krow113

Wicked. And that's a tough kit too.

No worries John. The kit suffers from some detail quirks. I love all these old kits though, we wouldn't have as many cool subjects without them. I cant remember any real probs , the forks are completely weird , but you will solve that prolly the same way I did, replicating the sheet metal covers done by the first customizers. I have over 500 pix of my piece , lemme know if ya need help, I'll be perched , watching. Reviewing my pix , I can offer one tip. The rear wheel is a 'sprung huib' , lacking in some detail. To deal with the hub centerline ,a section of an old Humbrol tin works splendidly. The front hub seam can be dealt with using easily available aluminum tubing. Good Luck!

Fun kit to get through. I used HOK Ultra Mini flake to good effect on my example.

Nice. https://www.facebook.com/Custom-Motorcycle-Modeler-Page-766321873448007/timeline/?ref=aymt_homepage_panel

Always taking a chance putting silicone and plastic together when painting will be done. Not something I would recommend. You could use Parafilm between the two ,stretched tight over the emblems. Or a mould release agent , usually sprayed on. Try the film and press clay on the emblems, then use the clay form to cast your emblems. Many ways to get to the desired result. Yaya there is no pressing need to fully equip a casting scenario , 'push moulds' as described here will work for the single sided window cranks desired. I found that after some simple casting excursions I wanted more!

If ya look at the top of the pressure cooker , you will see a DeVilbis air valve. I found that after vacuuming the poured resin, I can open that and air rushing in creates the pressure needed to push resin into the mould. A benefit I found out by accident! Vacuum is a cool 'condition' , you would be surprised how much air will come out of a glass of water!

Parts are looking good! If you get more into the casting thing try and find a vacuum pump if possible. I used one from my neon manufacturing days to make this for our IPMS club's use. That and an old pressure cooker work great for small runs: This opens up the opportunity to upgrade the whole works , as it will allow the vacuuming of air from the mould silicone prior to pouring , the resin prior to pouring and the final pour in the mould as well. The window allows viewing the de-guassing of all the materials involved.

With the D/U set as well:

How would I lobby to see if a motorcycle category can be created on this forum? I would argue that some of the best bikes on the net are lumped in a "all the rest" category on this forum. I would also argue there is no forum I can find that I would like to put my m/c stuff on. The work here is excellent , I think that contributing is something I would like to do, just not in "all the rest". Hope this does not sound too pompous , its just that most m/c model forums are dominated by the sport bike genre and like in real life they dont get along with HD guys! Other forums have guys posing their dollys with the bikes and I dont play with dolls , I play with models. If this is possible I would immediately put my hillclimber build on the new category. This is an XR 750 based hillclimber but you get the idea: Thanks to the mods and forum members for their consideration on this matter. My contributions to this forum lately: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=82967 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=67014&page=17

Later to this place.

Later to this forum , my mistake thought it might be cool.

Later

Later.

No worries. Lots of info on the links. Its pretty easy to do , keeping soldering tips and the area ,parts etc clean is a good idea. Also I clean with lacquer thinner , right after it evaporates flux , then heat/solder.

Later.

Excellent. The more Harley's on model forums the better!

]

Later to this forum.

Ha ! They told me when I started: "Be careful what you wish for!" Did turn out to be well worth it , worked on all kinds of Harleys , it has a world wide reputation as one of the best frame straightening shps .I saw some unreal work on wrecked frames. Same bike outside the rear of the shop:

Yup. Wait a few years they will all be illegal. Harley did it on a Sportster model a few years ago but it did prove to be problematic. Here is me in '02 sitting on the chopper I built in the custom bike shop I worked in for over 15 years: ...and the finished bike: Handmade frame ,pipes , rail , many stainless parts , rode the hell out of it for 5 years and sold it for 40K , helluva bike.

Never heard of a '72' with regard to a Sportster, got any pix to clarify? Thank you ,Steve Never mind I googled it: http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_CA/Motorcycles/seventy-two.html Still the bikes in the previous shot all have side tail lights ,these are pretty much illegal in todays world. Why? The plate is not visible from all angles at the rear of the bike, makes it hard for the po-lice robot licence plate readers to see. Those silly 'safety pin' seat springs are a dead giveaway its not a 'factory' bike as well. I love the metalflake though! On a trivia note I dont recall any Sportster model kits , other than the Revell "Then came Bronson" kit from the '70's. Thank you ,Steve

Always good to see a new Harley kit . The new kit would have to be all new as the two Fatboy's , Evo and Twin Cam , share very little in the way of parts. Being a Harley mechanic and wrenching on both bikes gives me a little 'hands on' knowledge. Here's a little fun: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234945364-new-tamiya-big-bike/ I do believe the green bike is a Sportster having the rear drive belt on the right side of the bike, but I dont think any of those are factory bikes . Perhaps you could clarify what '72' means?

Thanks John, Vote in the Motocycle Group Build here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234932101-gallery/?mode=show Lots of great m/c models in the build.

Thanks Dave. I have over 200 pix of the build. One thing I did that was a good idea was to shave of the 'dams' on the lower rear of both the fenders, way smoother look to it after that mod: