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Blown03SVT

Member Since 11 Jan 2013
Offline Last Active Nov 11 2014 05:25 AM
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Topics I've Started

Correction fluid as filler?

25 July 2013 - 06:22 AM

So I was poking around on that social media website on the interwebs. I had found on the Testors page they make a suggestion of using Paper Correction Fluid as a light filler. Hmmm, something similar to Mr. Surfacer but cheaper and more accessible? Anyone use Wite Out as filler? If so which variety as thier are several, and what would you thin it with? Thanks :)


Electric Fuel Pumps

14 June 2013 - 03:30 AM

Looking for a tutorial on how to scratchbuild the old Holley Blue fuel pumps and filter assembly's, or possibly a link to a resin caster that is currently selling them. Thanks in advance!


Working with Aluminum sheet

11 June 2013 - 03:19 AM

OKay, another question for the scratch build guru's... I am looking to replicate aluminum panels found in engines bays of Pro Stock cars and am seeking a few pointers before I head down a path of uncharted territory. I have heard aluminum soda cans can be used as the building material, which I imagine is probably around .010" which would scale out a little thick but would practically be just right to the minds eye and probably as thin I can go and still have it workable.

 

How would I get the curvature out of it?

 

If not soda can I have heard using roof flashing, how thick is that approximately?

 

I  have read post about annealing and being able to cut with a xacto blade, I imagine getting it to properly fold would take bending it over the edge of a machinist rule, or should I lightly score like P.E. parts?

 

Is this all worth the hassle, should I just build with sheet styrene and use metalizer?


Fitted Roll Cage

06 June 2013 - 06:13 AM

So I've been scratch building a roll cage for a fire Fighter Mustang II Pro Stock and I am wondering how to get the roll cage to fit tighter to the body as it would in 1:1. I am having difficulty as it is impossible to get measurements from the outside with the interior tub mocked up in the body. Other methods I have tried have been bending beading wire to an approximate shape based on the window and windshield line but have not been successful. I am sure it would be easier if the doors were cut open but thats not were I was heading with this project.


Mr Surfacer

30 April 2013 - 06:30 AM

Okay, I am intrigued by this product and it's effectiveness. I can see it being possibly being useful for minor fills and seam correction, such as engine block halves or seat halves. Maybe even being used as a spot filler for say... errant marks left behind after panel scribing for deepening door lines. I know there are two types. Which would be the best all around to have on the workbench? How well does it finish down? What paint products react adversely with it? And lastly, where would be the best place to source it? Thank in advance!