. This stuff works great. I haven't had any reactions yet, but I haven't used it much over paint, mainly clear plastic. From experience I can tell you that using any liquid mask over a flat paint isn't a good idea, the flat paint has too much "Grab" and the mask can be difficult to remove. Use over a gloss coat and flat coat later if necessary.

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Edited by Brett Barrow
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I've been wondering about these products for over 40 years now. Ever since I saw them advertised to model magazines back in the early 70's. I would still like to know more about. Who else has used them? How do you use them? And how do they work, overall?

Scott

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Just make your own from Elmer's glue, water, dish soap, and food coloring. Costs virtually nothing and works better than any commercial masking product I've ever tried. Definitely win-win.

Snake, would you share the ratios/proportions of each ingredient in your brew?

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From experience I can tell you that using any liquid mask over a flat paint isn't a good idea, the flat paint has too much "Grab" and the mask can be difficult to remove. Use over a gloss coat and flat coat later if necessary.

My homemade stuff works fine over flats. A second coat (for thickness) helps. If it doesn't peel right up, it will come off under warm running water most rikki-tik.

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Snake, would you share the ratios/proportions of each ingredient in your brew?

Squirt some Elmer's in something like a pill bottle or 35mm film thing. Thin it with HOT water--the hot water mixes much easier/faster than cold. Thin to whatever you want for working consistency (I like almost a gel)--it will take MUCH less water to thin the Elmer's than you'd think. If you get it too thin, just add more glue. When you get it where you want it, add in a drop or two (doesn't take much) of Dawn or another dishwashing soap (to cut surface tension, and also seems to help with easy removal). A squirt of food color (I like red) is optional--it lets you see where you're putting the stuff, and where it is when it's dry (i.e., no bare spots). Apply with an appropriately sized paintbrush, which will clean up just fine under hot running water in your kitchen sink.

Been using this stuff for years. Couldn't be simpler and I can't imagine anything working better.

Here's some of my stuff being used to mask the clear parts of an old AMT P-36 model.

AMTP3615.jpg

The dark spots on the airplane are where I've hand-brushed Future for the decal application.

Here's what the finished model looks like.

AMTP3617.jpg

Edited by Snake45
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Been using this stuff for years. Couldn't be simpler and I can't imagine anything working better.

Thanks, Snake! I've got a Fireball Roberts 57 Ford I'm going to try it on.

How do you remove it from the model after spraying your color?

Do you mix up batches ahead of time or do they solidify too quickly?

Edited by Miatatom
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Thanks, Snake! I've got a Fireball Roberts 57 Ford I'm going to try it on.

How do you remove it from the model after spraying your color?

Do you mix up batches ahead of time or do they solidify too quickly?

I just peel it off. If you're afraid of it sticking, lay a "tab" of tape on the area you're masking to give you something to get started with. But really, the stuff comes off VERY easily.

I make up a batch and when it gets low, I throw some more Elmer's in the bottle and whizz up some more. I'm still using a batch I made (in a plastic 35mm film can) over two years ago. It's still fine.

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Here's another model I used the stuff on. I airbrushed Testor Silver on the chrome trim, masked it off using my goo and a fine brush, then airbrushed it Model Master Black Chrome Trim as black primer. Then I stripped the mask off, revealing the "chrome." Worked pretty well.

56ChevMon02-vi.jpg

56ChevMon07-vi.jpg

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