drummerdad

The Titanic sunk because of a series of bad decisions. The engineers, the captain, even the crew just made bad decisions. There is a show on Netflix about Titanics final mystery, and it makes sense. The Titanic sailed into the ice storm. The conditions decayed so fast, the crew didnt react fast enough. The temperature dropped several degrees, causing an inverse mirage, much like you see on the road when its hot. This caused the horizon to distort, which caused the iceberg to stay hidden until the last minute. Then when the iceberg was visible, it was too late. The crew tried to steer a 1000ft boat around an object, at around 20 knots. They also botched the rescue effort, because of poor training. Other ships either didnt see the distress call, or thought it was random, again because of the mirage effect. Heres a random fact for ya: The Titanic used a new type of flooring, never before used, and was very expensive at the time. It was linoleum.

Wow. Very nice.

I love the outlaw style cars. Looks good. Ill be watching. Your builds are always inspirational.

You will probably have to go to your user settings, and delete some of your older pictures, before you can post another picture. Also, fyi, in the future, you can lower the picture resolution, and/or upload smaller pictures by cropping, or resizing. Im following along, and want to see more pictures as well.

1) 1/8 scale Iroc, built as a drag radial car, or a drag week/fastest street car shootout participant. I have the kit, just need about $800 in parts. 2) 1/12 drag bike. Built after the extreme street bikes, stretched swingarm, massive turbo, lowered... 3) Dually or tow vehicle for my 4 car hauler. There are a bunch I would work on, if I had space, time and money.

You decide to build car X in your favorite scale. You need a special part to make it what you want, but the part is available in EVERY scale, except the scale you decided to build in. So, you search google, local shops, forums, ebay, the amazon jungle, and the moon to find a picture of the exact part you want...but its out of production, or custom made by some wizard using black magic, and you cant get it.

Thank you Dave. I started this chassis, then realized I was about to mess up again, so I waited. I wanted to get the engine/ trans combo sorted out, then the rearend. The kit comes with a 9 inch, I might be able to use it, with some 4 link plates. I have a hemi from another project, that might work also, but Im not sure yet. Im going to finish my 1/24 scale car hauler first, and get a few models on it. Then Im going to start on this one heavily. I think it has a ton of potential. I am learning a lot watching you and a bunch of the other guys on this forum.

I dont know if its been mentioned already,but what about...BAE. I guess it is supposed to mean Before Anyone Else? I see it in memes all over the place. It makes me want to kick a puppy.

Agreed. I think it would be different. Weve seen the nitrous, and blown engines, not that I would ever get tired of them. I would love to see you do a direct drive centrifugal also. I know it wasnt an option, but it would be killer.

I would pay maybe $75 for a kit I wanted. If its a super detailed kit, like some of the Pocher motorcycles, I might pay $250. I guess thats why I dont have one. I would pay good money for some 1/8 scale wheels and tires, (realistic drag tires, not RC stuff that looks like RC stuff). Its like looking for unicorn feathers.

Amazing work. I am in awe of some of you guys. I tried to put a 1/24 liberty shifter together the other day, and could barely hold the pieces without dropping them. Its insane you can machine, and then assemble these parts, with SCREWS, not glue. Incredible.

Ok. Not to hijack, but I have a question. How do you determine the placement of components like engine trans, seat, etc? It appears you have extensive knowledge of race chassis', leading me to believe you work in a chassis shop? Ive been watching some of these builds(yours especially, but others as well), and correct me if Im wrong, but you and some of the other artists/experts, start with the engine and trans, body, rearend and wheels, then you lay it out how you want, following a few unbending rules, such as the side bar that must attach between the shoulder and elbow. I think I remember you having access to some of the sfi specs as well. I know its impossible to make rules that fit every application, so most are rather vague. But is that all there is? I think I may have to start over on a project I have a lot of hours in, because I started the chassis first, before I picked an engine/trans combo, and wheels. For the record, I follow all your builds, and I even stalk you on photobucket. Its incredible skill being displayed. I wish I had half the skill. It looking good already.

