MonoPed

Welcome aboard! Certified Model Car Junkies are always welcome

Is that the old Monogram kit? Either way, that is one slick build!!

Thanx guys, Now comes the tedious part of getting the shape just right, and getting the slats just right. No looking back now, this part of the build is "make or break"... Brian

Nice build, the new headers look very realistic!

The last time the Fisher Model & Pattern 1970 Ferrari 512s Coda Lunga curbside was shown, I was still too chicken to cut the openings in the fenders for the vents needed to replicate s/n 1038, driven by Jacky Ickx and Peter Schetty at the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1970. Well, today I decided to have at it, and cut it up. I am surprised at the thickness of the body, but this might be a good thing, since it will allow more surface area to attach the slats. Still have to finesse the shape a little more, then it's on to making and installing the slats.

Excellent work - very clean build!

Nice build!! Nice paintwork too!

Nice work Billy!! It's been fun to watch your building progress to where it is now - keep it up!

That's gonna look sweet!

Welcome Izzy!

Nice work Mal!

Mal, Glad to have ya here!

Mal, Glad to have ya here!

Way cool! what kit is that?

Here's mine: 1929 Ford Woody, built from the Rat Rod '29 pickup kit and a whole lotta basswood: 1932 Ford 3 Window: 1932 Ford 5 Window parts box special: 1932 Ford Sedan, Perry's Resin body: 1940 Ford Standard Coupe:

Welcome to the site! The Good Guys '32 coupe is a sweet little kit, great to get back in the game with, so to speak. Everyone has their own way to add plug wires, and hopefully some others will post theirs. Here's what I do: I use 30awg "wrapping wire" from Radio Shack. It's a single strand, jacketed wire that looks "right" for 1:24 and 1:25 scale. It comes in red, white, and blue (God bless the USA!), and the jacket can be painted if handled lightly. For the plug boots, I strip the jacket from a slightly bigger wire and cut to short lengths. To drill the holes in the distributor, coil and cylinder heads, I use a #75 drill bit in a pin vise. A small drop of CA (super glue) holds the wires in place. First, make sure the distributor posts are large enough to drill without splitting them. If not, file them down a bit so you have enogh material to drill into. Drill the holes approximately 2-3mm or 3/32" deep. Attach the heads to the block, and drill the holes where the plugs would be. You may want to go ahead and drill through the block so you have some "wiggle room" to get the length of the wires right. Cut eight lengths of wire, a little longer than needed to reach the cylinder furthest away from the dist, then attach them to the dist. If you are going to add boots, then make eight of them, and slip them over the wires. Start running the wires to each cylinder, making them look as natural as possible. Cut the wires a little longer than needed, and isnert them into the plug holes. Once you have the length correct, glue the wire in place, and slide the boot in place. Here's a flathead I did using this method: Hope this helps, Brian

White, silver or gold

Nice!! I have the HRM transkit and a Fujimi spyder kit, gonna build #5373, the Begian Ecurie Francorchamps entry that finished eigth in the '72 LeMans 24hrs. Be sure to post pics when finished! Brian

Ya done good Billy!!

You could try an A/C freon can tap, the type that clamps around the can and pierces it in the side. Just make sure the hose is secured to a container big enough to hold all the paint. Other than that, I don't see a safe way of draining that can.

I like it!

Small update for small progress.....in a small modelling slump. The kit comes with both resin and photo-etch spoilers, the rear being three piece. Since there is little surface area to attach these to the car, I feel they will be very easily broken off the finished model. To hopefully remedy this, I made a one piece rear spoiler from .020" sheet styrene. There is a good amount of play in the fit of the chassis to the body, so I made a pair of locating/attachment points by removing one side of some styrene square tubing. Also narrowed the wheel track a bit more to get the wheels under the fender edges. Still haven't cut the vents.... :oops:

Don't know how I missed this when first posted, this is just too cool... That Offy four-popper is awesome!

That came out nice!!

Welcome aboard Mike. Love that Jeep!