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E St. Kruiser50

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Everything posted by E St. Kruiser50

  1. I LOVE THIS You guys got me - Got a long hate PM to boot today from one of you guys accusin me of bein' a charlaton and a fake - guess it must be true, 'cause ya'll say so. YA'LL MUST BE TIRED OF MY LYIN', LOOKIN' FOR ATTENTION, AND CARRYIN' ON AND SUCH THAT'S OK. I'll just wait 'till yer all done before I post anymore on this thread. Guy that PM'd me said the leather looked like it came from an elephants a$$ - HEY, MAYBE IT DOES . GUESS THIS SIMPLE PLASTIC HOBBY STUFF JUST TURNED INTO SOMETHIN' WAY MORE SERIOUS . HEY - YA BETTER TELL MODEL MARTIN TO VOID HIS THREAD ABOUT
  2. GRAVEL-ROAD CHROME. Now back to the leather .
  3. The texture of the grain is pretty amplified by the magnified close-ups of the pics. In person the leather has a rich, soft, smooth, pleasing look, that only comes from real leather. All the vinyles I've seen, are way thicker, not nearly as soft and stretchy, and the grain doesn't appear nearly to scale as some leathers. Flatliner brings up a good point about choice of materials. That's why, to me, "HANDS ON" in choosing any of your material is always the best . And yes, there are leathers that are much smoother, or with some experience you can accomplish that yourself. (See yell
  4. Here's a pic of some of the skins I have. Mostly goat, some pig, and one deer skin. Here's a pic of the two leather's I'll be using for the project. I like contrast, and these two colors are pretty neutral, but very rich, especially in person, and go with most any body color combo's. The tan I use more than any other color just for that reason, and it seems to show the leather graining and all it's best attributes. And here's the color combo as seen in the last pic, in a finished project of mine that's in a private collection. He owns 20 pieces from me.
  5. Snake skin uhh-I don't think so, but if you GOOGLE, I think you'll find what you're lookin for, maybe in your area. Good luck - dave
  6. No parade here David, but we do get a lot of rain in Oregon . Hope you enjoy the thread. Hope to see some helpful idea's from you in the future also .
  7. Or you could stay with the portable breakdown idea, and use Velcro pieces in the four corners of the sheetmetal box . Plus 3M makes an inexpesive role of soft spongy sealing material for sealing home windows, that could form a seal between the pieces of Velcro, so there is no gap to cause fume leakage. Any Home Depot-like store could supply you the seal, and Joanne fabrics could take care of the velcro.
  8. For me .040" is way too thick to do anything workable or scale. Do a little "detective work", in your area and see what you can find. Originally I had the same problem, but I didn't settle 'till I found what I wanted. It took me a while, but I did find it .
  9. Several of the cars in the pics have real wood, and some are "Faux" painted, a wet 'N' wet multi-color painting technique I use. Been a wood worker for decades, and love exotic woods from around the world, so whenever I get a chance or a whim , I'll head across town to a place that supplies rare woods all over the world - LUCKY ME that it's so close here in town. One of my favorites is a beautifully figured "THUYA BURL" from Algeria and Morocco in Northern Africa. Incredbly beautiful and rare, a very small sliver of this wood can cost $75 - $100. I save even the smallest scraps in a bagg
  10. First off, I need to qualify how I post a thread. Guys have at time's complained over "CAPITAIZED TEXT", as they feel they're being yelled at - "I DON'T YELL - EVER". I capatalize to get attention, and to make a point about what I think is important - PERIOD . To me sharing is something we should all do to help each other. If someone is afraid to share their "Secrets", then to me they probably have a pretty shallow sense of their own skills and abilities - SAD. Never been afraid or threatened by trying something new - I LOVE A CHALLANGE - IT'S EXCITING TO ME . Something in my natur
