clovis

Thanks, jwrass. I used some Testors Glosscote out of a vintage bottle that dates to the mid-eighties over Testors Model Master, and it looked awesome. I did happen to use a dab of the Glosscoate lacquer on some Tamiya acrylic, and it melted the paint right off the model!

Thank you again for your help. The first round of judging went well. The judge seemed to like our model, and did not mention or dock us for the small bits of paper glued to the tires. Again, thank you!!!!!!!!!!

Interesting thread. I just completed a build of the MiniCR*AP Model A. The nice thing about that kit are the super detail parts. The bad stuff about the kit: 1. Is there any part in the kit that is NOT warped? 2. Locator pins would have been nice. I think that there were a total of 2 working locator pins in the whole kit. 3. I just got to thinking about this list, and if I completed a list of the problems with the kit, the owners of this forum might be upset that I used so much bandwidth. Let's just say that you should have better modeling skills than I do if you decide to tackle this kit.

Thank you for asking this question. I considered using the Tamiya white primer with Model Master enamels as a top coat ...until I saw the price of Tamiya primer. My goodness, Tamiya must be putting real gold in that primer.

Thank you for the replies!!!! I appreciate the help!!!! Having run out of time, I scraped off what I could, and covered the areas with a thick wash. (We are building a rusty junker.) It stands out like a sore thumb to me, but to someone else, it might not appear too awful bad. If the 4-H judge catches a glimpse of it in the right light, he/she will dock us hard. Judging starts in less than 7 hours...I am going to bed. Again, thank you for the help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you for the suggestions!!! They are appreciated!!!!!!!!!! Keep the suggestions coming! I've got hours to go on this model.

Assembling Minicrap 1/16 Model A truck. Due tomorrow morning as daughter's 4-H project. I had IMMENSE problems with the wheels. I finally figured out a solution using a part of a Bic pen barrel to use as a spacer/sleeve, mostly to add gluing surface. Super glue leaked onto the instructions, and the wheels got glue to the paper. Now we have paper glued to the tires! Any suggestions??? Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!!!

Over the weekend, I saw the most expensive Mustang that I've ever seen. I talked to the owner, who was as cool and friendly as could be. He gave me a brief run down on his car. A 2013, built to race. I'm not sure that there wasn't anything on that car that wasn't customized or replaced with some super-duper high end racing component. Said that he was at 580 HP at the rear wheels, and over 700 on the engine. I'd say that he had at least $100,000 in that car, at minimum. I don't know a thing about late model drag cars, but this was the nicest street legal drag car that I've ever seen.

Thanks, Dave. I'd love to build that Hudson someday. I built a Revell racing style Corvette a few years ago, and absolutely LOVED that kit. It was one of their Skill Level 3 kits. near perfect fitment, awesome instructions, and outstanding fit and finish. Did I say how much I LOVED that kit? The Model A that we are building is due for a 4-H project Thursday morning...and I am fit to be tied with the wheel assemblies.

I am working on a 1/16th Minicraft Model A truck. The fitment of some parts is just awful, and the instructions are driving me crazy and make me scratch my head. There is a generator on the engine that I believe is supposed to glue up with the fan belt assembly. The poorly drawn, poorly executed and simplistic instructions show that the genny mounts to the block. But in the real world, I have no idea how this thing should fit. Yes, I have checked to see if I have the right part....and have done so about 58 times. I am totally clueless...and dumb. Anyone else ever run into poor instructions, and extremely poor fit? Anyone else ever sit and scratch their head wondering who the heck designed this kit, and how you'd like to give them a piece of your mind?.

I'm back to the hobby after a 25+ year hiatus. I am using super glue on my second model ever. I bought a few two packs of super glue at the dollar store. Overall, this glue is working well. I am so used to the old school Testors glue that I have a small learning curve. One bit of that learning curve is that I caught myself starting to glue up pieces before I retired for the night, just so they could dry overnight, LOL, even though I was using super glue. I read once that the old school Testors glue bonded plastic thru a chemical reaction, and until that chemical reaction took place completely, no amount of air, hair dryers, etc. would make them dry any faster. Is that true? Do super glues, when used on plastic, work the same way?

