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the goon

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Everything posted by the goon

  1. Very nice. I gotta try doing something like this. Mark
  2. Clovis, Thanks a million . I guess the biggest part of weathering for me was/is the trial and error. I truly do enjoy the weathering process. I've never been very good at thinning paint for my airbrush, so I've always used the washes/dry brushing/pastels system. I've also used oils, but feel more comfortable with the enamels. I believe there's always the fine line between doing enough weathering to have it be seen, and going too far, as to overpower the base colors. I love to look at all types of models, to see how others have achieved their results. Mark
  3. Cool. "real world" car. Mark
  4. clean Mark
  5. CSMO, Thanks a lot. Railroad companies like the New York Central, and the Penn Central would have their own tug boats to move barges (car floats) of rolling stock across rivers like the Hudson, from one end of their line to another. The tugs would usually tie up on the side (hip) of a barge, and take it across the river, or have 2 barges, one one each side of the tug. There was a huge amount of car float traffic in New York harbor into the early 1960's. My favorite period of model boat building is the harbor type tugs from 1880's through the 1940's. Mark
  6. Tony, Thanks. I do love all types of modeling Mark
  7. Sam, Thanks. I've been flying rc for the last 13 years, and building rc scale electric ships for over 30 years. I like to build plastic trucks/armor kits between/during rc projects. Mark
  8. Thanks guys. Harry, I thought about the nail heads, but thought even the pencil point might be too large in 1/32nd scale. Mark
  9. Hello out there, I'd like to share with all of you a conversion I finished recently; a late steam period railroad tug. Scale is 1/32nd, length is 32". The model started out as a rc "ready to run" diesel semi scale model. The hull is fiberglass, with the the cabins being styrene. I wanted to back date it to the late 1930's. After disassembly, I began rearranging some of the fittings that came on the model, added more from the spare parts box, planked the upper deck with basswood strips to match the printed main deck. New resin watertight doors, and portholes were added, along with new brass railing stanchions. A piece of plastic sink pipe was used for the funnel, with Evergreen strip added. Styrene was also used for the scupper doors. Everything was repainted using spray can colors. Weathering was done using the basic wash/dry brush methods. Model car tires from the parts box were used for the fenders, and the front bow fender came from a mop. I also added a steam engine/horn/whistle digital sound unit. Thanks, Mark
  10. G, Thanks, Weathering has always been my favorite part of modeling Mark
  11. Hey out there, Thought I would post one of my recent builds, The Tamyia flak 36/37 in 1/35th scale. This a OOB build, with Model Master paints, and weathering pastels/dirty washes. I had never built a field gun before, it went together well. The base color is Model Master DAK sand out of the rattlecan, then a series of washes/dry brushing. My main field of builds are rc scale ships, plastic light duty vehicles, and armor. sorry about the shadows of the photos. Mark
  12. Cool. maybe it is time for a "horse drawn" catagory. Love your tag line also Mark
  13. Wonderful work. Weathering is asome. Mark
  14. Man, you do some fantastic work Mark
  15. Great job I enjoy weathering more than the building sometime. Mark
  16. Good job. Classic colors. Mark
  17. Turned out great. Perfect choices for a Watson type custom. Mark
  18. Very nice. Love the open bed. Mark
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