Clear coat problem

[schwack]

So I finally got down the black I wanted for the body of this Subaru I'm building, and I laid down the clear coat earlier today, placing the body in the dehydrator like I always have to accelerate drying.

I took the body out and on inspection I noticed some faint milky white lines where it looks like the clear coat pooled and dried. I must have used too much clear coat. Is there some way to re-do the clear coat without having to sand yet again and paint another layer? I really don't want the paint coats any thicker, it already has had 5 wet coats (sanding in between). Any suggestions?

[Casey]

You can sand it flat/even using a sanding block and/or careful sanding, as long as the clear is thick enough so you don't sand through. I would block sand it flat/even, even if that means burning through the clear in a spot or two, and having to re-spray one more clear coat. A polishing kit is your friend, and a great equalizer.

[schwack]

Casey,

I always thought a polishing kit was used after the clear coat? Like clear coat shot, then wax, and polish. Am I misunderstanding? Also for sanding the clear coat, is there a grit you would suggest? 1200? 2000?

[Miatatom]

Wax comes last.

[Mike Kucaba]

I don't know if you painted lacquer or enamel or acrylic, but I prefer with lacquer to not put it in a dehydrator right away. Give lacquer an bit to air out. Lacquer dries fast & hard without forced drying anyway. If it is enamel or acrylic it can probably go in right away.

[Casey]

Casey,

I always thought a polishing kit was used after the clear coat? Like clear coat shot, then wax, and polish. Am I misunderstanding? Also for sanding the clear coat, is there a grit you would suggest? 1200? 2000?

It can be used anytime, but most people will use the sanding films after the final finish is applied and has dried, regardless if it's a color or clear coat. A polishing kit is basically small sheets of sanding grit attached to a cloth-like backing, which allows for some flex and conformity to curves and no-flat surfaces.

You want to start leveling or evening out any imperfections with 4000 grit paper, see how well it works to remove the imperfection, then use a coarser grit if necessary. You don't want to start with too coarse a grit, or you'll make even more work for your self, so err on the conservative side when selecting your the first piece of sanding mesh/paper. You'll probably only need to even out the area with the sag/run, and not the entire body, so start fine, go coarser as needed, and progress slowly. Try using your fingertips to feel how the surface is leveling out, instead of relying on your eyes, too, and use a a foam sanding block if the area you're sanding is semi-flat in one plane.

[schwack]

Thanks for all of this guys, and thank you Casey. All of this information is very helpful.

[schwack]

I don't know if you painted lacquer or enamel or acrylic, but I prefer with lacquer to not put it in a dehydrator right away. Give lacquer an bit to air out. Lacquer dries fast & hard without forced drying anyway. If it is enamel or acrylic it can probably go in right away.

Mike, I had not heard that. I've been primarily using lacquer spray. When you say a bit to air out? 30 minutes or a couple hours? Thanks for the tips!

[Mike Kucaba]

Mike, I had not heard that. I've been primarily using lacquer spray. When you say a bit to air out? 30 minutes or a couple hours? Thanks for the tips!

Unfortunately, it depends what the temperature is where you're painting. Here in AZ in the winter months I could probably put the freshly painted model in about a few hours after spraying. In the summer months, my patio is probably 100 degrees F. so I find my self bringing the model in the air-conditioned house.