Der Bugmeister

I found a good mesh material at my LHS which I think is going to work out nicely. Cost less than an eighth of stuff that Bill suggested (granted that more expensive stuff looks really good) I'll post some pics once I get it assembled.

Off to a great start, I like the mods. I'm building the same kit right now, but as a more traditional rod. Are you using the hinges as supplied, or building slicker ones?

That stuff looks good, but a bit pricey for the level of detail on this project. Any idea on the dimension of the sheet they sell? I couldn't see any info on that...

Building a '29 Ford, and I'm not totally thrilled with the effect of the moulded radiator grill. What sort of screening or other material have you found to be good for this application?

@ Del - I debated that, Del, but I'm not getting that picky with this build. It's only my second since getting back into the hobby and I'm trying to consolidate some other new techniques during this one...so I'll be using the ones in the kit this time around. @ HAK - thanks! @ Bryan - thanks for the pics. I do need to get more clips and clamps like that. I think the double sided tape/chopstick route will work best for the doors and hood panels. Still looking for suggestions on painting before or after assembly!

Thanks, Bryan. I saw the Lone Wolf airbrushing primer video where he uses pipe nipples (I have some now) for some parts, and for smaller parts he just stuck them all on a strip of tape. I think for something like the doors, that could lead to paint buildup on the edges where it would collect in the corner formed by the tape and the part...I'll have to look for some chopsticks now too!

Current project, moving along slowly, is this '29 Ford pickup. Although the kit name calls it a Rat Rod, it can also be built as a stock ride or a period style hotrod. I'm not building this as a rat... Current state: Sprayed with Krylon Black and Brown on top of black primer, only one coat so far. Needs some wet sanding before the next coat but I'm going to catch the rest of the parts up first. The final stance will have more rake to it, but I'll be using these wheels (from the kit) Now for a question about how to approach painting of smaller bits...the doors and engine cover sections are hinged (see the photo of the assembly instructions). I aim to have them articulating, and they require painting on both sides. What is the best method here? Assemble then paint, or paint then assemble? If assembling first, how do you protect against the paint locking it all together? If painting first, what glue do you use to assemble? CA, or scrape down to plastic and use Testors Orange tube? For painting both sides, I assume the best method would be sticking them on tape and painting one side at a time, allowing the paint to cure before flipping. Would you start with the side less viewed, or the most visible side?

Check this one out. It was originally intended for inventorying tools and workshop items, but seems pretty adaptable. http://www.thegaragegazette.com/index.php?topic=11.msg19#msg19

That thought had crossed my mind as well, hearing it from someone else is even better! I think I'll give that a try tonight and see how it works out. Should have my airbrush setup in another month, but aiming to have this build done and shelved by then.

Kind of reminds me of a cross between a VW Karmann Ghia and an early Porsche 356.

"Real" chrome look seems to lie somewhere between kit chrome and spray on. That Spazstix stuff looks promising, but might be a minor challenge getting it here in Canada without paying an arm and a leg for it...but I've got some ideas ;-) Yes, it's the Revell 29 Pickup.

Two questions here...first is dealing with chrome parts that have mold lines in visible locations. The pic is the rear suspension spring from Revell's 29 Rat Rod, and it's one of several parts that have lines in the most irritating spots. If I sand off the line, then I obviously have to do something to patch up the chrome. I don't have an airbrush yet, so any solution calling for one is out. I would prefer to keep the chrome, but not if I have to put up with the line. Any suggestions, or am I doomed to strip the chrome, sand the line and settle for flashy brush on paint? Second question is for the underside of the same truck, the area in question is in the red box. The holes show through to the underside of the seats...I'm pretty sure the original truck had a little more there, so I'm planning on cutting a piece of sheet styrene to cover that area. Does anyone have any photos of what this area should look like?

Real as it gets...

I just used some "original" Fantastik and it worked great. Chrome was mostly gone in 15-20 minutes, all the parts were clean within 45 minutes. Not as corrosive or difficult to handle as brake fluid or Purple especially living in an apartment. The "subject" was a gluebombed all chrome engine kit.

Front wheels turned, steering wheel straight ahead!

Thanks, Casey...more chat than photos in that thread unfortunately. I'm curious to see what sort of gaps people had to deal with on the floorboard areas and such.

Anybody have photos of the Revell 29 Ford Rat Rod 3 in 1 truck assembled?

I've just recently got back into building models after taking a break for over 17 years. I had a lot to relearn, and even more to learn as supplies/tools improved and the introduction of the internet (didn't have it when I stopped building!!!) has made me aware of many new to me techniques. There are probably other good websites out there, but I've probably learned more in the Tips and Tricks section here, and reading the various build threads, than I have everywhere else combined so far. Take some time to crawl through this forum, there's a treasure trove of knowledge here and a lot of top notch builders ready to share their techniques. You're off to a good start, that Charger looks great.

In other words, there is no drying time between the coats?

Thanks to Jon for bumping this, as it would have taken me a lot longer to stumble across it otherwise. Even more so, a big thanks to Bill for taking the time to compile this. A lot of fantastic tips here which I'm now planning to apply to my current builds.

I see reference all the time to X number coats of paint, but I'm curious as to what is actually considered a "coat". When doing house painting for example, one application regardless of how many times the roller passes over the area is a "coat". I've seen Don's video on airbrushing (nicely done and highly informative), but still I don't think he said what a coat was. In one painting session, he certainly covered the same areas multiple times, but there was no flashing in between. Is that session considered a coat, or is each pass of the airbrush over that area of the body during a single painting session a coat?

The Rods are wise!

Don't have a real workbench right now, so this nice table has to fill in. Sitting on it today are a Revell 1/16th Beetle and Monogram 1/24th 1929 3 in 1 Rat Rod. Plan for the '29 is a classic rod look, pretty much out of the box with some minor detailing but no body mods planned.

These photos show how visible the seam along the cylinders will be when the car is assembled...so I'm going to have to clean that up. The other photos show the casting lines on the body for those interested.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=60796