Snake45

Here are a few of my favorite polished plastic jobs:

Agree completely on the pre-scribing. In fact, I also did that on the '56 Chevy above. Come to think of it, I do it on pretty much everything. It even makes the silver Sharpie easier to use and gives a better finished look.

Oh my yes. I often polish the body if it's a color I like and seems solid and opaque. I do it whenever I can, in fact, just to show off.

Though my eyes could see I still was a blind man Though my mind could think I still was a mad man I hear the voices when I'm dreaming, I can hear them say (Different song...the board combined two posts again:) Just say a word and the boys will be right there With claws at your back to send a chill through the night air Is it so frightening to have me at your shoulder? Thunder and lightning couldn't be bolder I'll write on your tombstone, ''I thank you for dinner'' This game that we animals play is a winner

Englebert!

Very, very nice, and great paint! I'm not a fan of the modern "big wheels" but I have to admit they don't look too awful on this one.

My "forumula" for liquid mask can be found in this thread: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=97763 Here's a '56 Chev I built using the stuff. I first airbrushed the gloss white roof and rubbed it out, then masked it off. Then I airbrushed good old Testor Chrome Silver on all the chrome trim, and masked that off using the liquid and a brush. Yes, this took some time. Then I airbrushed the whole body Black Chrome Trim for semigloss black primer. Ten minutes after the black was dry, I had all the liquid mask off and the body was DONE.

Teenage Dream?

Walk Away Renee, Four Tops. What a fantastic song. Someone should cover that today and make another million dollars from it.

I think you could thin it with either Testors liquid cement or MEK (which is what Testor liquid cement is, basically), but if you have either of those on hand, why bother using the tube junk? I have a tube of Testor glue I bought about 1977. It's still unopened. That's how long it's been since I've used tube glue.

Not the homemade stuff that I use. It has very little tackiness to it at all. And if necessary, it can be removed under warm running water.

There ya go!

It looked to me like there were some sort of natural "break" there, where the trim starts. I could hand-brush right up to that no problem. Now as far as laying the liquid mask down in a straight line on a flat panel, that's a WHOLE 'nother problem.

Lessee, I need at least one Piranha, one "TV" dune buggy, and one '29 A hot rod. Prolly get a '69 Cougar Eliminator if I can find one molded in orange. There's still a bunch of "new" stuff from '13 and '14 I haven't bought yet, so I need to catch up on those, too.

Built ones I've seen definitely look better than their first two tries at this car, but I keep thinking there's something just not right about the finished look of the thing. Haven't been able to put my finger on what it is. I'm gonna take another look at these areas you mention. As you suggest, there might be enough usable stuff in the kit to convert the JoHan '71 and/or the AMT '74 snapper/promo body into a decent looking '70.

She says, Baby if you wanna be wild, you got a lot to learn, close your eyes, Let them melt, let them fire, let them burn Cause in the darkness, there'll be hidden worlds that shine

Interesting modeling problem! I think for that I'd have done the paint, then the foil, then masked the foil with liquid mask (and the paint in the area with tape or whatever) and then shot the Metalizer. Another way would have been to shoot the Metalizer, mask it with liquid mask, and then foil the trim. If the foil pulls up anything that way, it will just be the liquid mask "skin," which could be reapplied if necessary till the job was done. It's all about thinking about what has to be accomplished, and then working the process backward to figger out how you need to get there.

Glad to see you unlocked this thread. I like what you're doing with these cars but reading comments is half the fun of a build thread. If you'd kept it locked, I wouldn't have looked again until you went Under Glass. BTW, that '69 Riv front end looks better on the '67 Impala than it ever did on a Riv. I never liked the front end of that car (prolly because I consider the '66 front end perfect) until just now.

I had that happen on an Italeri B-25. The plastic seemed to be delaminating. My theory is that the styrene was shot into a too-cold mold, and the outer layer cooled and "skinned over" differently from the rest. The kit was unusable.

The trick to using the Metalizers is to do all your other paint first, mask everything off, and then shoot the Metalizer. (Learned this doing model airplanes.)

Is it worse than the undersized, malproportioned Revell '34 Ford 3-window?

Fabulous idea. In fact, I always rough up the backside of household foil with Scotchbrite when I use the Micro Metal Foil Adhesive because it eliminates the tendency of the stuff to bead up. I get an effect I think might be similar to what he's looking for. The Scotchbrite might work for him on this, too.

I'd use the dull side of household kitchen foil for that, with Micro Metal Foil Adhesive.

Very true. My theory is that the nose-high look caught on because of published photos of race cars taking off at the starting line. The NHRA rulebooks actually said that the body should sit level, or with a slight rake, with the bottom edge of the body no higher than the centerline of the axles (front and rear) and no lower than the lower edge of the wheels. Not that everything that ran in those days strictly followed NHRA rules, of course. Back on topic: I like this idea and what you're doing. I've had in mind for some time to do a '49 Ford gasser, just since I have a kit sitting around I don't know what else to do with. '49-'51 Ford gassers seem to be pretty rare but there doesn't seem to be any reason why there wouldn't have been some. Dunno yet what engine I'm gonna use--leaning toward an early Hemi just cause I have a few of them laying around.