Do you have a set of die files? One of the handiest tools I've ever owned; both for model building and in the real world.

I need to find something to hold the doors in place on a model, but only temporarily. I need to see how the different colored doors will look with the body color on this rusty junker that I am building. Also, this Minicraft kit is hard to fit, and I would love to have a temporary glue to mock the body up as I build it. Suggestions for a temporary glue?? THANK YOU!!!!

I am new(er) to the hobby after a 25 year hiatus. In the past, I've carefully used regular Testors glue to attach windshields and other clear parts. I've seen many posts on special glues for clear parts, so I picked up a bottle of Testors clear...$5.99...ouch! In my area, the choices for different glues are limited. Mostly Testors and some Tamiya. (I'm not a big fan of Tamiya products.) What is your choice for cementing clear parts, and are there any cheaper alternatives? Thanks so much!!!!

I need to paint a bench seat for a 1/16 truck. I am mixing a color, and don't have an airbrush to use, so I need to hand brush the paint on the seat. I also need to paint a truck door, and am thinking about brushing it too. (I am building a rusty junker.) I am using Testors Model Master enamel paints. I scored a very large lot of artist's brushes at an auction not long ago. I probably have 60+ brushes. What type of brush is best for large, flat areas? What type will give me the best coverage?? Wide flat brushes? Long bristles or short? Thanks in advance!!!!

Wow...what an awesome tutorial!!!! Bill, you need to do a book on the basics, and I need to print and publish it!

I am building a 1/16th 1931 Model A as a rusty junker that has been left abandoned. The chrome in this kit is beautiful, and in my opinion, is the nicest and most realistic chrome that I've ever seen. Nonetheless, I need to tone the chrome down to make it look weathered. Ideas, anyone??? Thank you for helping me be a better builder!!!!

Wow!!!! Awesome tutorial!!! I am going to be using this technique this week!!!

What do I use to clean Tamiya paint out of my brush? I've been making washes with Model Master enamels by using thinner and a dab of paint. What do I use to make a wash using the Tamiya? Thank you for your help!!!!!!!!

I once rented a Taurus, and was on a very empty stretch of interstate in Wyoming. I may,or may not, have tried to see what it might do. The car may, or may not, have hit over 100. That was almost 20 years ago, and for the moment, I may have thought that it was a cool thing to try. In hindsight, I look back and think that it may have been one of the more idiotic things that I may (or may not) have ever done.

THANK YOU FOR THE HELPFUL REPLIES!!!!!! YOUR HELP IS APPRECIATED!!!!! I have used some of the Dollar Store variety, and it works okay, except that the glue dries up in the tube pretty quickly. Will I experience this with the special applicators in the bottles, like the Testors?

Thank you for the replies!!!! Is there any chance that I could use a vintage bottle of "Testors Glosscote Lacquer" over the flat enamel painted seats? The bottle that I have is definitely from the mid to late 1980's. I bought it at a thrift store, I think, and it is identical to a bottle that I had back then. I've never used the Glosscote Lacquer. Also, will the Glosscote Lacquer clean up with regular mineral spirits???? Thank you for helping me be a better builder!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm returning to the hobby after a 25 year hiatus. How do you paint your vinyl seats to look realistic? I am working on a bench seat for a '31 Model A. Rattle can? Airbrush? Regular brush? Brands of paint? Thanks in advance!

I am thinking about buying a bottle of super glue for my building. What brand should I get? Are there any super glues with a longer open time? Is the Testors brand super glue okay? (Hobby Lobby has it in stock) My model is in full primer. Do I need to sand either primer or paint off the plastics where my glue points are going to be? Thanks in advance!!!!!

I've been away from model building for about 25 years. I think this is the fifth model that I've attempted. I have so much to learn. Helping my daughter with a 4-H entry. We picked the Minicraft 1931 Model A truck in 1/16th. We thought it would be interesting. This Minicraft might qualify for the "Worst Model Ever" award. The cab is warped. Actually, I think that every part in the kit is warped. How on earth am I going to fix the warped cab? The part is actually the back of the cab, the roof of the cab, and the front support pillars. Kits are supposed to be fun. This kit is depressing. If I had $60 to blow, I'd junk this one and buy the new Foose Camaro.