ScaleDale

Working headlights and tail lights were required in the NHRA for gas class cars back in the day when this car would have run. Here's a discussion over in Tips and Tricks on gassers. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=75183 Any supercharged car would run a scoop. Dale

Like the guy above me said, check out RC stuff. One of my LHS has a lot of RC business and the shock setups on those things are outstanding. Dale

Thanks for the brand info. My builds are getting complex and time consuming and need to go "under glass" from now on. Dale

You are welcome. The guy in the video is an Admin over at Scale Model Addict. He doesn't do cars, but knows his airbrush and detailing stuff. He has a good presentation style that converts over from his SciFi/War Game stuff well. Goes by Dream Knight aka Chung Chow. Pardon me, Master Chung Chow. Dale

The topic is using washes, and this guy knows: Also: http://www.scalemodelguide.com/painting-weathering/weathering/paint-washes/ and http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/models/tutorials/tips/wash.htm Dale

I do this the hard way. I create a Photoshop document with a grid divided into 10 parts since dimensions are often given in decimals like 117.4 inches. Then I look up the factory wheelbase of the 1:1 car and divide that by the scale I'm working with. Then I set guides at those dimensions in the blank document. If I have a scan of that technical drawing that comes with most model instructions I import it into the document and scale it down until the wheelbase matches the guides I set. Then I have a true scale representation of the car. I do the same with any profile shot of a car to scale it. I used this to match a drawing of a chassis I found on-line to a Mustang I want to build as a guide for making a tube frame. Printing this out gave me a blueprint of my finished car. Kinda.. Dale

I have that one. I like it because it is passive and won't blow dust on my paint and I don't like it because it has no temperature control or even an on/off switch. It doesn't even have a power indicator light. I had to plug it into a power strip with one to know if it was on or not. Did I say I liker it? I do. Dale

The headers are the ones that came with the motor. It's a resin kit from Ross Gibson Racing Engines. I used Alclad on the motor and was afraid to use my usual wash, which is black oil paint cut with enamel thinner since the enamel would eat the lacquer finish. I asked in another part of the forum and didn't get a clear answer so I sprayed the engine with Future to seal the surface and used the oil paint wash. The motor took on a gloss finish and the wash worked pretty well. The wax did a good job of protecting the surface. Dale

I built my models at home but all of the kits came from a LHS owned by a neighbor, so I guess Mr. Brown introduced me to modeling. My mother funded the operation so she gets a lot of the credit. My first models were aircraft. I don't recall the first, but I had an F86 gunning down a MIG on a string over my bed. Mr. Brown had some sort of mundane day job so he quit and opened his Hobby Shop. My mother the sponsor was a hotel waitress. I was probably 12 when I started building models. I got sidetracked by rockets for a while and got into cars in my mid teens. I started building stuff from whatever I could get my hands on at 5 or 6. That would have been 1952 or '53. Model building started in 1959 or '60. I resumed just last Winter. Dale

Shot Alclad on "sheet metal" and primed stripped bumpers for my Pro Street build, added decals to my '56 T-Bird Super Gas, watched a guy fix my garage door, ran faster than a speeding bullet and leapt a tall building with a single bound. Dale

Mine: I was Staff Photographer for Milan Dragway in Milan Michigan in the late '60s. I worked "security" for Grateful Dead and The Who concerts while in college in Ohio. Dale

Nice set-up. I like the looks of the wagon body on the Pro style undercarriage. Great looking wheels, too. I have a bunch of resin coming this week and I think the ones I ordered are similar to these. I'll see soon. Is that the full Nova undercarriage with some scratch built shims or did you splice the two frames like I did? I need to look back through this thread to see the earlier photos of your build. Building headers is a challenge. I have been able to bend rod to simple angles with a heat gun and a block of wood as an angle guide, but the multiple bends required to get them around an engine bay are beyond me at this point. Keep us posted on your progress with this. Tha nks for sharing your time. Dale

Finished my engine this week. I loved the headers and had to thin out the inside rails of the chassis in the engine bay to get it to fit. I was going to rebuild the chassis ahead of the firewall but managed to avoid that. I have another build to finish by the end of the month so this is going to have to rest a bit. see you all soon and thanks for the encouragement. Pics: By for now. Dale

Here's a spec sheet on that car. http://www.rsportscars.com/ford/2010-ford-shelby-gt500/ More pics http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=2010+shelby+gt+500+crate+engine&go=&qs=n&form=QBIR&pq=2010+shelby+gt+500+crate+engine&sc=0-25&sp=-1&sk= It's a lot like the one in this link to Ford Racing Crate Engines. If you look down the page to the link "Crate Engine Catalogue" there's a pdf of all the motors Ford has ever made with lots of details and histories. http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=9560

I did my student teaching out there in 1970. Almost got a job there too. Looks like styrene runs in the blood of Ohioans. Dale

Ohio born and raised. Welcome to MCM forums. Dale

I saw Scott do this over in the Canadian site Scale Model Addict and gave it a try but I must be screw disabled or something. Just couldn't get the turn thing straight. The double wrap is my compromise. This is how modeling should be. Build when you really want to and don't let anything take over your life. Dale

If it's 1:24 molded in red then you made a silk purse out of a sow's ear. I gave up on that kit and trashed it. The AMT is decent. I built one as a gasser and the other is still in the box. It's a rare "bird"... Dale

Thanks for the comment, Wayne. I'm working on the engine now and hope to have some photos to share over the weekend. Dale

Use the Direct Link. I think some of the others are thumbnails. If the link in the post reads TIMG edit out the T and it should change to full size. Be sure to get the one at the end, too. The T is for thumbnail and the IMG is for image. By the way, Don't post in all caps unless you have to because of a vision issue, and if you do, let us know in a sig. On-line it's considered yelling. Edit: In my opinion, Image Shack is more reliable than Photo Bucket. I do a lot of photography and the people in my photo forums who use PB always seem to have issues. I have a tutorial on photo posting using Image Shack and Flickr but I need to tweak it for this forum interface. It's geared for semi-pro photographers. I'll see if I can get to that next week and put it in Tips and Tricks or something like that. Dale

What kind of rear suspension does this kit use, leaf or coil springs? Is it tubbed as well as the Chevell Pro Street? Dale

Won't turpentine thin out the lacquer undercoat of Alclad? Or do you mean after sealing with Future. I'm swapping out the transmission so I'm a day or so away from this. Dale

Is this the AMT kit? I built the American Graffiti version and love the car. Very nice clean build. Looks nice in black. Dale

Thanks, Brett. I think I'll go ahead and seal it just to be on the safe side. It's a resin motor and the Alclad didn't stick very well. Some of it rubbed off the underside of the manifold while I was assembling the carbs. Chipped right off. Future should help add a layer of protection. Dale

Street equipment like tail lights are important factors in separating gas and altered. Fact is, if a Pro Stocker pulls the fuses for his/her lights, that car drops into the Altered group and runs with dragsters today. Dale