clovis

Bump back to the top. I hope the good Doctor will kindly offer some insight.

I forgot to mention that the model entries are not limited to just cars: The categories include: Automotive Military Airplanes (both civilian and military) Ships Rockets Dioramas Other All scales are judged together, meaning that the 1:8 and 1:24 cars are judged against one another in the same category.

THANK YOU FOR THE REPLIES SO FAR!!!!!! These are wonderful ideas!!!!!!! Please keep them coming!!!!

When I was a kid, we were strongly encouraged to bring the box, the instructions, and whatever was left of the decal sheet.

I have recently returned to model building after a 25 year hiatus. I was very active in 4-H as a kid, and entered several models each year for our 4-H fair. Back in the day, we generally had very good judges, who I felt were qualified to be a judge of models. I have been very dismayed in the past few years by the selection of judges at our county 4-H fair. Just two years ago, the reserve grand champion car model was a die cast "made in China" drag car. I'm not even sure that the 9 year old that entered it knew what he was entering, or that he assembled anything on the car, other than removing it from the box. "How cute!!!!!!!!!" the 20 something girl judge exclaimed when he dropped it off. "Did you paint that free hand?" she asked about the colorful decals applied to the sides of the car. This gal was equally enamored with another die cast MIC car, an old Chevy truck that looked to be a Franklin Mint model. "Wow. You must be really good to have painted 'C-H-E-V-R-O-L-E-T' on the tailgate with a brush" she said in absolute astonishment. The funniest part was that the kid who entered the model was simply bewildered, and couldn't even answer the question. His face turned about nine shades of red after she asked him, about the tailgate. This truck only won a champion ribbon, so Franklin Mint needs to get busy if they want to win. Even though we won a blue ribbon with an honor star, I feel that all the kids, including us, who assembled real model kits from a box of unpainted parts were cheated. FWIW, the 4-H rule book states that the entered model must be assembled from a kit. There are several kids, even though they have been building models for 8 to 10 years, are no longer going to enter models because of the time and expense...just to have an unqualified judge pass on their hard work and give a podium win to a kid who entered a die cast model they found on their Grandpa's shelf the very morning that the model was due. It's not like we have enough kids in 4-H, or enough kids entering models at the fair. I am planning on approaching the 4-H director about this issue. While I might get the door slammed in my face, on the off chance that I am asked for advice or help, where would we find a qualified judge? We are close to Indianapolis. Unfortunately, this is an unpaid job, and falls right smack dab in the middle of a work day. Thoughts? Ideas? Suggestions?

Don't quote me on this, but I think that model boxes are printed using flexography. Talk about EXPENSIVE. I never brokered a box job, but flexo can be stunningly high. I priced out a flexo job once, and the plates alone were well over $1,200, and this was a small imprint area, nothing even close to the size of a model box. When you consider: 1. Preliminary art sketch for the box 2. A model has to be completed 3. That model is photographed, usually by a pro photographer, 4. A graphic designer familiar to the box business has to lay out the artwork and typeset the job 5. Proofs have to be made 6. Touch up work/photo enhancing etc. 7. When the art is approved, the color separations have to be completed 8. On a full color box, 4 plates are made for the 4 color process ($$$$) 9. Production begins I'm sure I missed something, but this is the gist of it...and NONE of this is cheap.

Dr. Cranky, I've been watching your videos...they are great!!! I have a very serious question though: If you were to advise someone who is coming back to the hobby after a 25 year hiatus, and they could only buy one of the two books, which book would you advise them to buy? I've always loved weathered models, trains, planes, military and automotive, and desperately want to start, which book is best for learning how? Your book, or this new one?

Wow. A very sharp car!

Thank you for the replies. It has been an interesting conversation. As a side note, I spent many years in the printing business, and while I never worked with box printing, I think most of us would be surprised to know how expensive the art, graphic design, set up, plates, and four color printing is for boxes.

I am curious to know how much the manufacturers are spending on tool and die for a new kit. I am sure that the tooling must be astronomical. Years ago, back in the early 90's, I got an estimate on a single plastic part (not model related), and the tooling costs were $20,000 for a single cavity mold, and this was not a highly detailed part. I know that, as a general rule, that tooling costs have dropped quite a bit with the competition in China, but they are not cheap. As a side note, I am told that the much of the quality coming out of China can be poor, and often requires reworking before production can start. And, for the record, I have no dreams or aspirations of getting into the model business...I am just curious. Does anyone know? Thoughts?

Nice!!!!!

Wow...that is absolutely stunning!!!! When I saw the first pics open up on my computer, I thought they were pics of an actual 1:1 car.

Wow...pretty impressive work!!! Thank you!!!!

Very realistic!!!

Tomo, Can I ask what colors and brands that you used for the interior? Did you prime the parts before final painting? How did you get the lines so perfect on the seats? Masking?

Tom, Thank you so much!!! I appreciate the tips and tricks!!!

Art, Thank you so much for your time and reply. It is guys like you that make hobbies like this so good. Are you up to a dumb question? Since it could be a while before I have a working airbrush set up, do you think I could spritz the thinned paint that you described onto the parts using the sprayer from a Windex bottle? Another option that considered was stripping the plating off the parts and trying to find Floquil brass paint, and painting the parts, then trying to weather them. Thoughts? Thanks so much!!!!!

After many years, I am returning to the model building hobby. My daughter and I built a Revell Corvette for her 4-H entry last year, and I was surprised to learn how much I missed building. I've been very inspired after watching Dr. Cranky's YouTube videos to build some junkers. I bought a Lindberg Ford Model T in 1:16, Sure, I realize this isn't the ideal kit to build, but it was cheap, and something we can practice some weathering techniques. I'd like to learn how to weather the brightly...and actually gaudy...brass (chrome style) plastic parts. The rusty and junk-out Model T is going to look very odd with a rusted body and bright gaudy chrome. I am totally new to weathering techniques, and I don't have a working airbrush set up yet. Heck, at this point, I own less than 10 different colors of paint!!!! Ideas? Thoughts? Suggestions? Thanks!!!!!

Great idea!!! I think I am going to use this on a junked out Model T that I am getting ready to build. Thanks for giving me a good solution to my seat question!!!!!

I am a total noob, especially to the forum, but looked for the Pledge/Future Shine. It appears that the Pledge that is carried at W*lmart has a new label, and does NOT have the "With Future" logo. The label says "New Look, Same Product". Is this the product I want to buy?