addicted2modeling

man, it's just been frustrating to paint this part of the truck. All week its been raining like nonstop. I could have paint it in the garage, but its a high possibility that the spray mists might land somewhere inside the garage, despite having a big box to contain the paint. Also, the fumes can be a hazard and hard to vent off. If I open the garage door, the humidity might come in. I tried to polish it but revealed some orange peel. Oh man I am soo upset. I wish there's something I can do to fix it. I been painting this since Monday.

how could you tell it's humidity? Today was sunny in upper 80s.

I did about 2 more heavy coats of my victory red paint from duplicolor. Before that, it was primed twice, then followed by 3 light mist coats. Now I did two heavy wetcoats, unfortunately within 20 minutes apart from each other which, I feel was a mistake but some parts were kinda pinkish despite the heavy application maybe it wasn't applied properly lol but anyway it come out nice and smooth but some parts of the paint have some shine while the majority were flat, but nonetheless, it has that red pigment I was expecting. Should I reapply another wet coat or just let it cure and polish it? Remember, I am gonna apply a clearcoat after I paint the lower end in pewter metallic.,

May I see the body work?

Do you have pics of your project?

Thank you! It's coming out really nice, here are the complete interior assembly pics. Excuse some of messy brush strokes in the picture, i did tried my best though.

That looks very good! What brand of paint did you use?

Thanks man. I'll probably apply the heavy coat tomorrow. Right now its been raining like crazy here. I usually spray on the coats, then take it to my vacant room with the fan running to let it dry overnight. It's going to be a two-tone color truck. This is what I want it to look like.

Hello, I just applied a 3rd, "light mist" coat on my Silverado model kit. It has been primed with duplicolor's gray primer and base coated with 3 light mist coats of duplicolor's GM, victory red paint. For some odd reason, it appears to be pinkish after drying. Is this normal for the 3 light mist coats that I've applied? Would it be red after a heavy coat application? I sprayed it on as red in the light mist coat phase and it dries up as pinkish.

Here is my first light mist coat of Victory Red. Do I need to sand at this point or just let it dry for 35 minutes and spray another light mist coat?

Yes I'm going to be using a Duplicolor Perfect Match, Victory Red lacquer paint as well. Should I put another thin coat or wet coat? And is Testor's Wet Look clear coat suitable with Duplicolor's lacquer?

I just did 2 light, even coats of Duplicolor Scratch filler primer in gray on my 99 Silverado model kit cab. I wet sand the cab with either a 600 or 480 grit sandpaper from Alpha Precision Abrasives, the brand of sandpaper normally sold at Hobby Lobby. As i was wet-sanding, I've noticed that some areas had the primer sanded off, exposing the bare plastic. It's small areas of the model kit, but I wonder if whether I should spray another thin coat of primer or one wet coat of primer or just don't worry about it and proceed to base color. PS. the reason I said either 480 or 600 grit sandpaper is because these sandpapers AREN'T labeled except on the packaging, but it DOESN'T point out which specific sandpaper corresponds to the marked grit. I used the tan color sandpaper, which I assume must be the 600 grit, because the red film is the finest of them all, which is 1000 grit.

I am building my '99 Silverado, stock edition from revell in a Victory Red over Pewter metallic with a medium gray interior. This is part 1 of my build. Parts 2 and 3, will have more content as I finish it up. This is my second Silverado model kit in line, hence, no. 2. My goal is to collect 10 of these trucks and 5 of them in GM Factory colors for the Silverado pickups during the years of 1999-2006. The other 5 will be painted with Tamiya's exotic colors. For part 1, I will just show my interior work-in-progress. It is painted in Tamiya's AS-7, neutral gray to closely replicate the OEM medium gray interior of the Silverado. Black, inserted parts are painted in Tamiya's flat black bottle paint.

I did polish my 99 custom Silverado Deep Metallic blue and it the metallic finish was still intact. I think I l let the paint dry for about a day afterwards. But as I was polishing I've notice some paint got on my terry cloth..I used Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. Sharpie marker would be good, but doesn't it emits a slight purple hue when you have light shining on it at different angles?

I'm in the process of building a '99 Silverado model kit, the stock version without the drop package. I want to paint it in Duplicolor's GM victory red over pewter metallic...I have a few questions to ask before I paint the body. 1. Should I use another brand of hobby-grade clearcoat, like the rare Tamiya TS-13 Clear or Testor's "Wet Look" clear to cover my Duplicolor'sbasecoat paint? 2. Since "Perfect Paint" by Alex Kustov mentioned that metallic paint is best clear coated before polishing, should I take heed to his advice? The lower portion of the truck will be painted in a metallic paint, Duplicolor's pewter metallic. And since the top portion is non-metallic do I have to clearcoat it together with the lower portion before polishing? 3. If I were to go against Kustov's advice and just polish the whole thing prior to clear coating, should I mask off the top end so that the removed paint on the polish cloth won't smear the bottom part? 4. And are Gundam black markers are idea for painting the fine black trim lines the front window outer gaskets? This is how I want to paint my model truck like.

Will brake fluid work as well? I used brake fluid when I used Testor's enamel gloss cream color on my seats. I was highly dissatisfied with the paint so I submerged them in brake fluid and scrub some paint off and it took it very well, but I don't know about the body if its ok or not.

The decals are not a big concern to especially the flames, I'm fine without them. So basically I have to start all over? This time I know I will NEVER buy a Krylon clear coat for plastics no more.

I used Krylon Fusion Clear Coat for plastics and what a mess it made my truck to be. What can I do to fix this mess? To be honest my truck was better off with the polished basecoat than with the applied Krylon Fusion Clear Coat for plastics. I applied clear coat so I can protect my decals and finish. The Silverado custom model kit was painted with Dupli Color scratch filler primer purchased from Auto Zone and the base coat was Tamiya's TS-53, Deep Metallic Blue. So sad my model truck looks horrible now. Any help in restoring this model kit would be gladly appreciated. I tried to do the polishing with Meguiar's Ultimate compound to fix it, but it was limited, I still see an orange peel finish. Enclose is the picture of the truck before the clear coat application.