Unfrigging believeable. I still cannot believe you are not part Aussie. Just awesome. The finish is brilliant, the dimensions and the look is simply stunning. I repeat my offer to sponsor your application for Australuan citizenship. Bloody unreal mate.
There are quite a few Australians I know that would tear up at the effort you put in to find the right General Motors Holden Colour for your creation. I suspect that if you ever need to visit our shores that you don't bother applying for a visa, just rock up to our embassy and show them your model. No true blue Aussie would ever knock you back from coming to our country. Australian modellers are really limited in "our" cars, having to heavily modify or scratch build our pride and joy. And here you are clearly showing us how it is done. You my friend are a truly modeller and thank you for sharing us, and reminding me of how iconic some of our cars were. You rock.
Darryl, First off thanks for the interest and the feedback. Yes I found a similar scenario when I researched and came across the link you posted. What I found most interesting is that the original one off that was built for the show was based on that Lark chassis, and then the company started to invest in designing their own chassis as you correctly point out.
The kit is such a mish mash of parts and components that I was spending so much time trying to determine the history of the car, even to the point that I contacted what remains of Excalibur automobiles to see if they would send some information. I never heard back so I plowed on.
I stumbled across an Excalibur on Flickr that I decided had the best series of photos of a single vehicle. And so my project was born.
I aim to produce a later version of the first series of Excaliburs that has been driven enough that a full restoration has been undertaken.
The story I am to show with the model is that the small block Chevy remains, but some of the bolt on components have changed. I have a picture of the original supercharger and am contemplating scratch building one, but I will wait and see.
At this stage, life got in the way and I have not had much time to get back to this kit, and am still trying to scratch build an intake manifold. Once that is done then the block can be finalized, and mounted to the chassis so I can then run the running gear, gearbox, shaft, etc.
Your point about the Corvette suspension is noted, and I think the reference car I am using as a basis has corvette components just a case of reviewing my references again.
Thanks so much for the interest and I hope to do the model justice in the long run.
Sometimes you can pick up a Resin body such as those at www.scaleautomobilia.com.au. Not in any way flogging the company, but I think they are the only ones who carry them at all. I also know of a few very talented Aussie modelers who scratch and cast their Falcons and Holdens. Sadly not a big enough interest for mainstream production but that comes with the territory. There is an Aussie car modelling website - Australian Automotive Model Builders that you can check out if you haven't already for some of the scratch building and heavy modifying of American cars into Aussie Muscle.
I had to double check the location to make sure that you weren't posing from Australia. Makes an Aussie so proud to see a holden being scratch built. I have dabbled in scratch building and my brother is nagging me for a 1/12 HX panel van sandman. I am pouring over your photo's to see how you did it. I suspect that you might be an expat, and if not, well you bloody well should apply for citizenship. You'd be a shoe in with skills like that. Have you finished it?
Bugger mate. Sorry to hear that. Worst thing that you can take from a modeller is the ability to model, especially when he can't do much else. Hope the pain can be managed with amber medicine and I hope you make a speedy recovery.
John, I've bookmerked this page and poured over the pictures and your text, and watched with amazement the clean nature of this build. I am sorry that I have not commented before now, but I am not sure what I coould ahve said that wasn't simply admiring your work. I have this kit and have got back into modelling after a long break, and hope I can turn out something about 15% as good as yours.
Please keep posting pictures of your work as I am a big big fan. Congratulations and thanks again for sharing. Kind Regards from Down Under.
More progress on the frame. Keeping the flipping thing even is a challenge, but I've blocked out the remainder of the front of the chassis, and thinned out and removed a heap of material that was just plain wrong.
While I was waiting for the fourth lot of putty to dry, I started on the intake manifold.
I am basing it on the Edelbrock manifold as below
I thought I would share how I am going to make this part as the kit part is just sh$t
So I measured out and cut a section of styrene, scored both sides to give me the flanges, and filled the gaps with stretched sprue.
Then using the image I measured out the flange pattern and created a template in post notes and attached to the side of the piece and ground and filed the shape, then repeated for the other side.
It doesn't look to bad on the engine block.
From here I will build up the detail and add it to the bottom piece of the manifold.
I've worked out the front part of the frame was both too wide and not angled enough up to the side rails, so first thing was to grind off the front of the frame, and cut it back to scale width.
Now to fill it in and blank it off like the rest of the frame.
Here is some progress shots of the chassis that I have blanked off so far.
