DiscoRover007
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Posts posted by DiscoRover007
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16 minutes ago, Modlbldr said:
So, what makes the ER34 different than the standard R34?
Later-
My guess is that this is maybe a touring package? The sunroof seems like it’s more for cruisers than all out street racing.
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2 hours ago, Michael jones said:
You hit the nail on the head there K3. I think the truth is Aoshima (road cars)/ Beemax (racing/rally cars) have really taken the market over in Japan. Tamiya seem to have found themselves in an awkward position with odd choices. Of course the American market is pretty much spoken for by Revell/AMT/Round 2 etc. I think if Tamiya want to get back in the market, they should do more Japanese cars. For example the Tamiya Mazda RX7 Efini, must have sold a phenomenal number of units. Same for the Nissan GTR R32 and R34. These are the cars young people relate too. They don't have a huge amount of patience for large decalling/ complicated builds. The Ford GT was already covered by Revell and is not Japanese so probably won't sell that well. The Toyoto Lemans winner may sell well, however will be a complicated kitset for inexperienced builders (and probably me too).
I think they would find success with the untapped truck/SUV market. Tacoma’s, newer Pajeros, Land Rovers, a 4 Runner would be great.
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Tamiya, followed closely by Aoshima. Subject matter is the most important thing obviously but right after that I have to consider the accuracy of the mold and how many mistakes I have to fix which with Tamiya and Aoshima as of late are very few.
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So is the main issue with this kit now that the rear quarter windows are not the correct shape? Simple sanding and clear plastic the fix?
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On 3/3/2019 at 10:53 AM, Ahajmano said:
That sounds like some good suggestions. Here is what I’m going to do next time:
1) clean the inside of the booth with a wet nap
2) take a shower and spray the model completely naked
3) vacuum several hours before spraying
4) hang the model upside down when finished spraying
I'd use a spray bottle full of water and just spray the inside of your booth a few minutes before spraying. Also spray the floor and anywhere you could imagine kicking up dust, maybe even your pants or arms. I'd also wash the body in cold water and then use compressed air from the airbrush to dry it clean. When dry use a tack cloth or damp paper towel wipe any last seen bits of dust. This has worked very well for me and I'd say has eliminated dust 95% of the time.
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If Tamiya made a 1/24 version full detail Mustang I would be ecstatic. People would pay a premium for that. It wouldn’t necessarily have to be the newest model either. The Mustang has deserved Tamiya(Even Aoshima) quality for a long time in 1/24(not 1/25)
They could even go the RX-7 R1/ RX-7 Efini route
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This build is making want to buy one of these kits. The gallardo has aged beautifully and was a design ahead of its time. Any glaring flaws on this kit? Extra panel lines or anything ?
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Personally I mask the area and then use spray adhesive with flocking. I don't find embossing powder to be more realistic. But that's just my 2 cents.
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Use some kind of box or booth to spray in. Spray the entire area with water in a spray bottle. Also spray your floor and your pants if you dont mind. Basically any area you could imagine kicking up dust. For the body, wash it with water then use your airbrush or a an of duster to remove the water droplets. Then use a tack cloth to wipe anything dust that may remain. Spray the body with another pass with compressed air before painting.
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Good kit. Love this car. Unfortunately the interior is pretty inaccurate.
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On 1/22/2019 at 2:44 AM, niteowl7710 said:
All of the Tamiya Mica colors are more of a pearl "tint" paint that they anything else and are best when sprayed over a white or silver base. So Mica Silver is effectively a Silver Pearl.
As you pointed out there are a great many 80s/90s Tamiya kits that ask you to mix colors that now exist in the X/XF acrylic line or there are TS Colors 20-30 years later that might be closer matches.
Interesting insight there. Have you ever tried gloss sluminum as a base and then mica silver on top of that? Never really though to use the mica paints as more of an overcoat than the first stage of paint. I typically do use white primer with those paints though.
