clovis

Hobby Lobby with a 40% off coupon. Of course, it is supposed to be one coupon per day, per person. I've gotten lucky a few times and had a cool cashier...and sometimes I walk to the car and come back in, LOL. The things I do to save 47 cents....LOL.

My kit of choice wouldn't even be a car. I'd like to have a stack of the forth coming HK B-17 models in 1/32. They are only $287 per kit, but it would be fun to build them in all the various squadron markings and colors. Years ago, I built the MPC Me-109 in 1/24....that one would have to be my second choice.

Looks like a beautiful car. What is the price?

I would absolutely love to have one of those kits, and would be thrilled to build it. But at $287 for the kit, I probably never will. My only hope would be to catch one on ebay cheap, but that will probably take years to find, if ever. FWIW, the reviews and pictures on this kit make it look like a stunning build.

Yes, exactly!!!

Liked it??? I LOVED it!!!!!! I would recommend this book to anyone in the modelling hobby.

Well, as much as I hate to admit it, money isn't growing on trees around here. We are self employed, and we had a tough winter. Aside from that, I've already spent enough in my lifetime on MRI's, doctor's visits (@ $285 per visit), and medicines (@ $350 a month) that I could have bought very nice examples of the 1:1 cars that I am building models of. While I am thankful to be alive, having a dang tumor in your head can be an expensive proposition. I was just curious if there were simple old tricks to getting use out of a clogged rattle can. I don't want to be penny wise and pound foolish with either my time or money. I'd rather spend that $5 on 4 new bottles of Testors...rather than having another can of hammered copper that I won't use very often.

Ain't that the truth!!! I told the customer service rep at Rustoleum that I never had problems with Krylon, and she replied "Our paints are much thicker and therefore have greater durability". FWIW, I picked up a can of Krylon Galvanizing Primer...wow!!!! That is some nice stuff!!! Lays down flat and thin. I bought it off the clearance rack for $2.50, and now wish that I would have bought all the other cans just like it. I'll be much more likely to buy Krylon paints in the future.

Any new updates on this 73?

i recently picked up a large lot of older Rustoleum rattle cans at an estate auction for $1. I got a large array of colors. One of the colors is metallic hammered copper, and was brand new and never used. I was very excited to get this color. When heavily misted over a base of gold (another rattle can color from the same box), it gives a realistic, aged, brassy color. I shook that can until my arm fell off, sprayed about two short blasts with it, and then the can stopped working completely. i tried three other nozzles on the can, to no avail. I called Rustoleum customer service, and the rep suggested that the can was 'too old to have useful life' and that the solids in the paints 'settled and clogged up the plastic inside the can'. Is there any way I can save this paint? Do you know of any old tricks of the trade that might help me save this old can? While I am asking dumb questions, should I try to shake my other cans on occasion, in hopes of keeping them from going bad? Should I store the cans upside down? Would any of this help? Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!

Doc, I am going to have to buy one of these books too. The Rodz, Ratz and Rust book is top notch!!! You are not good for my wallet!!!! LOL.

I was very embarrassed when I joined this forum when I admitted that I used rattle cans exclusively. I still have the base Badger AB that my dad bought me for Christmas back in '82 or so, but truthfully, cleaning it after use does not sound like much fun. Glad to know that I am not the only rattle can guy around!!!!

Are you referring to the new book, Doctor? I finally found one of the Ratz, Rodz and Rust books on ebay, bought it, and it is fantastic!

Yes, he most certainly has....and his builds make me want to trash my unbuilt kits, and quit the hobby altogether, LOL. I couldn't build that kind of quality in a million years!!!!!

And I thought my old car was in rough shape....

Very nice!!!!!!!!

I was perusing the great auction site the other day for 1:1 pictures for reference on my latest build, and stumbled across some vintage paint chips. These are the color charts that a body shop or paint retailer would have used back in the day to match a color for a car body. Some of those colors are fantastic. Folkstone Gray for a '39 Merc, Sage Green for '40 Hudson, and Strato blue for a '48 Nash are just beautiful colors, IMO. Does anyone use these cool old charts to mix their paints?

Thank you for the replies. I've seen so many stunning models on this forum, built by such outstanding professional builders, that you get to wondering if anyone else has had a build go from bad to worse. I don't think the airplane build would have been so horrid if we would have had more time before the 4-H entry was due. Where do you find a set of landing gear when you have no stash, and just 26 hours before the model is due? Decals are easy to find on ebay, but getting them within a 12 hour time frame is a different story! At the time, I had exactly 5 bottles of paint in my building kit, and 2 cans of Testors rattle!!! Again, thank you for the replies!!! At least I'm not alone!!!!

Don't feel bad. I have far fewer than you do. ------has under 4 (one of those kits needs to find a new home on ebay, and I am building one of those kits now)

I am working on the same kit. When I look at Harry's absolutely stunning kit, I want to empty the plastic contents of my kit in the trash can, and toss the box in the recycle bin. It is a little depressing to realize how bad my build will be when compared to Harry's work...

I was wondering if I put a dark wash against those accented body lines, and then painted my top coat in white, if the body lines would have more depth and stand out better. No, I don't want to paint them a different color that the rest of the body....I just want them to have visual depth when looking at the model. Thanks!!!

Thank you, Harry. This is not the first time that you've posted a picture, and I thought it was a real car. I've been dry brushing for many years, but I can't seem to get it to look real like yours. Maybe I need more practice?

Thank you!!!! Dr. Cranky is the best. I even bought the book. He is the master of rusty and crusty!!!!

Thanks. I'm not wanting to pin strip the lines. I want to accent them to give them more depth after the topcoat is applied. I just want to improve my skill set, and have better looking models.

FWIW, this works with hardware store variety enamel rattle cans too. It might not be as good as airbrushed acrylics, but it does work with enamel rattle cans. We used Rustoleum. It is probably best to allow the paint to cure completely before removing the salt. I found that the enamel encapsulated the table salt we used, and was much harder to remove those tiny bits of salt, but I liked the rough and crusty look that it left on the model. The large sea salt easily crumbled right off the body once the body was dry. Sorry for the thread drift. I scoured the internet high and low, and couldn't find anyone using enamel rattle cans for this method of weathering. Seems that everyone in the Western Free World is using acrylics and airbrushes for this process. Am I the last hack on the planet still using rattle cans?