  11. Last examples. This one has a red leather interior - hard to see.
  12. Like in painting or anything else, I think you should be able to have some sucess and experience at what your sharing, and be qualified to show others how to do something. So I'll start out by showing some finished examples of my previous work. Several of these have won awards at major shows in the past, in Calif., Oregon, Washington, and at the GSL in Utah, as well as being in many magazines, inluding a cover shot and a feature article. In the next few days I'll discuss such things as the tools and supplies you'll need, the various leathers, where to get leather, how to apply it usi
  13. Sure Harry, in 1/8th scale Pocher kit that the leather comes with it .
  14. I've has several people ask me about doing a tutorial on doing leather covered seats, and door panels Is there any interest in me doing that?? I would include where to look for materials, the process for adherring it properly, and design techniques and considerations.
  15. I have used this product for nearly ten years, and it sticks to everything I have used it on in my model building, including alum, brass pieces, and every paint and plastic I have used it on. In my town I get it at a variety store or auto parts store. It's made by Permatex, a well known company in the auto industry, so shouldn't be too difficult to find.
  16. After reading posts here on mills, I went to Ebay and typed in "SHERLINE". This complete mini-shop came up that is at $350.00 right now with 8 1/2 days left. Tons of support pieces and a few upgrades - a complte set-up. Who knows what it will go for, but thought that there are some here who would at least be interested in checking it out.
  17. My next "big boy toy" in miniature This a 4 axis table top CNC - almost a machining center, but no tool changer available yet - I'M WAITING. The table moves 18" X 10" X 10" on the Z axis, with a very small footprint - around 18" X 24". The computor controlled rotary table is the 4th axis. You can also order it with an embedded computor. Also available is a touch-probe digitizer with all the software for copying any existing item, and then duplicating it as many times as you want, in whatever material you want. Comes turn-key with all the software, and modeling capabilities. Lots of a
  18. Hey Sam - You should post more pics - Came out very nice .
  19. We have about 6 or 8 contests a year locally in the Portland area. Most of the guys build enough that we always see new stuff from most, but there are a few who like to keep bringing back the same models year after year. I think it's up to the builder. People enter contests for a lot of different reasons. As long as no rules against it, WHY NOT . For me, I enter 3 or 4 of the local contests a year, and then retire the cars, or go out of state. The Washington guys have several contests a year too, with the Canadian guys coming down, so I can always go up there to see some of my friends.
  20. Not sure, but this may be the car kit you're referring to. I'm sure this is the one Andy is talking about. Very, very nice kits. Super detailed, with a ton of parts, and everything fits beautifully. Got this one started with opening doors and so forth. Also have a 500 K Special Roadster started that is a modified version of the 1934 Mercedes JoHan roadster. Nice kit also. These are available on eBay most of the time for what I think is a reasonable cost most of the time. Here's a pic. As Andy stated, this is from the Gold Cup Series.
  21. Having more than one project going at a time helps to take your attention off one project, and focus on doing other things. Hurrying is to me, the worst enemy to completing any type of project properly , including model buiding of any kind. That aside, I think James idea really is pretty cool .
  22. The only Plasticote Primer I've ever used successfully is their white T-237 sandable primer. Lays down smooth and sands beautifully when it dries for at least 24 hours. The other primer I use is a gray Duplicolor High-build primer, which can be decanted and thinned, and sprayed through an airbrush for those who think it builds up to much. Sands wonderfully also. The thing to remember about priming and painting is that the conditions under which you spray makes all the difference. That's why real-time car painters spray in a heated, lit and well ventilated spray booth. Most guys here fr
  23. I agree with Bob Downie and others here that "Best" is a relative term that each of us determine for ourselves. We all have our own favorite "WEAPONS OF CHOICE" that we deam the best for each of our "Mini-Treasures" we build. Time and experimentation with different paints and polishing products will settle the question for you. It boils down to lot's of practice and samples to you find that "Majic Formula" that is the "BEST" for you, and suits your style. My 2cts. - I don't use enamels or hobby paints much except Tamiya lacquers, and never their clear, as I have an automotive spray lac
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