How to fix clear coat issue

[DDD]

I used Testors wet look lacquer over Aztek acrylic. Most of the car came out pretty good some orange peel but there are a few spots that are rough or bumpy not sure what caused it, but can I wet sand that out? How do I sand the BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH in the window seal without cutting thru? I know you are suppose to cross sand with each grit, but how do you do that on the side of the car with a raised panel line right in the middle doesn't give you much room above and below the panel line. after sanding the rough spots out should I spray another coat of clear or just polish it out? Also How do I get smaller pictures show it doesn't take up the whole page? Thanks for all the guys that have replied to my ?'s you've helped out alot.

[Snake45]

Testor WLC sands quite nicely. Get #1000 3M and use it WET. Just get the bubbles and high points knocked down, and get it all uniformly flat, and then you can go over it again with #1500 and then polish it out. 

You might also think about recoating in WLC if you have less than three coats on. 

[DDD]

Thanks Snake, isn't 1000 grit a little harsh? When you say polish it out do you mean use 3000.4000 5000 then use Novus? or just use Novus? or just wax it? Can you wet sand with multiple grits in the same direction on side panels and small places? 

[Snake45]

Testor WLC is very tough stuff as paint goes, which is why I suggested starting with #1000 grit, especially for the relatively rough surface you're starting with. 

Here's the last WLC paint job I wet-sanded and polished out (the green one). 3 coats of WLC, 24 hours apart, then knocked down flat with #1000 wet, then polished with Wright's Silver Cream. Shiny enough for me. 

[DDD]

Nice cars! Thanks for the advice.

[High octane]

Those micro bubbles are caused by spraying too close, and I believe I read where at that distance the propellant spits out of the can and causes those bubbles. Do not spray any more clear over it. You'll have to very carefully polish out those bubbles and most likely have to mask off some of the body as not to polish through the clear and paint.

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, DDD said:

Thanks Snake, isn't 1000 grit a little harsh? When you say polish it out do you mean use 3000.4000 5000 then use Novus? or just use Novus? or just wax it? Can you wet sand with multiple grits in the same direction on side panels and small places? 

I think you're right Doug.

1000 grit is pretty course for polishing.

The coarsest grit in the Micro Mesh polishing kit is 1500 and I never use them.

As a matter of fact, I rarely start with anything coarser than the 3200 grit.

The coarser the grit you start with, the more scratches you will need to remove as you progress to finer grits

 

You will get a finer finish doing it as you suggest.

Start with 3200 if necessary.

The finer that you can get away with the better.

Then work your way down through 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000 and 12000.

This will give you a very nice finely polished surface.

Follow up with Novus polish and you're golden!

Be very careful on high points and body creases to avoid polishing through the color.

 

Yes, you can polish in the same direction with each grit.

I do it all of the time.

 

By the way, looks as if you sprayed on the clear in too heavy of a coat.

That would explain the bubbles in the clear coat where the paint pooled.

 

 

Steve

Edited July 7, 2019 by StevenGuthmiller

[DDD]

Thanks High Octane and Steven for the tips. I believe you are both right I started with a couple light coats and it seem to be going on like a frosted coat so the 3rd I tried a little heavier and looked a lot better so on the 4th coat I went  a little over board. Live and learn. At least on this site I've been getting great help any many more, well a lot more replies then the other site I was on. Thanks again to everyone that replied. 

Edited July 7, 2019 by DDD

[Snake45]

8 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

1000 grit is pretty course for polishing.

The coarsest grit in the Micro Mesh polishing kit is 1500 and I never use them.

As a matter of fact, I rarely start with anything coarser than the 3200 grit.

Steve

I don't know if 1000 grit is the same thing in the Micro Mesh system as it is in 3M WetOrDry sandpaper, but I can tell you that it would take you WEEKS of effort with 3M #2000 to get orange peel in Testor WLC knocked down. I've never found much less used any sandpaper finer than #2000, which doesn't feel much "grittier" than common construction paper. 

I've often wondered if Micro Mesh's numbers are 10x those of regular sandpapers. 

[Claude Thibodeau]

Hi!

Had that type of "bubble strings" when I used WLC in too heavy a coat... out of lazynes, I guess, hoping to have it flow smoother and therefore... not have to spend so much time to get it ultra smooth via polishing! The first coat tries to gas out tru the top coat, and that locks the bubbles in. Humid weather often accentuates that condition. 

You CAN get rid of them, but only tru sanding, as outined by other members above. But the one you have along the roof drip molding are tricky to sand. I prevailed in similar circumstances by wet sanding with a folded 400 grit square of HIGH QUALITY automotive paper. Those usually have som flex in the bonding agent, and the fold won't get jagged, which would only agravate the spot by carving scratches over the bubbles. Fold the paper TWICE on itself, therefore the "radius" of the fold will be OK to "carve" tru the string of bubbles. 

After sanding and letting it dry a couple of days, you will need to fill the micro-craters (sanded bubbles) with one more coat of WLC. I doubt you will get rid of them tru sanding and polishing alone, but you may if you have extreme patience, a stedy hand, and good nerves!

I had this problem on the Willys in the picture, at the junction of the hood side and front fender. As you can tell, it's gone. 

Good luck! 

CT

 

[StevenGuthmiller]

5 hours ago, Snake45 said:

I don't know if 1000 grit is the same thing in the Micro Mesh system as it is in 3M WetOrDry sandpaper, but I can tell you that it would take you WEEKS of effort with 3M #2000 to get orange peel in Testor WLC knocked down. I've never found much less used any sandpaper finer than #2000, which doesn't feel much "grittier" than common construction paper. 

I've often wondered if Micro Mesh's numbers are 10x those of regular sandpapers. 

Entirely possible Snake.

I don't use any sand paper for polishing, so I never really thought about it.

 

Steve

[DDD]

Before I go any further, I wet sanded ( above the door handle) and there is still a little white texture and afraid to keep sanding as you see I already cut thru the paint So I need to repair that any thoughts? the top of the car (pic )do I sand it smooth ( without any shinny spots) all with the 1st grit and then continue on with the different grits after it's smooth or start with the 1st grit and continue on thru the grits until it's smooth? after the paint repair job of the cutting thru should I shoot another coat of clear on the whole body? then re-sand? or what? Thanks again for all the help.

 

 

[Snake45]

Your top is nowhere near ready to start polishing. The surface needs to be knocked down smooth and flat before polishing can begin. Oh, you CAN polish it now, but you'll just end up with shiny orange peel. 

If those white spots on the side are plastic and not glare, you've already cut through the paint. Your best plan now would be to strip and start from scratch. The WLC will come right off in 92% rubbing alcohol, which will probably take off your acrylic paint, too. Call it a learning experience. Most of us here have been down this road--or WILL, sooner or later. 

Since you need to strip anyway, why not experiment on that top? Keep sanding on half of it till it looks uniformly flat, and then polish the whole thing out, and you will see exactly what I mean. 

[DDD]

Hey Snake I replied to both of my posts. NO! Keep the tips coming.