ScaleDale

I bought one of these and could wire an engine with cat hair if I wanted to. http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Drill-0-013--0-079-0-4-2mm/dp/B001IC9CXK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1370122677&sr=8-5&keywords=micro+drill+bit+set Dale

I'd keep practicing with the one you have. I never touch my songle action any more. Dale

Actually, it's a Sportsman. But I didn't want to bother to correct him. The block and intake are pretty close for my purposes and as for the spark plug spacing visible in the valve covers, the answer is...Bondo (and a pin vise). I'll post a WIP for this after I finish my Super Street Fairlane. BTW: Any suggestions on how to do a P/S hood scoop? The scoop is actually a hat that fits on the carbs and the hood has a slot that it slides into. The whole front end save for the scoop slides off to service the engine. Dale

You paint tires? I put them in a socket driver in my power drill and dress them with sandpaper. Dale

Ross Gibson BOSS 429 sold as a Ford Pro Stocker. Can't run OHC motors in NHRA P/S. When will they grow up? This is going in a Super Street '64 Fairlane. Dale

Yes. I just finished sorting all the engine parted out of the box and packing them up with my 2010 Mustang. It's not the "real" motor I'm looking for, but I know that's just not on the market. All I really need to do with the Jukebox motor is fill and move the spark plug wire holes. Easy. Dale

Thanks, guys. The valve covers on the 603 don't have the bolt holes at the edges that the others do, so it looks like a go. Thanks for the input. I may order an extra for the Jegs Mopar if I can find an Avenger body. Dale

Yes. I was looking at his Blue Thunder Mopar HEMI last night. It has all the dry sump stuff that I will need and the valve covers are flat and generic. They could be sanded down and drilled to match the plug wire patterns of the Ford rather easily. I'm going to look at the motor in the new Jukebox Ford Sportsman I have, too. I want to use the chassis to build a 49 Merc Pro Mod with a blown Gibson motor I already have. If the block is big enough, I can just scratch build the valve covers. That part is easy. Edit: I just noticed those center plug holes in your image are paired together. I'll look that one up. Just hope the closing of ScaleDreams doesn't create a distribution problem for all the companies that worked with them, like RGE. Dale

Great attention to details in paint and assembly. This is way better than any first build I ever did either as a kid or adult. You can really make your next build pop by paying more attention ant time to prep. Test fit all of your parts and sand or file down the seams when they show. A lot of us will even add a bit of Bondo to those lines before paint or even primer to make them go away. I will do a test shot of white or aluminum paint over seams to see if they are blended out or not. It really helps. Keep up the good work and show us your next build. Post it in the Workbench thread so we can watch you build. That's always fun. Dale

I'm not quite that crazy to try to scratch build a 1:25 motor I'm just looking for a reasonably well proportioned available motor that I can add some Bondo to the valve covers and make them look like the one in the Larry Morgan car. I'd go crazy as a builder of models if I wasn't willing to make some compromises Dave: Thanks for the info. I did my searches on Bing and came up with less info than Google. Dale

You aren't raining on my parade, only backing up my suspicion.. There is nothing remotely like this motor available from Ford Racing. Only a very few Pro Stockers run them. The only thing that connects any badges Pro Stock motor to the factory is a number stamped on a rough machined block of hardened metal that is finished by a specialized engine builder. Thanks for the link. Dale

The engine photos have time stamps from December 11 and 12 of 2009, I think the Coyote was still in development at that point. No matter, though, Coyote engines are all multi valve overhead cammers which aren't allowed in NHRA Pro Stock. That has to be a 90 degree two valve pushrod motor. I have that Gibson in a 56 Tbird and it's huge! Dale

Hi, all. I’m in the planning stages for a series if builds of contemporary (2010) Pro Stockers, starting with a Mustang similar to the one driven by Larry Morgan in the reference pics and seek your input on dressing up the motor. It’s a 500 cid Ford push-rod hemi (not HEMI) that isn’t available from any kit or resin molder that I know of. It’s based off the BOSS 429 found in the Revelle ’70 Mustang Mach I with a dry sump oil system like in the “shoe box” Chevy and Ford Sportsman kits that are out. The intake and carbs are easy to do with stuff I have. I could use the 429 block and mod some valve covers or get generic resin ones, what do you suggest? Note how the inside spark plug wires are paired while the headers are evenly spaced. Pics: Dale

Website looks like it's been revamped since I last ordered. Here's his message: "Sorry for the lack of updates here lately. Three kids sports keep a guy real busy. My computer also decieded it no longer wanted to work late last week. So orders have been delays a little. We will be shipping orders direct from the site but inventory wise and customer history wise we are dead in the water untill we can see if we can recover the data. So please be patient. If you have emailed us since wenesday and have not heard back email again. Yahoo mail on the moble really stinks and does not seem to push all emails through. Thanks for understanding.. May 5 at 2:43pm" Dale

Speed goes up, car goes down. The '33 was/is in the Ford Museum. Dale

Just to clarify: A back feeding printer has the paper in an angled slot behind the print head, a bottom feeding one has the paper tray flat under the machine. It makes the paper do a u-turn which isn't good for your purposes. Dale

Getting over your head is one way to learn how to swim better. Dale

Thanks, but all of the tools in the forum Reply to Topic window are greyed out and inactive for me. I can type and paste links, but don't have access to any of the proper link or Image tools unless I switch to FireFox or Chrome. Even IE9 on my HP is "full service", just Safari 6.0.4 on an '08 MacBook Pro. I have considerable computer experience, having been on-line since we delivered packets on horse back and my browser was Bessie, so I doubt that it's user error. But there's a first time for everything Dale

The 1:1 has the same 115 inch wheelbase as the '67 Chevelle, so the Pro street Chevelle should work. You can't do any kit bashing without a lot of work, though. The parts were not meant to go together. Dale

What browser are you using? This forum won't work well with Safari, especially for posting photos. Firefox seems to work the best. It's not a Mac or PC thing, just Safari. Dale

Here's my take on step 4, scaling the image to the correct size to fit the model. I scan either the technical drawing from the first page of the instructions or the decal page from the same into a file that is the same resolution as the decals I will print. 300 dpi RGB color for my purposes. If I want to verify the scale I look up the factory wheelbase of the vehicle and scale the image to match it after dividing it by 25. After making sure all my decal images are 300 dpi RGB, I import or Place them into this scaled document and size them as I please. When I'm done I either copy them back to a new document to prepare for print or just delete the vehicle layer. Other decal notes: Don't use clear paper to go over dark paint. You will be disappointed with the results unless you have a very good printer. Dale

Tubbs: Oil is usually used over acrylic because you can rub the excess off with enamel thinner and it wont affect the acrylic. I couldn't do that because Alclad is lacquer and enamel thinner messes it up. I tried using acrylic as a wash but it just didn't run like thin oil will. By spraying it with Future I coated it with a clear acrylic wax and could use the oil I learned about on-line. These are the best looking solder headers I have ever seen. Better than the ones in the Model Cars Magazine "Scratch Building School" article. Between that body and paint choice, no one will ever steal this car. Dale

Here's that link I memtioned now that I'm on a computer that I comprehend... http://www.revell.com/support/parts.html Dale

Dremel Stylus, needle files, calipers and a calculator app. Just can't go by "Scale Dale" without the last two Dale

There's a link on there web page regarding this. I don't recall where. If you email them a pic and the part number and receipt and I think that proof of purchase thing on the box, they will get you the missing part. The hitch is the kit has to be less than two years old or something like that. I bought an out of production 64 Fairlane that only had one cylinder head and was out of luck. Dale