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Blown03SVT

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Posts posted by Blown03SVT

  1. For a cage probably .060 or .080 round rod. I just did a cage in .080 and it was my first time and it turned out pretty good after some trial and error. Scales out to 2" tubing. I am getting into scratch building more and most of the items you will need are based on what you are trying to accomplish. Reference photos, a caliper, super glue, plastic welder (ambroid, tenax) and a miter box with a saw is a good place to start IMO. The plastic, aluminum, brass, etc. are the easy items.

  2. It is the nature of the beast.The glue gives off gases as it cures. Some less than others. Seems everyone has their own brand they like to use. I typically use the stuff you can buy anywhere... Gorilla Glue brand, and some light weight brushable stuff made by Permatex that purple and goes clear as it cures. For me those two brand rarely fog, I use them for 80% of my assembly and the other 20% is usually 5 minute epoxy and Tenax. Once in a blue moon I use Testors liquid or Ambroid tube glue but that is for certain situations.

  3. You want a shake and bake kit, buy the Japanese kits. RM and AMT have some good kits if they are not warped. Some of the really old kits are a bear such as the 57 flip nose Vette and the Malco 33 Willys. As a model builder things take time. Test fit, be creative in problem solving and be patient! If you get frustrated, walk away and pick it up when you regain composure. If it were easy everyone would do it and what fun would that be.

  4. I usually do not have issues with adhesion except maybe corners lifting from handling. I foil before waxing the paint as the wax adds slickness and I have always believed that could lead to adhesion issues. If the corners lift I usually burnish it back down and put a small dab of Future applied with a cotton swab to hold it down.

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