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guitarsam326

Window crazing from ca glue

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Does anyone know how or if you can remove ca glue crazing from windows, im sure theres a previous thread on this subject so if someone could point me in the right direction, that would be appreciated too, thanks in advance!

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model car mag removing ca glue from windows site:www.modelcarsmag.com

Edited by 3100 chevy

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Does anyone know how or if you can remove ca glue crazing from windows, im sure theres a previous thread on this subject so if someone could point me in the right direction, that would be appreciated too, thanks in advance!

There's no easy solution... you'll need to sand it down past the damage, and then bring back the shine through progressively finer grits.

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If you mean the frosting from the fumes, it comes right off with rubbing alcohol. At least it always has for me.

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If you mean the frosting from the fumes, it comes right off with rubbing alcohol. At least it always has for me.

Yes, the froating is what i have a problem with, ill try the alchohol, thanks!

Edited by guitarsam326

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There's no easy solution... you'll need to sand it down past the damage, and then bring back the shine through progressively finer grits.

Thank goodness he waited for an answer from an experienced modeler huh?

To me, wiping it off seems a good deal easier than your "idea" and far less likely to ruin his glass....

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You can use non-fogging CA glue which is usually labelled "Gold". It does not cause fogging or frosting on either clear or chromed parts. I get it at my LHS, and it is now the only CA glue that I use.

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"Gold" CA is manufactured by Bob Smith Industries, and he will take the name of the business he's selling to and imprint the product with the other parties' name. That's why it's so hard to identify - it could be available under dozens of names. Also, you want their Insta-Set accelerator, which is made to be used with the Gold CAs.

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Thank goodness he waited for an answer from an experienced modeler huh?

To me, wiping it off seems a good deal easier than your "idea" and far less likely to ruin his glass....

So much for my thoughts, of trying to make a replacement using a diamond ring on a crystal salad bowl. :unsure::rolleyes:

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I've been using this for a while on clear parts and windows. It dries super hard, but if you get it on paint or places you don't want it, just wipe it off with no issues or paint removal.

fc6dd22d-9940-4791-8d9c-76faa7078e66_100

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I've been using this for a while on clear parts and windows. It dries super hard, but if you get it on paint or places you don't want it, just wipe it off with no issues or paint removal.

fc6dd22d-9940-4791-8d9c-76faa7078e66_100

Ill have to try that! Thanks tp everyone for responding!

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I've been using this for a while on clear parts and windows. It dries super hard, but if you get it on paint or places you don't want it, just wipe it off with no issues or paint removal.

I read 2 reviews on Amazon, and they said that it takes closer to 15 minutes to set up, or that even after 10 minutes in clamps, the items being glued simply fell apart. Could you please add your experience as far as drying and clamping is concerned?

Edited by fseva

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Go over to the RC side of the house and get a bottle of Polyzap manufactured by Pacer/Zap. It is designed for Lexan RC bodies and canopies. It is a thick CA and takes a couple of minutes(but only a couple) to set but it won't fog clear. Also a great gap filler.

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I read 2 reviews on Amazon, and they said that it takes closer to 15 minutes to set up, or that even after 10 minutes in clamps, the items being glued simply fell apart. Could you please add your experience as far as drying and clamping is concerned?

For me, there is no hurry in the cure time when mounting and gluing the windows, but this glue is extremely strong once it sets. As far as the reviews, I'm not sure what they were applying it to, but I use it on anything that needs to be clear with no fogging of hazing. The other important aspect I like about this glue is that if you get it on a surface that has been painted, simply wipe it off with no consequences or damage to the paint. Other "super" glues don't offer that sanctuary, which is a big plus for me.

Tim

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For me, there is no hurry in the cure time when mounting and gluing the windows, but this glue is extremely strong once it sets. As far as the reviews, I'm not sure what they were applying it to, but I use it on anything that needs to be clear with no fogging of hazing. The other important aspect I like about this glue is that if you get it on a surface that has been painted, simply wipe it off with no consequences or damage to the paint. Other "super" glues don't offer that sanctuary, which is a big plus for me.

I have a supply of this glue in the pipeline. I understand it is a thick glue - how do you apply it, and do you apply it to the clear glass or the frame for the glass?

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I have a supply of this glue in the pipeline. I understand it is a thick glue - how do you apply it, and do you apply it to the clear glass or the frame for the glass?

It is thick, but I usually apply it with a toothpick or a small solid core wire or pin. It all depends on the situation, as far as where the glue get applied. Sometimes I set the glass and then glue, and other times I place glue on the frame or glass and then set it.

Tim

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It is thick, but I usually apply it with a toothpick or a small solid core wire or pin. It all depends on the situation, as far as where the glue get applied. Sometimes I set the glass and then glue, and other times I place glue on the frame or glass and then set it.

That's kind of the way I approach each instance. Sometimes, it's very easy to use one finger to hold a part in place, while applying glue with the other hand. There are times when you need some glue to be there before you place the part, and for this I have been using Pressure Sensitive Glue by Micro-Mark. The problem with this product is that if you don't be careful in how much glue you apply, after the part has been installed, if there is glue that hasn't been covered by the part, it can easily attract dust, pet hair, etc.

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I have a bottle of the Loctite G02 glue, it does work good, I will agree, the set up time does take a little bit , for me, its a set it and forget about for a little bit , and it does wipe right off, if dried, I wet a Q-tip and it comes right off. I have gone back to using Formula 560 Canopy glue.

For the Loctite G02 , I use a glue tip, the ones that you can use on Testors tube glue, I had to trim the tip on the bottle down a good amount for it to fit, but the issue and why I went back to the Canopy was the glue doesnt really settle back down in the bottle, so it clogs up the tip/ and the cap/tip that is apart of the bottle everytime.

Edited by martinfan5

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I have a supply of this glue in the pipeline. I understand it is a thick glue - how do you apply it, and do you apply it to the clear glass or the frame for the glass?

I received my bottle and am disappointed. If you use it for windows, you would definitely have to tape the window in place before applying the glue, because it's real easy to skid the window around, even when you think it's set, and then you get glue all over the visible surface. I just don't see any real advantage, when I've had such good success with Gold CA - No fogging and it's fast, because it can be accelerated (Insta-Set) without harm to the glass.

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