Blown03SVT
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Posts posted by Blown03SVT
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Dry brushing sometimes works as well, technical pen (.05mm) might also work
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OKay, another question for the scratch build guru's... I am looking to replicate aluminum panels found in engines bays of Pro Stock cars and am seeking a few pointers before I head down a path of uncharted territory. I have heard aluminum soda cans can be used as the building material, which I imagine is probably around .010" which would scale out a little thick but would practically be just right to the minds eye and probably as thin I can go and still have it workable.
How would I get the curvature out of it?
If not soda can I have heard using roof flashing, how thick is that approximately?
I have read post about annealing and being able to cut with a xacto blade, I imagine getting it to properly fold would take bending it over the edge of a machinist rule, or should I lightly score like P.E. parts?
Is this all worth the hassle, should I just build with sheet styrene and use metalizer?
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Traction bars... they snub the front eye of the leaf springs on launch to maintain pinion angle and mitigate axle wrap and wheel hop. Those U bolts cinch down around the axle tubes. You can pre load or set snubber height to get a different traction characteristic.
Edit... just noticed no U bolts on the ones pictured. The u bolts would go around the axle tube and through the base plates and fasten up underneath the base plates
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At a club meeting yesterday I received that very same comment but it was in regards to my paint work which made me feel like a million bucks coming from seasoned vets in the hobby. From that point there was a lot of questions about the products I use for paint, polishing and finishing.
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Curt that method is SLICK! Thanks for sharing the link. I never would have known that was possible
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Thats sweet! You nailed the stance and proportions
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right here... looks like real nice stuff. I have eyeballed it a bunch myself, but it looks to be a little above my level of building at this juncture
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I have never seen clear styrene succesfully repaired. As Carl mentioned a new replacement might be in order or possibly scratch building a new one out of clear acetate sheet
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Phantom Dually winning!
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Are the front leaf springs installed backwards? The paint work is really nice
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Roger apparently I am not the first person to have been left for wanting with this kits roll cage. I did get it done, its better than the kit piece by leaps and bounds but it could be better. Just practice for the next one I build with the excellent tips you all have shared.
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Looks great! With the large wheels and low pro tires it maybe could have been a tick lower... but that about it.
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Too many would be my answer. I have a Large cardboard box, and a shoe box completely filled with the 3oz Testors cans, and a large plastic Pelican case trunk filled with the tall cans. I know some of the builders on here have racks like the LHS has and they are fully stocked.
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Sort of reviving an old thread, but I believe this belongs here. I recently ordered some parts from M.A.D. and recieved them yesterday. The shipping was SUPER quick with the tracking number supplied, all communication was quick and direct, payment was easy and the parts that I ordered (electric fans, MSD/Accel Super Coil set, pro stock auto shifters, C-6 trans, Holley dominator carbs and distrubutors) are of outstanding quality. Every part had minimal flash, and was registered very sharply, The MSD and coils even came with decals! Very highly recommended! Now I understand why so many guys on here use the M.A.D. pre wired distributors.
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I think I might have a set of those dividers some where from my quartermaster plotting ships position days. Once again you guys amaze me with different clever idea's that I had not thought of. Thanks all
what I use it wire to make my roll cage once I`m happy with the shape of the wire inside the body.Than I transfer the shape of the wire to plastic rod I hope understand what I`m trying to say.
John Pol
John I am thinking something like 16 gauge solid strand would work well, no?
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Bill, I was hoping you would chime in. You always seem to have a tactful and very descriptive way at skinning the proverbial cat. #4 you listed in your post is the main issue I am having, I sort of cheated initially and used most of the kit cage but deleted the halo bar and a-pillar down tubes as they looked sort of like a vintage funny car cage (cube like) rather than a pro stock cage. I should have built it completely from scratch as the kit tubing is .100" and thats the plastistruct rod size I procured to replace the kit sections which seems to be WAY too thick. I am also working around the thickness of the "glass" insert that is probably about 3 scale inches thick so that is affecting the tight fit as well.
This is the most involved roll cage I have ever attempted so bear with me, trying to alleviate starting several other posts dealing with different aspects of the topic. How do you accurately cut the tubing angles for say maiking the x braces that would fit inbetween the two down tubes that run to the back part of the frame? I have a simple miter box, but marking the angle on the tubing and getting them to cut squarely is proving to be challenging.
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So I've been scratch building a roll cage for a fire Fighter Mustang II Pro Stock and I am wondering how to get the roll cage to fit tighter to the body as it would in 1:1. I am having difficulty as it is impossible to get measurements from the outside with the interior tub mocked up in the body. Other methods I have tried have been bending beading wire to an approximate shape based on the window and windshield line but have not been successful. I am sure it would be easier if the doors were cut open but thats not were I was heading with this project.
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Nice model and a nice change of pace to see an 86 stanced without demon camber.
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I know where the seams are so they stick out like a sore thumb to me. I usually try to hide my overlaps in the corners where it looks ike the trim would naturally meet. Of course this is probably one of many reasons why it takes me forever to finish a build
I have a thing about waste as well, which is why I template some awkward shapes to mitigate waste when trimming away. Straight trims I get close to the actual width and length with a machinist rule.
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That color is wicked with those stripes! Nothing to be unhappy about there. Looks real nice! Better yet, you finished it in less than a week. I haven't been able to do that since I was a teenager.
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I just cut the BMF in 1/4" wide strips.
Most times that does work, but for something say like a 55 Chevy h/t the drastic curves and wide bands of chrome around the windows are tough to manipulate the foil around without crinkling or tearing.
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Seems it would be alot faster than my masking tape/3x5 card method.
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Based on that last statement I would try Future then
Working with Aluminum sheet
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
I never thought of the disposable baking pans... have to give those a shot, and seems pretty low buck too