Aeroteto

I found this, hope it helps.

The calendar on that cartoon is WRONG !! That calendar is Aztec. Let me show you the differences:

I just go to Auto Zone, and buy the chrome spray can, over the bars code is CS-101 writing. Next to the chrome cans are Stainless Steel and Gold, looks the same line of metalizers. Thanx for the tip!

Here in Mexico, Renault is selling their new cars line saying Get a Renault now, start paying until February, if the world is destroyed before that, your Renault its free!

That's a wrong translation, it's not the end of the world, it's the end of an era, i's the end and restart of the Mayan calendar. Wait a minute, YES it's the end of the world, but Mexico will remains apocalypsis, save your kits!! Send them to me!!

I found Duplicolor stanless steel and chrome spray cans at Auto Zone. Its the same thing?

I'm thinking the small coils inside some cheap pens may works fine. Just cut them to size with a small cut off disk in a Dremel.

Normally I avoid wood for stir. Wood absobs moisture then transfer to your paint. In small quantities you can't notice, but if you store your paint for some after stirring with wood it may turn into a blob, specially if done in high humidity conditions. So why run risk, use metal for stirring. Cheers.

AK Interactive sells a good product to wheater in white. Look in the net for invernal cammo in order to get some useful tips, usually are done in tanks, but it may works for you. If you want some texture you can use marble podwer. Hope this helps.

I know it shouldn't be done, but I have to ask. Any of you have success applying touch up lacquer, the one in nail polish style bottle airbrushed over 1/4 oz Testors enamel? If so, is there a special trick? TIA.

Thanks for the warm welcome guys! Yes Greg, it's me on that cockpit. I love to build arcraf models, but now rediscover scale car modeling. I think it's too late, the Merc it's on the mail now. Dr Cranky I hope get your craziness level one day!

For the last ten years I build only 1/48 aircraft models, and only two car models. A few months ago I received a Revell's '37 Ford convertible as a gift, I wasn't shure if I should kiss him or beat him. The kit was laying at the bottom of the stash. I'm trying to build it now, and after looking in this forum, a couple more kits are in the mail heading my home. It's amazing how addictive build scale cars can be. Next project it's gonna be the new Revell's Merc '49. I have to thanks to all of you who post great wip, tips and techniques. Thanks for sharing, and I hope to learn and have a lot of fun. Hector Lopez.

Thanks for your words guys. The body is glued to the fenders, but I'm following the instruction sheet, I have no idea of the interior fiting problems to come. I made a dry fitting try, and find no big problems, but Murphy is always near my bench. I sand the underside smooth because, there are too many big raised ejector pin marks, so keeping the texture is near impossible. Thank you for taking the time for visiting this WIP, any advise is always welcome, if they comes before I made mistakes is more than appreciated.

Yes Wayne, looks like the Revel kits are a real challenge, but have very nice subjects. Ok. I glued the splash panes, the side panels and the upper body to the lower body. Almost nothing fits well in this kit. Specially the rear of the upper body, it leaves a very notorius gap. I use basic tamiya putty to work this out. due to the bad fit the rear edges doesn´t line up well, so I add a thinplastic strip. I glue it with super glue and then sand it to get the proper contour.

Thanks guys! I have some troubles with this model, the big parts have many, many ejector pin marks, and the small parts have lots of flash and even some ejector pin marks. I never see so many ejector pin marks in a small area on any aircraft model. I have to fill and sand too much, my dear scale car modellers you have all my respect!! did I mention that this kit have too many ejector pin marks? Even this small area will be visible. So sanding and cleaning is in order. Under the body there are many ejector pin marks and flash. I have to sand a lot here. Under the hood there are more work to do. I cut the gas tank to make the cleaning and paint work more easier. There are some notches that need to be filled, because I´m not planing to use the bumpers.

thanks a lot guys! I love that Merc, wich kit brand do you recommend to build this beauty? tia.

Well I mostly build aircraft, so I can´t identify all cars I see in this forum. I know this is a dumb question but: Wich is the maroon car that appears on the upper left image on the Model Cars Magazine logo?

beautiful car models, nice color selection. Congrats!

Any color you like but, please shiney.

Thanks you're very kind. I'm still sanding the body and figuring the color scheme.

She have 50 000 miles. And the original radio still works !!

Here are a few pics I take today.

In your opinion, wich is the best On-line hobby shop for car modelers?

For removing Chrome I like the most brutal option, ferric chloride ! I use the one used for make circuit boards, you can get it at Radio Shack. Just inmerse the piece and its done, no waiting, no matter how old or thick is the chrome, it´s gone right away. And don´t hurts the plastic, but leaves the laquer coat. Just be sure to handle the pieces with plastic tools, any metal will be attacked by the acid. Wear safety goggles and gloves. Not earth friendly but very effective.

the engine on the photo of the real one, is an in line slant six, the engine in the kit looks like a V-8. I have a restored 80 Volare, if you like I´ll post some photos of it. By the way, where can I get a kit of this car?