Paint prep on high gloss molded plastic

[Yahshu]

I've got an AMT GT 350 Mustang donor for my Eleanor, problem is the the kit plastic is molded in a real high gloss red. Whats the best why to prep this so the paint will stick, I don't really want to have to sand each & every part if I don't have to. Thank you in advance for your tips & tricks.

[martinfan5]

All you need to do is just go over the body with 800 grit paper , then primer, you dont have to sand, but it will help the primer stick much better, but that is up to you

Edited May 8, 2013 by martinfan5

[Yahshu]

My apologises, I should have been a bit more specific, The Eleanor body is resin, so no problem there, the problem is with the donor items, engine, interior, chassis etc

[Ace-Garageguy]

I've researched this myself over the past couple of years, looked at the results under magnification and tested paint adhesion. Thoroughly scrub with a toothbrush, hot water and an abrasive cleanser like Comet or BonAmi. Guaranteed and pretty quick. Removes any molding die release lubricant as well.

[Miatatom]

I broke out a Ford GT40 and copied Bills' recommendation of the tooth brush, hot water and cleanser. The body had a dull finish and looks like it's ready for primer. Highly recommended method!

[LoneWolf15]

Eddie Fluck and several of the other top resin casters counsel a 24 hr soak in Bleche White . I've followed their advice and never had any problems .

[CadillacPat]

Pick up some ScotchBrite Pads.

I use the Green and it gets down into tiny crevices.

Then just wash with a toothbrush, soap and water.

CadillacPat

[Guest G Holding]

Eddie Fluck and several of the other top resin casters counsel a 24 hr soak in Bleche White . I've followed their advice and never had any problems .

Bleche white has been changed....is it the same?

[LoneWolf15]

Bleche white has been changed....is it the same?

Sure is ! It'll strip enamel paint too . Found that out the hard way ! Lmao !

[Ace-Garageguy]

My apologises, I should have been a bit more specific, The Eleanor body is resin, so no problem there, the problem is with the donor items, engine, interior, chassis etc

Eddie Fluck and several of the other top resin casters counsel a 24 hr soak in Bleche White . I've followed their advice and never had any problems .

Just to clarify, the question was about scuffing the styrene KIT parts, not the resin body.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Pick up some ScotchBrite Pads.

I use the Green and it gets down into tiny crevices.

Then just wash with a toothbrush, soap and water.

CadillacPat

While Scotchbrite WILL scuff a surface nicely, I've looked carefully at the results of using BOTH Scotchbrite AND Comet under magnification. For intricately detailed and convoluted parts like engines, etc, Scotchbrite simply cannot get in all the crevices. It is physically impossible.

[Brett Barrow]

I'll second (or third?) the powered cleanser. I use "Bar Keeper's Friend". I scrub everything but the clear and chrome with that stuff.

[CadillacPat]

While Scotchbrite WILL scuff a surface nicely, I've looked carefully at the results of using BOTH Scotchbrite AND Comet under magnification. For intricately detailed and convoluted parts like engines, etc, Scotchbrite simply cannot get in all the crevices. It is physically impossible.

Bill you would need a microscope to detect any molecule sized gaps left when using ScotchBrite on plastic.

Just as I'm sure the same tiny gaps would show up after brushing with Ajax.

ScotchBrite works fine for recessed and molded areas. Just squeeze and twist.

It's what most AirBrushers use for painting Plastic.

Adhesion is not problematic.

There are different colored gauges of ScotchBrite, I use the green.

CadillacPat

[Blown03SVT]

I am assuming this would boil down to using what you like or prefer and using it often. Both sounds like they would do the trick.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Bill you would need a microscope to detect any molecule sized gaps left when using ScotchBrite on plastic.

Just as I'm sure the same tiny gaps would show up after brushing with Ajax.

ScotchBrite works fine for recessed and molded areas. Just squeeze and twist.

It's what most AirBrushers use for painting Plastic.

Adhesion is not problematic.

There are different colored gauges of ScotchBrite, I use the green.

CadillacPat

No point arguing. I'm going to have to go with what I've seen with my own highly critical eyes, interpreted by my critical-thinking mind, rather than do what "most AirBrushers use for painting Plastic". If you're happy with your method, that's really all that counts.