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Hey guys so this will be hard question to answer but i'll give it a shot. Ive used TS sprays for years and they are by far my method of choice for painting bodies. What I'm curious about is their TS- Mica Silver Paint. I'm one of the types that puts a lot of value into sticking to the color recommendations of the Tamiya painting instructions. I like sticking to factory body colors for realism. I know that this is just another way for Tamiya to sell their products. However how much research goes into the matching of Tamiya paints to the actual car paints on new kits?
Reason being is that I love to use their TS-17 Gloss Aluminum as it is a classic german silver. I also use their Mica Silver. The difference between these paints is that the Mica is a little brighter and has more sparkle to it. But I have heard rumours that TS-76(Mica Silver) was actually developed to be an improvement on Gloss Aluminum. Can anyone confirm or deny this? Or it simply an addition to the color line? I know some people find TS-17 more difficult to use and I can see that argument but you can still get a great in scale silver paint job with it.
What's funny is that I look at some of my favorite kits of the early 90's like the NSX for example. The instructions will tell you that TS-17 is their recommendation for Sebring Silver of the real car. But looking at the photos of these vehicles I think you could say TS-76 is a better match. However this is an observation in hindsight as some of these model kits were made with the painting guides before new paints developed such as Mica Silver.
So I'm being really nit picky and this is a niche question. But does anyone have any insight into how these painting guides are developed and is it true that Mica Silver was meant to replace or upgrade their Gloss Aluminum?
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2 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
Sorry. Not true. SOME metallics will polish to a high gloss just fine with no clear, and no blotching, and you won't know which ones work until you try.
And back in the lacquer days on real cars, we routinely polished metallic lacquers with no need to clear them first.
Sure but all due respect that's not something I would chance. If I had a great metallic paint job. I'm not going to risk lifting the metallic particles and getting an uneven/faded out finish. The safe thing is to clear coat it. Won't hurt anything. But it would be wise to test that theory on a spoon before trying it on a paint job.
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You need to clear coat any metallic you use. That way you can polish it. As others have said you can see if you can get that paint matched in scale from a reputable hobby paint dealer. You could also try base coating it in a brown color and the mist coating a metallic lightly over it.
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1 hour ago, 89AKurt said:
I built that last century! The headlights bugged me too. I used MV lens for starters. Then I vacuum-formed new covers, because the kit parts are terrible.
That looks great! What did you mean by MV lenses?
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1 hour ago, espo said:
I like what you're doing with the headlights. What I was trying to understand was from the picture it looks as if there is a gap between the chrome part and the plastic just above it and the hood. My thought was that this might be where the kit's headlight lens would go.
Ah yes I understand. I will be using the kit's lenses for the lights and I will try to minimize the gap of the chrome piece and housing by careful sanding. Ill paint them the same color and hopefully it won't be too noticeable. The kit headlights are poorly designed and "built in" to the bumper. There's no sign of any of that in my photos thought because I completely cut them out.
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2 hours ago, ismaelg said:
Looking good! I'm a sucker for proper panel gaps. This car looks great in blue with the white stripes... hint hint...
Oh yeah that's the plan. Going with the testors GTS blue pearl.
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2 hours ago, espo said:
What do you have in mind for the void area above the Head Lamps ? Are you using the kits head Lamp Lens and maybe darken that area so it wouldn't be seen anyway ?
Which area are you referring to? I do plan to use the kit lenses.
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Hey guys so this will be a slow progress build but I wanted to get the thread started. This is the Revell viper GTS. Probably the best example of the car aside from the prototype version made by AMT.
Good kit overall. However if any of you are familiar with it I’m sure you are aware of the horrible panel gap between the bumper and hood. I have almost addressed this by adding extra plastic and putty so it’s newrly fixed.
The other inaccuracy of this kit that isn’t talked about much is the horrible headlights. They do not resemble the real ones at all and look very toy like.