You guys make me feel like an amateur. Here is some of my stuff. The trailer carries four cars, and the car on the bottom will ride on a platform that slides out. The tongue will lift to allow it to move. I also have to mod the main ramp, to allow one section to lift, because the angle on the top is too sharp to allow a car to drive over it. Here is the tongue, and the platform. Here is the start of the chassis for a drag week corvette. I have struggled with the engine trans combo, and still havent found one I like. I started the turbos, and they look ok to me (they are not finished in this picture), but I also made an F3 procharger, that could be installed as a direct drive unit. Im also not happy with the chassis, and might start over. Here is the corvette and trailer. I threw this trailer together in about 45 minutes, so It is crooked, and unfinished. Ill fix it before Im finished. I want to finish the vette first. Im working on my scratchbuilding. Im getting better, If I can keep interested. I think Im going to work on some motorcycles I recently bought, just so I can complete something. I wont modify them.....as much.

Its nice to know Im not alone. I love the super detailed models, but I dont have the skill. I recently tried to assemble the 1/24 scale liberty trans shifter. Holy cow. That thing is small. I dont see how some of you guys do it. I tend to get frustrated very quickly. Especially during paint. I HATE painting a model. So I start a model, with a plan to detail to the max, then I get frustrated because I cant get something to work, or look right, then I have to paint it....And it goes in the pile of unfinished models.

Its nice to know some of the office dwellers hate the lingo as well. I work on helicopters, as an avionics installer. Whenever a "suit" comes out, and starts throwing around the office lingo, and asking questions we resort to our own language: "Yes sir. Im just installing a floating insert for this GDL69, using the bedvu drawing, and the AC43.13, making sure I reference the structural repair manual, and other approved data, which as you know is an FAA requirement. Ive used a #30 drill bit, and now Im switching to a 7/16 rotabroach, then Ill core the honeycomb, and fill it with Magnolia 6398. After it sets, we will begin the wiring using MS approved teflon covered wire, that has been laser marked with an approved designator, and install the d-sub connector, and #360 pins, using our calibrated AFM-8 crimpers, and a k42 die..." Im sure somewhere on the internet, there is a forum for guys who love office lingo, and they are complaining about how we use "common" language.

I cant see this happening, yet. The government, and in my opinion the manufacturers, have been trying to stop the aftermarket for decades. I think SEMA, NHRA, IHRA, SCCA and a few dozen more racing sanctioning bodies, with a lot more initials, will fight this and beat it, for now. As far as donks, and big wheels, I dont get it, but its a preference thing. I love rear wheel, V8 cars, and I despise the imports and the fwd cars. I have a lot of friends who are opposite. Its their right as much as mine. The problem with this is, when they start taking away your right to go over the top on YOUR car that you bought with YOUR money, they have went too far. Just remember.. "The best way to take control over a people and control them utterly is to take a little of their freedom at a time.......in this way the people will not see those rights and freedomes being removed until past the point at which these changes cannot be reversed." Adolf Hitler.

I started this car hauler awhile back, and have set it aside for a bit. It will hold four cars. I have a ton of work to do on it, suspension, sides, hydraulics, etc..but its a start. Not as nice as some of the other here, but it should look good when Im done. I plan on making the flat portion rise up now. I didnt think about it when I started, but it will have to to allow a car to roll over it. The tongue will also tilt, allowing the car underneath to be unloaded. It is a triple axle.

Nice. I love the outlaw cars. Ill be watching this one.

This is a nice build. I love trucks, especially old ones. Looks great so far.

Ahhh. I had seen the color coded drawings, but didnt know the sizes. Now I have a bunch of parts to get in the mail, and Ill see if I can resurrect this old glue bomb. Thanks guys.

