Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Kit Basher

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Kit Basher

  1. I have always built both. I am an airplane nut as well as a car nut. I don't build aircraft to the  level of detail and accuracy that real aircraft modellers do, just shelf models. Then again, I don't build cars to the level that real car modellers do either.

    I like having an aircraft and a car going at the same time. It gives me something to do while paint/glue is drying, and I don't get confused about what parts go with what.

  2. So, I've been doing the toothpick thing. I tried shaping a toothpick to a sort of "chisel tip", and touching the nibs at an angle. I had better control after sanding a toothpick square across, leaving a flat end about 1/32", and touching straight down onto the nibs. Because I'm working on clear parts, I had to put blue tape on the back side to help me see the rivets. I still had to move the parts around quite a bit because the rivets are really only visible when the light hits them at a certain angle. The hardest part has been getting just the right amount of paint on the toothpick. Thanks to all you kind gentlemen, I may get this task accomplished, at least to my satisfaction.

    Here are some pics, what do you guys think?


    DSCN1904 (2).JPG

  3. 31 minutes ago, SfanGoch said:

    I know that the rivets are molded onto the glass, Hugh. I suggested using these because you can place them directly on the existing rivets and not have to paint the existing ones.

    Sorry, Joe. I must have misunderstood the website. I thought those rivets were for adding rivets where they did not exist, sort of like a 3D decal. Are they more like a colored decal to go on existing rivets?

  4. 2 hours ago, SfanGoch said:

    You can also try Positive Rivets from HGW Models.

    Thanks, Joe. The rivets are already there, I just need to paint them.

    I tried the toothpick method, and it seems like it is going to work. I will need to refine my technique and practice, but I might get there. Many thanks to all who chimed in to help!

    I only have to do the side windows, rear glass, and headlight covers, maybe 50 rivets. (Where is the "pulling out your hair" emoji?)

    If I succeed, I will post pics of the results. Thanks again!


  5. 2 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

    I don’t know the part you are working with, I’m assuming the background would be clear.  If the back ground was say black, you could paint it silver first, then black and then polish the black off the rivets.

    But if background is indeed clear, I like the idea of flattening the tip of a toothpick to match the rivet, then pretty much stamping the color onto the rivets.

    I would tape the windshield to something stable and as a good working height. I’d stabilize my hand against something. A guy who did hand lettering used a bean bag, or the large bag of M&Ms to rest the ball of his hand against. These are good since they take the shape of your hand.

    Good Luck! Post what worked for you!


    Thanks, Tom. Yes, the parts are clear. As far as flattening a toothpick, did I mention these nibs are tiny? I mean, they are TINY! The point of a round toothpick is bigger than those nibs. I agree with you and the others that a toothpick is probably the way to go, but I think I'm going to need a whole lot of luck!

  6. 6 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

    Another thing to remember is that it's relatively simple to remove any goofs with a little thinner.


    3 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

    NOOooooo😱 That would leave a fuzzy edge, and paint would capillary under and really make a mess.  Toothpick, sand the tip to the size of the rivets, dip in the upside-down lid of the paint, and take a deep breath and do the Ohmmmmmmm (yoga if you ever tried it).  Clean after a few dabs with paper towel.  Good luck!

    An alternate idea, if you want.  I use a .5mm mechanical pencil, and aluminum tape (for ductwork).  Retract the lead, punch the tape, click the lead out and press the little rivet into place.  If you don't like it, easy to remove.

    Thanks, everyone!

    So it sounds like there's no foolproof way to do this. (I could use foolproof, I'm a fool!) Just be careful and be prepared to clean up my mistakes. I think I would use enamel, my experience with acrylics is they dry too fast to clean up completely.

    The mechanical pencil idea is interesting, I may give that a try.

  7. 18 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

    For small details, I use what you might call a "semi dry brush" technique.

    I dip a small pointed brush in the paint and then "roll" it over a paper towel.

    The rolling serves the purpose of not only removing a good portion of the paint from the brush, but it also rolls it into a fine point.


    I can do some pretty small details this way with a fairly large brush.

    I basically use one brush for the vast majority of my detail painting and let the paint do the work, not the brush.......if that makes any sense to you. ^_^Steve

    It does make sense to me. There are a lot of cases where it's better to let the paint flow, instead of brushing it on. In this case, I might still be limited by a steady hand. There are a bunch of these rivets, I only have to slip once to cause a problem.

    I thought about masking the whole window, sanding thru the tape where the nibs are, painting the nibs, and removing the tape. Does that make sense?

  8. 10 minutes ago, Dragonhawk1066 said:

    Great job on both of those! I love the color choices as well!

    Thanks, Craig! It was almost like I had no choice, they had to be these colors.

  • Create New...