Hubley 1930 Duesenberg Phaeton

[Rat Roaster]

This kit is a challenge for the ADD cursed. It is the ex-Hubley 1930 Duesenberg  as produced by Ertl. When i went hunting for one i looked for the Ertl example in order to have fresher 'chrome'.

At this point, there's at least 15 hours into deburring the diecast parts, mostly with a hand grinder and various rotary files and such. Then another few hours tweaking the body halves to where they mirror each other while fitting flat into the floor/fenders unit.

Eventually it was time to glue the body halves together with JB Weld and some perforated stainless steel that was liberated from an ancient computer tower. There are 2 layers of stainless in 4 places. The body halves were JB'ed while they were pulled down into the floor/fender unit with some strapping tape.

After the JB hardened up the joints were grooved with a 1" cutoff wheel in the hand grinder and the area next to the grooves roughed up with a rotary file to ready it for some more JB as a body filler.

The JB Weld is quite a bit harder and stronger than the 2-part epoxies i have used in the past. The reputation seems deserved.

Carry on!

 

 

 

[Jantrix]

JB Weld. Good thinking.

[alan barton]

I was going to use JB Weld on my Hubley Model A's but I hadn't thought of reinforcing with mesh.  Great idea! I will also be making a point of using an automotive etch primer before I start the normal painting process as my experience customising Hot Wheels cars shows that regular hobby paints and primers chip easily.

Cheers

Alan

Cheers

Alan

[PARTSMARTY]

Once in a while i will use JB WELD on a build-it's come through when i needed it to.

[Rat Roaster]

14 hours ago, alan barton said:

 I will also be making a point of using an automotive etch primer before I start the normal painting process as my experience customising Hot Wheels cars shows that regular hobby paints and primers chip easily.

Cheers

Alan

 

Thank You for mentioning that. I'd started painting some things with self-etching primer and wasn't sure if that was the right thing to try on zinc die cast.

[philo426]

Yes I just built a Hubley 32 Chevy Coupe as well as the 1909 Model T Runabout.I used two part epoxy and Bondo spot putty 'to deal with the body seam.It did require a lot of grinding and filing to clean the metal parts up.   

Edited August 2, 2018 by philo426

[Eric Macleod]

I will look forward to watching your work on this one.  I love anything Duesenberg. 

[Phirewriter]

Looking forward to this too. My late father had all the Hubley metal kits some in duplicate since he owned Model A's for a while. Haven't considered starting any since I made a decision not to add to the project pile but do eventually want to. One of his dream cars was a Dusenberg and have a number of those kits.

[Rat Roaster]

Mini-Update here:

Painted the frame and some chassis parts. Was still filling ejector pin divots on the front brakes and those appear ready for paint now. Am pretty sure the kitchen oven is gonna be cornered into hardening the paint on this stuff. Try to keep it a secret.

Engine block needed about .020" of fill on the front of one half and a little on the rear end of the other half of the cylinder head. I mixed up some JB and put a thin bead on each mating surface of the bellhousing and transmission halves before sticking them together and running the screws in. Then the screws covered with more JB and shaved down flat with a sharp Made In USA Schrade jackknife that was a $1 yard sale find. That little knife has done a lot of dirty work over the years, even shaving down burrs on zinc die cast model cars.

Anyone who has ever played with this kit remembers what a flashfest that steering wheel was. There's gotta be close to 2 hours into cleaning this one up. But it has to be pretty, doesn't it?

Now on to the pics......

That's it for today's Mini-Update! Carry on!