It's taken a bit of time as the side rails had to be reduced in height and to achieve balance across both rails took time and care.
Also the curves at the back of the chassis were the wrong arc, so they too had to be carefully ground back and a steady hand and eye to make sure I kept them even as well.
So boxing in the frame has taken some effort, with some grinding of the sides of the frames down mid chassis to closer match my references, plus filling in all the location points that are for the fenders etc, that are not attached to the frame above, but below, and bolted on, not incorporated into the chassis.
Some parts of the frame required some framing first, and other thinner sections were filled in with sheet styrene, and the first of the putty was applied.
The frame once boxed in will still need some modifications and some further cross bracing etc.
Areas to be ground down to get to a more accurate profile
I have watched this thread with interest. I've previously attempted to create from scratch a 1/25 gemini and I came to the floor pan and that's where it got me, so I am looking forward to seeing what you do in the hope of being inspired to pick it up again. Thanks for sharing the approach you are taking with this topic. I'm a huge fan of toranas, especially the mount panorama killers, and they always turn heads in the street. Congratulations on your efforts so far, it looks brilliant!
Thanks guys for the encouragement, and yep microwheel, that's exactly what I am trying to do here. I did re enter the hobby with an ambitious start of scratch building an entire car. I learned very quickly that I need to consolidate some techniques, and chose a bigger scale and a "basic" kit to give me some elements to build on rather than completely from scratch.
That said, I have almost completely rebuilt the engine block so far.
I started with the view that the angle of the vee in the block was not even correct.
As you can see I had to further cut the block up into the upper and lower portions of each side, as changing the angle at the top to be steeper, left the bottom too wide to be in scale, and so I cut the lower portions off to re angle those, to get the corrected shape and angle, and still have the bottom of the block the right size so I didn't invent an oversized oil pan
Once I established that I worked out length and width of the block. This has been an education for me, that despite liking model cars, I'm not very mechanically minded, and so I first realised that the left and right banks of the block are slightly offset to allow for piston movement, etc, was a mini revelation.
Imagine my surprise when the kit engine didn't represent that offset
So then I spent a bit of time filling in the gaps, setting the right angle etc, and this is the result so far. The grey is the kit parts, the rest is my work.
And then I worked out that the front of the block, was not flat, but had a distinctive timing cover, and other aspects that I have attempted to recreate. To create the timing cover, I created the oval shape out of sheet styrene, then a circle and some inner arms to create the "peace" like symbol at the top of the cover.
I then added a couple of circles of plastic for the shaft housing and covered the whole thing in a foil, that you get at the top of "Milo" tins in Australia.It is thicker than aluminium foil, and when burnished down gently into the shape I've created it gave me the look of pressed metal, something that I couldn't recreate just with plastic, and I think the effect looks quite good.
I added some punched out hex bolt heads and added it to the front of the block, along with some details on the block include welsh plug holes - called something different in the states.
Note in the following that the left hand side of the block as you look at it has been hacked back to create the depth that I am building back up to represent that side of the block. As you can see between the two photo's I've added the fuel pump housing to the block on the left giving it that distinctive outline.
Some more images of the block so far, showing that not one dimension was close to correct on the block. But that is what I am aiming to learn how to do. In hindsight, I could have started with sheet styrene and created the block from scratch, but this has been very enjoyable to challenge myself so far.
Next I turned my attention to the water pump. As mentioned in an earlier post, my reference pictures suggest the excalibur I am basing this build on has a new higher performance water pump, and I am trying to suggest a car with attempts to remain as true to the original as practical.
Not being mechanically minded, I was told by someone who is a mechanic that water pumps do wear out, and it would be realistic to assume that the pump had to be replaced at least once, if the car was driven regularly.
So with that in mind I researched and came up with a style of pump that I think could have been put onto the car in this imagined scenario.
And here is my attempt at it. It's not finished but you can see the main structure in place.
And one of a comparison between my effort and that of the kit part.
Next up is to develop a bell housing, and gear box. However I have stopped the engine for the moment, to start on the chassis. I have no measurements of the chassis, and have relied heavily on the reference pics I have that include a number of the underside of the car.
In those images the front of the chassis has amore pronounced curve, so I cut and repositioned, glued reinforced and have started to fill in the gaps.
Further work on the chassis includes reducing the overall height of some aspects of the mid chassis, and filling the whole chassis in to suggest a boxed structure, plus some new straight cross members, to support the gear box etc.