Olle F

I'm on a business trip right now, and found Trumpeter's '63 Nova on sale for $21 at a local Hobby Lobby. I have never tried a Trumpeter kit before, so I would like to know if this kit is any good before I go ahead and buy it. I'm leaving tomorrow, so a quick reply would be greatly appreciated! BTW: I don't know if they are on sale in all Hobby Lobby stores, but if anyone is interested, this is the store in Cape Girardeu, MO, and they have the Nova and the Bonneville, HT's and convertibles on sale.

It's easy to tell when you can scroll back and look at the previous pictures, but first time I saw it, it was a slideshow and it took me a while to figure out how it was done. Neat trick! 8)

Porsches are not really my cup of tea, but I sure appreciate any nicely built model. This is as clean as they come, and it actually looks like the real thing in some of the pictures! 8) And I wish you could get nice, realistic headlights and taillights like that with American kits, that's a feature that really sets it off.

Did you empty your cache memory? That's where the browser stores files (for example images), so they don't have to be downloaded each and every time they appear on a web page. They can stay there for a long time, especially if you always go to the same web sites. So the browser can still pull the image from the cache memory, and it will appear on your screen even if the link is dead. A new window, restart etc. won't work, you have to delete all the temporary files that your browser has stored. The link is obviously dead, so the image must be stored somewhere on your computer.

The link to the picture seems to be dead: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forum/template.../logo_phpBB.gif Those of you who can see it probably still have it stored in your cache memory. Try to clear it (internet options/delete files, for those who use IE), and I bet that it will disappear for you as well.

I suspect that models like Monogram's '57 Bel Air and the "Rampage" '69 Camaro are just artistic interpretations of the real thing. :wink:

That's a bit surprising to me. Never thought that this would happen, but I actually thought that the metalizer sealer would craze enamels. I haven't used metalizers in a while, but as far as I remember, they seem to be laquers of some sort. Did the sealer come off clean, or did it pull any of the metallic enamel with it? I guess the lesson learned is that you shouldn't mix different types of paint. I have had some interesting experiences with that... :roll:

Kinda the same thing as on AMT's '57 Chrysler 300C. The bezels should be painted, with chrome trim around the perimeter. Most of the models I have seen have had all-chrome bezels. Makes me want to call the police. :mrgreen:

That's true. Now when we have Internet, it's easy to find references. I usually go to eBay and sort them by price, hoping that the high end restorations will be correct. They usually have a lot of detailed pictures too, like engine bays and interiors. Granted, all restored cars are not correct, but if you find a few cars that show the same details, you should be pretty safe. And if it still ain't right, who's gonna be able to tell? :wink:

Thanks for the pictures! I love that car, makes me want to build something similar!

Very nice! 8) Got any detail shots of the engine bay?

Really nice, can't wait to see how it turns out! 8) I like what you did to the slicks too, that's a nice touch I haven't seen before. It will go straight into my notes for future projects.

As some of you already know, I moved to TN about 10 years ago and I'm slowly getting back into the hobby again. Would love to start going to shows, but I just don't know where to find them. One problem I'm having is all those names you use for the shows, it seems like you're just supposed to know where it is by seeing the abbreviation. It would be great if you guys could put the location of the show in the subject line, so you'll know without opening the thread. I'm sure it will help a lot of ignorant people like me to browse this forum! :wink:

That looks very neat so far! 8) This model is on my "to-do list", so would you care to share some impressions of the kit itself?

Good advice. It would sure feel good to know that the back side of the dashboard is detailed and fully wired, but who cares. I like to build factory stock, but I still guess a lot, and try to use whatever I happen to have at hand. As long as the model looks good and believable, I'm perfectly happy with it. And after all, who's going to know if the model is 100% correct or not? If a knows-it-all comments on the shotcuts I have taken, I usually say: "Don't you know that they were built like that January-February 1965, due to the delivery problems after the eartquake/strike/cholera outbreak?". That usually sends them back to their library for a while. :wink:

I agree. Some dirt and scuff marks would look just right. I'll make sure to follow this build, there's lots of interesting ideas, for sure! 8)

Sweet! I really like the understated look of a muscle car with dog dishes. 8) BTW: How did you make the strap that holds the heater hoses to the inner fender? That's an idea I would definitely want to steal. :wink:

"Its no Show Winner"... I think I'll join the "yeah, right" crowd here. :wink: That engine is beautiful, especially the realistic metal look. Would love to see this in person!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't Duplicolor a laquer? Seems like you have done it before, but I wouldn't use it over an enamel primer. I'm almost sure the compatibility (or lack thereof) is the problem. I always use Testors enamels throughout, no problems and no surprises, except for my own screw-ups of course... :roll:

Looks great! 8) I really like the stretched rear wheel wells, that's something many model builders overlook or just don't do. It sure gives it a more realistic appearance.

On the same topic: When I'm clearcoating a metallic paint, I seal it by spraying the first coat as thin as possible and let it dry thoroughly before the next coat. The reason is that the clearcoat can dissolve the paint a bit, and make the metallic pigments move around. This will result in a blotchy, uneven finish and in most cases you'll have to repaint the whole thing.

Kinda difficult to be anonymuos in a car like that, isn't it? In my best Holstein voice: "We know that was you tonight. We have an excellent description of this car." :wink:

Honda Accord for the daily commute, '69 Chevelle when the weather allows. Not because it's a show car (far from it), but the windshield wipers don't work very well. :wink:

That's sweet, I love the style and the color combination! As a matter of fact, I'm trying to locate one of those kits right now... :wink:

Ok, here's a picture where you can see how far the floor pan comes down, even with the interior installed flush at the top of the doors. You can see the ends of the floor pan at the arrows. Can't really see anything else than that the tub is too tall, or what do you think?