DiscoRover007
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Posts posted by DiscoRover007
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This one is just phenomenal. You should see if Lamborghini will buy it from you!
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I’d really love to see a company take on the 4x4 market there are so many untapped subjects that would sell like hotcakes.
Land Rover Discovery
Mitsubishi Montero (03 and up)
Modern Toyota Tacoma’s, Land Cruiser’s, 4 Runner’s
Nissan Patrol
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2 hours ago, peteski said:
Do you have the chipped piece of paint by chance? Something similar happened to me on one or my models (on the A-pillar) and I simply glued the chipped paint back in place. A tiny bit of clear lacquer can be used as adhesive.
If not then your idea sounds usable. Make sure the decanted paint thickens enough to stay in the chipped area and fill it. Don't add any thinner. You can dab the paint on some surface other than the model to get the hang of applying it. To be honest I'm not even really sure where in the photos the chipped paint is.
Appreciate your thoughts! The chip in question is just above the left most bulb in the headlight. Where the edge of the fender would meet the glass of the light. Probably should have circled it.
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Just thinking out loud here. But I wonder if the best solution would be to spray the Tamiya Racing Blue into a cup, add a few drops of Tamiya lacquer thinner and retarder, and fill that chip with a very fine tipped brush. Then I'll use a light coat of Spray Max blending coat, through the airbrush and simply use that as the clear coat to blend it into the existing clear.
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Hey guys so I've got Mk4 supra build that is quite precious to me that I've gone to great strides in detailing and upgrading and having good paint work. The body is painted with Tamiya white primer, tamiya lacquer racing blue from the can, and then spray max 2k clear from the can. It came out great. Somehow however when I was testing the look with the hood on it I managed to chip a pin sized portion of paint away near the headlamp. Luckily, when I attach the headlight glass it makes even less noticeable. But of course this will bother me to no end. I swear its like the universe will not let you get a perfect paint job. Which was the point of using 2k clear in the first place, not getting chips and little accidents like this.
Anyway I wanted to ask what would be the best way to patch this? I feel like its almost too small to mask and spray, and doing so may risk further paint chipping when removing tape, additionally the masking lines may appear more of a nuisance than the chip itself. What I'm thinking is to maybe spray enough of the Racing Blue into a small cup, and then using something like the tip of a lead pencil to sort of dab and fill this hole.
The more difficult part of this for me is what to seal it with? Being that this is a 2k clear finish, the new clear won't blend into the existing one. Could I get away with using the lead pencil trick with the 2k clear as well, and then hoping for the best when it hardens so some very delicate polishing? My understanding though is that 2k is meant to be atomized so I would worry about pinholes or bubbles. I suppose I could try this with a 1k clear also.
Spray Max does have a clear coat blender, but I'm trying to think through how practical that would be on such a small area. I would need to essentially dab on the 2k clear and then quickly dab the blending coat right after. But on such a small area there's no way to really control that the blending coat goes on the edges of the chip. I suppose I could just dab on the color coat and leave it exposed as an option as well.
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Looks very well detailed. Disappointed it's not in 1/24 though. Even at 1/25 it looks a little cluttered toyish to my eye.
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Phenomenal job. This is a perfect build. Hope you keep this one in a case!
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On 9/20/2023 at 8:29 AM, Zippi said:
I first clean my spraybooth with Windex then just before painting I shoot a mist of Windex on the walls and floor. Works for me but everybody is different so it's whatever works.
Thats what I do also. Then I wipe the body thoroughly with Tamiya's static display brush. Does a great job at eliminating dust before painting.
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That PE looks fantastic. Something to keep in mind though, I believe the bumper is attached to the front end as one piece. I know there is a chrome trim that pretty much covers the seam but it might be worth puttying and smoothing over.
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I use spray adhesive. It takes a little more work because you need to mask off the areas you don't want carpeted. But the cool thing is you can spray, apply it, dump the excess and if you still have patches you can respray and reflock again. Or you can fix small patches with the white glue method if you choose to. This gives you a strong and thick layer of flocking without looking matted that Elmer's glue can do sometimes.
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I have the PS-290 and its fantastic.
I also have the Iwata CR and previously had an Iwata Kustom Eclipse CS, the Kustom was good but the 290 is better. The CR is fantastic for acrylics and interior/engine stuff. Very easy to clean. The 289 looks to be a similar type of air brush. I wouldn't hesitate on creos stuff, they are well made.
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Actually found some interesting solutions with military aircraft decals and Gundam decals. We'll see how it goes!
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Hey guys so I've got a build that's got a great paint job save for one little mold line that has ghosted through the paint, despite my best efforts. Rather than repainting anything I thought I might change the look of the car a bit and make it look like an occasional track car. I'm looking for numbered decals that are simply the outline of the number, not opaque all the way through. I've looked all over ebay, spotmodel, and hiroboy but I can't seem to find what I'm looking for. I was wondering if anyone here has come across such decals before?
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So long as you don't lose the brain power sniffing paint and glue haha
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I feel like the LB works Murcielago is a little redundant. Would have liked to have seen them introduce a Huracan roadster version.
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Can't wait. Looks great!
I wish Tamiya would make a Maserati MC12. This subject gives me hope.
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This was pretty poorly handled all round.
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I currently use an Iwata CR and a PS-290. This combo pretty much does everything I need. I'd actually consider getting a second Ps-290 to use strictly for clear coats and metallics.
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Lately I've been starting with painting and assembling the undercarriage and drivetrain. I find I enjoy the process more that way. It also keeps my from skipping anything or not doing as good of job because "things won't be seen".
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Car modelling is very similar to golf in my opinion. You are only playing against yourself. And it takes a lot of practice to become masterful at the craft.
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Looks pretty damn good. For $35 your basically paying for the convenience of not having to use a black base, and all of the prep associated with other products. It's borderline worth it.
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7 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:
That's a subjective statement.
White glue will give you perfect results if you do it right.
I'll give you that there's more than one way to skin a cat, but that doesn't necessarily equate with "better".
Steve
That looks like superb embossing powder application. To each their own. I just like the results with flocking and spray adhesive.
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What kind of clear coat were you using?
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I've been using spray adhesive for years. It gives much much better and realistic results than the white glue, and its a lot stronger. You just have to put a lot of time into masking the carpet off.
Best Silver For Body Paint?
in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Posted · Edited by DiscoRover007
TS-17 Gloss Aluminum is probably the best in scale silver look from a spray can. It takes a lot of work and prep to make it look just right though. You could probably say that of most silvers. You need to wet sand your primer and get it very smooth. Use light coats from a heated can first. Keep your wet coats consistent but not too heavy so you can avoid dark spots. If you are using TS-13 to clear it, you need to again start with light coats to keep the color coat from re-activating.
TS-76 is a good silver too and is more forgiving than TS-17 but the flake is a little larger and has more of a sparkle (Still in scale in my opinion compared to most options). A body with well prepped primer, and finely sanded color coats before the last wet coat of TS-76 will give you a very fine silver look.
TS-30 Silver leaf is very very fine. It's almost more of a plating than it is silver flake. This being the case your primer needs to be baby smooth to keep it looking "fine". It will not cover any flaws whatsoever in your paint. Its a good color but I think it so bare of "grain" that its not quite as pleasing to the eye as TS-17 is.