So, Ive been fretting over building a drag week car. I wanted to make my 1/8 scale iroc into one, but the costs of printed parts is a little high for me. Ill eventually get it done, but I have to pace myself. I cant justify spending $500 on parts right now. I have started a brass collection, and will be practicing with it. In the meantime, I pulled this wreck out of storage. It was a mess. Ignore the wheels, and the hole in the hood. The 1/16 parts are cheaper, and I can get a lot more in resin. I have started the chassis, but I have some questions for you gurus. I used .100 inch tubing, which is roughly 1-5/8, if Im correct. Is that too big for the main floor tubing? All the research I have done shows a lot of 1-1/2 inch and 1-1/4 inch tubing, but I dont have the sfi spec for a 25.3 chassis, or a promod chassis. The plan for the model is, a direct drive centrifugal supercharged engine (I have a hemi, I might use it, or get a 429 ford) with a liberty trans, 11 inch strange rear, 4-link, gear vendors overdrive unit, water/methanol injection, dual fuel system, adjustable suspension, and of course, a trailer hitch that might get a trailer. Should be nice, if I can pull it off. Any input on scale, tube size, or parts suppliers would be helpful.

Here is what Im working on right now. Ive posted before that Im obsessed with the fastest street car shootout, and the drag week cars. This is my take on it. Its still in work, and very rough right now. I know it isnt the caliber some of you can achieve, but I think it looks ok. The car will have a large cubic inch engine (probably a BBC, I havent decided. Im using the hemi as a mock up), fuel injection with twin turbos (right in the front, getting air through the "corvette" license plate area), a fabricated water-to-air intercooler, and run on street tires. Itll have a small fuel cell in the nose for the alcohol, it will have a trailer hitch, and pull a trailer, though maybe not the one pictured. The car will sit as low as possible, just like it does now. Itll have an electrically adjustable suspension (not really, I mean simulated), that allows ride height adjustments, allowing it to drop at the track, and raise up for the street. Itll have a big gas tank in the back, and two seats also. I still have a lot of work to do, especially on the turbos, but I only get about 2-3 hrs a week to work on it. I know I have a ton of bars to add to the cage, and its supposed to be a 25.3 chassis, so there will be gussets and other bars added to try and fit this sfi rating. I also have to add the front struts and brackets, and suspension linkage, the rear 4-link and the brackets for that. Then there are the headers, and exhaust, the fuel system, the dash (factory corvette), parachutes, wheelie bars, door hinges and panels, tubs......

http://www.gundamplanet.com/mg-rgm-96x-jesta.html I have always loved robots, and mechs. I remember watching Robotech, and transformers, and I always wanted to build a Mechwarrior. Recently I started getting back into modeling, although its mostly cars and trucks. I have been working on my styrene fabrication, and think I might want to try a model like the one in the link above. I have a question though; How big are they? They dont list an actual size on most. I saw one listed as almost 4ft tall, but a lot are advertised as around 6 in. My plan is to use the basic frame, and then customize it, with some ideas I have been working on. I would like to find one maybe a foot tall, or slightly taller. I think anything smaller and I wont be able to get the details in. Any advice or pictures would be appreciated.

I was thinking the plastic would sag, thanks for the clarification guys. When I start the 1/8 camaro, Ill use brass. At this point, I am working on learning to build the chassis from scratch. I have started 2 different chassis from styrene. They are 1/24 scale, but they are the type of chassis I am looking for; the NMCA style street cars, running in the low 6s with a 25.2 or 25.3 spec. Once I learn how to put one together well, Ill look into using brass, and stepping up the scale. Plus the large scale stuff is expensive; the 3d printed engines, rearends, transmissions and things are pricey, plus the tubing and tools, etc..I never could find a resin engine, and the parts with the kit would never pass for competition grade pieces. The 1/24 is a lot cheaper, and easier at this point. I just recently started back into modeling, so Im low on tools, equipment, knowledge,skill and space. But I am already getting better.

Sorry about resurrecting an old thread. I want to be as accurate as possible, but I dont know how do to gauge the bar diameter? I can see pictures of the type of cars I want to build, and guestimate the position of the bars, but accurately scaling them is important. Most searches for tube diameter refer me to SFI, for the 25.2(b?) cert. I can do the math to convert a 1.5" bar, and a 1", and a 1.6"... to scale but how can I find out which bar is what size on an actual chassis, without spending $35 for the cert?