So to address that I actually bought some cheap burago die cast viper models off eBay. Those headlights are actually very close to the real deal. So I cut those and sanded the backs of the piece to make them very thin. Then I hollowed out the Revell headlight housing with aid of a dremel. If you attempt this be careful as it’s easy to grind away too much. Only one side done right now but I think you can tell it’s a much improved look.
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I wonder what the TS equivalents are to the LP paints. I see they have a "Pure Red" I wonder if thats TS-08 or if the LP "Silver" is Gloss Aluminum.
I probably wont use these too much to be honest. But I could see using the LP Semi Gloss black frequently.
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Duplicolor has always been tricky to paint with for me. I think the issue is that it reacts with hobby plastics and primers. The only way I've found that really cures this is to either undercoat the paint with a similar shade of hobby lacquer first OR use Duplicolor primer sealer before painting, to my memory that has also helped.
I do share the frustrations though. They are super susceptible to humidity and the paint often crinkles and allows ghost lines to show through. I pretty much stick to TS Sprays now or a select few Testors Lacquers.
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19 hours ago, 935k3 said:
Nice haul. I would like to see review on the Calsonic Nissan 91C
21 hours ago, martinfan5 said:Last/first 2018/19 box from Japan
There's an FJ Cruiser model kit!? No way
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I've got this kit in in the spyder version. I painted mine yellow. I think yellow or light metallic blue are the best colors for this car.
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8 hours ago, ShawnS said:
Yes. I agree on a move to 1:24 for all new kits.
Although I haven't purchased any recent release Revell kit as there is nothing in the catalogue that tickles my fancy, it seems to me that the new Revell owners need to take on the world. One Ford GTLM and some old Porsches aren't world beating market changers nor will they raise Revell's market share or profile in non-US countries. Take Beemax, Belkits and Ebbro as examples, They came on the scene and started to issue kits that the rest of the world wanted and the rest of the world is buying those kits and the aftermarket for these kits is firing on all cylinders as well. Even Hasegawa have seen the light and are releasing new subjects and re-issuing some great old kits.
If Revell are to survive and thrive in a supposedly dying market then most future new Revell kit subjects need to have world appeal not just kits for someone whose grandpa drove one back in the day.
Yes absolutely. That's why I think there's huge potential in the SUV market. And there are a number of sports cars that haven't been built. They keep pushing old kits from decades ago and it's holding them back immensely. The best thing Revell did in terms of subject and quality the last several years was their 599 GTO up to the Porsche 918(Which still has its drawbacks). Their new Ford GT is a great kit Im sure but Im afraid it'll just be another one off instead of a sign of things to come.
Aoshima's been doing right for the last several years. They completely dominated the Lamborghini subjects and have made the best versions of them in history of models. They've tapped into the nostalgia of the Countach and are making the new models as well. Tamiya is obviously great but they don't release new kits too often.
Difference between Vallejo Acrylic Gloss Varnish vs Vallejo Acrylic Polyurethane Gloss
in Model Building Questions and Answers
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Hey guys just wanted to get some people to chime in on the difference between these? My understanding is that Acrylic Poly is a much more durable finish and dries quicker. Would it still be compatible with Vallejo's regular thinner?
What I'm looking to do is to find a suitable acrylic clear for carbon fiber decals. I have a few models that don't have aftermarket carbon decal template support. So my plan is to use SMS clear carbon decals over a vallejo metallic gunmetal coat. Then clear coat that with one of these products. Once cured I'll mask those areas and respray the interior tub my color of choice. I use vallejo air paints religiously for interior paints now and I figure all of these in brand paints would be compatible. I've found that X-22 dissolves vallejo and I don't trust the runny nature of Future Floor Wax.
So for this sort of application would i be better off with the regular acrylic gloss varnish or the tougher acrylic polyurethane ? Secondly do these paints actually gloss well and hold a shine? Comparable to a future or enamel finish? I assume they dont gloss as well as Lacquer