DiscoRover007
-
Posts
437 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by DiscoRover007
-
-
Beautiful work and smooth paint!
-
Personally I'm ecstatic that they are making the C8 in 1/24. That is my preferred scale. At 1/25 the kits start taking on toy like appearances. and its harder to make in scale looking details and modifications.
-
Duplicolor is incredibly sensitive to humidity. If you can let the paint flash in the sun or by a near by lamp that can help alleviate the problem. Though you risk getting dust in the paint.
-
1
-
-
On 3/23/2022 at 4:28 PM, 1972coronet said:
Thanks for that tutorial. I should've specified that the final coat shouldn't be wet/colour sanded of metallics/ pearls. I wasn't speaking to fixing goofs, removing contaminants, etc.
I completely understood what you meant. That video keeps getting shared on here but I'm not really understanding the controversy. You can't actually sand metallic/pearl coats and bring back the depth with clear coat. You have to respray the last coat as you sprayed and live with that result before clear coating. You can sand your clear coat and respray that.
-
More releases that no one cares about yawn
-
Wow so simple yet genius. This could be used for so many kits!
-
1
-
-
No don't sand the coat before clear. However, do sand the coat before your last wet base coat. This gives you a deeper finish and if you are using metallic, lets the flakes settle on a smoother surface and look as finely grained as possible.
-
Looks great! I'm curious, what paint did you use on the second green car? Looks like it would suit the Tamiya Xj220 quite well.
-
On 11/20/2021 at 3:18 AM, Mattilacken said:
Thought i post my best paint job to date, only my third since starting over.
Decanted Tamiya TS38 Gunmetal shot with my H&S Evolution, no clear because race car CBR Ruse.
Excellent job!
I'd keep that in a nice display case. Without clear its as risk for scratches and chipping.
-
Beautiful!
I actually just thought about making one in this color the other day. Outstanding job.
-
3 hours ago, Snake45 said:
I airbrush enamels thinned with lacquer thinner and I've never noticed a huge difference in ambient conditions. My normal painting garb is shorts and T-shirt and bare feet and if I'm not comfortable in my basement wearing that--too cold or too hot/sweaty--I just don't paint.
Rattlecans are another story. Temp and especially humidity are a big deal there. The worst IME is Duplicolor. And almost any kind of clear gloss.
Here is NC Duplicolor is a gamble every day. Pretty much have to let it dry in the sun to avoid fogging.
-
Nice. I hope we can get them more easily in the US as well. I've always wanted to give these a shot.
-
Finally got my Tamiya MX-5 RF painted.
This was TS-95 Pure Metallic Red over Tamiya Grey Primer, then coated with Tamiya Clear Red then Splash Paints 2k clear to finish it.
I was trying to match the Mazda Soul Crystal Red paint application. Very pleased with the results.
-
1
-
-
9 minutes ago, Classicgas said:
Fine. I suggest NOT. Mixing paint types is NEVER a good idea. Just because it worked once doesn't mean it always will. I believe in safe versus sorry. I guess I really don't know what I'm talking about, I've just been working with paint for over 36 years.
It's a good general rule but its not so cut and dry anymore. Certain lacquers aren't as hot like they used to be. Even Testors One Coat Lacquer clear could be sprayed on their enamel lines.
-
Hey gents so I'm trying to simulate the famous XJ220 Green color for one of my kits. I actually found a good combo to use. Tamiya TS-Dark Blue as a base coat, then Duplicolor Emerald Green Pearl over top of that.
However I am currently out of TS Dark blue. I was wondering if anyone here has tried Krylon or Rustoleum underneath Duplicolor paints and if it caused any problems?
It would be nice if Tamiya came out with a new Green Metallic.
-
I got the roadster version. Its a nice kit, hood fit is bad. But If you can get some baby magnets in there I think it would fix it.
Just FYI for everyone that buys one. Despite your instinct to glue and putty the bumpers to the body and hood, they are actually separate pieces on the real car. I dug through many google photos to confirm this. They are separate pieces with fine panel lines.
-
Wonder if Aoshima will make a 1/24 version?
-
Beautiful work!
-
Vallejo Air Black is the best airbrush ready acrylic semi gloss black in my experience. Tamiya acrylic is also good but just make sure you stir the paint properly.
-
Nice details. Curious as to what paints you're using and washes?
-
On 6/23/2021 at 11:17 AM, jacko said:
I think the fujimi rear window shape is clearly more accurate. I like the meng hood. All in all the new kit looks great to me. I wonder if the fijimi rear body would fit the meng kit. I think it would probably look great if left open to show the engine, which is what I would do anyway.
Oof yeah. I'm pretty excited for the Meng kit but that rear window is an eye sore. I wonder if they based it off a particular prototype? Otherwise some sanding and puttying would be needed to round off those corners.
-
I had this same dilemma months ago and ended up using Tamiya Light Metallic Blue. Its pretty close to Marina Blue.
Nassau blue is a nice color and a factory GM code. However it is noticeably different than Marina blue and is not present on 1967 and onward corvettes. Nassau has more of a frost to it, where as Marina is more "blue".
-
Its a few things but I think one reason is because it really takes a lot of time and skill building to become decent at it. It's so easy to make mistakes and become dissatisfied with the results.
-
I'd use Tamiya Mica blue or Testors Nassau blue overcoated with Tamiya Clear blue
AMT 1/25 2021 Bronco First Edition
in Truck Kit News & Reviews
Posted
This is awesome I had no idea they were making this. I feel like SUV's are still an untapped market for MC companies. To date no one has made a Land Rover Discovery I or II, or any modern Montero Limited. Those would sell like hotcakes.