Karmodeler2

In Atlanta this year, I was really motivated at Winston Mitchell’s work, and if you have never seen his work, you are really missing out on some killer, creative paint jobs….not to mention the creative model itself. Words really fall short when you try to describe his work. After talking with him about lace and how to use it, I went home and was intimidated by the whole process. Then my friend Morgan Barclay gave me some inspiration and motivation to just try it and convinced me that it’s not that hard. He was right. He said put a dark color on top and a light one on bottom. I guess the hardest part of this project was going into Hobby Lobby and convincing the lady that I was wanting to buy some lace for a “Lace Paint Jobâ€, which naturally she had never heard of before. I’m sure she thought I was a little weird. I shot a HOK FBC gold and then put the lace over the model and shot HOK Razberry, then HOK Candy Apple Red then some PPG clear with a little of both mixed in along the way. I shot some spoons first and practiced with some shading and other techniques before I shot the roof and truck. The light color will be a cream and the best one for this is Tamiya racing white. It’s a soft cream that will really make the Razberry pop! Thanks for looking! David

Lyn, I am up in Jax and if you still need help I can come and help. I can also see if Wayne can come too. Just let me know. I will need to know where to meet and it might be closer to 1130 for me because of church. David

I have several sizes and shapes that I have cast for my personal use. I can possibly sell you what you need if you can give me the exact diameter of what you are looking for. I have clear, and clear with scribed lines. I also have some that I made the masters for, and then cast. I use a UV stable, crystal clear resin. You will need to use a micrometer and give me a decimal equivalent (like .320 or .288) for me to help you. If you tell me, "it's about an eighth of an inch", I can't help you. I can also cast about any "primary color" lenses, and some shades in between. David

Hutchings......is that you? how ya been?

He might not have it up yet, since he just ordered 1000 of them from China (I think that's what he said in ATL to me, it was a large amount). I was lucky enough to get one of the ones he cast here in the states. If he does not have them, he soon will. You could email him or call him and he should have an answer for you. Good luck. David

Hey oh great ones with tons of knowledge of 1/16 scale kits, Can anyone guide me to a kit that might have one of these. I am very unfamiliar with this scale and don't have any kits or knowledge of what kits had what combos. Thanks, David also, if you know of a resin caster that has one, that's okay too. Thanks!

If you will click on the link that I sent in the other email, then at the top of the pic of the truck, advance to the next slide, there are 16 photos for your enjoyment. David

I don't have any pics of it, but Gregg took about 15 or so, so I don't know if more pics would really show you anything you haven't already seen in Gregg's pics. This is a Jimmy Flintstone kit. While it is expensive ($80), it was a lot of fun to build. Mine was solid resin (and I mean SOLID resin...very heavy....Jimmy said that it has $25 worth of resin in it), the new ones are lighter and should be available from him. He is having them spun cast so they don't waste so much resin. I was happy with the build and Jimmy had Gregg take all those pics because Jimmy said he was going to use them in his catalog to showcase his truck kits for sale. He said a cabover version is on it's way with a longer wheelbase!! Can't wait!! Both kits are rather large too.....somewhere between 1/20 and 1/18...just not sure where. David

Hey Ben, Here is a link to some pics Gregg took in ATL and it shows the allclad I was talking about. The grille,bumpers, rims, tops of air cleaners, headlights, horns, stacks, and lights on top of cab where allclad. I used MM classic black, but with enamels, you have to let them cure, not only dry, because they settle over time. When it settles, it will change the finish if you do not allow enough cure time. Some guys use dehydrators. The finish is not nice on the rear bumper and some of the front as I did not allow enough cure time (I was impatient) and wanted to finish it. But you can see that some of the parts do look like chrome. The other "chrome" is BMF, like the straps on the tanks, cleaners, and frame. Good luck. David http://www.modelcarsmag.com/SouthernNNL09/...s/page_465.html?

I knew IT!!!! You got eyes in the back of your head too!!! Just like my mom!

It's tongue and cheek George........I thought you were old enough to have thicker skin than that!!!! I was using that as a slight way of nudging "hellonwheels" to put his name on the bottom before Harry got to em!!! (yes, I know it's the rules....look at my sig line!) You gotta learn to smile.....read my quotes!!!! Sincerely, David

yes, "hellonwheels3 or 4 or whatever"..(.make sure you put your name in the bottom portion of you box or the web nazi's will get you!!!) there was a show that has since been cancelled, that was an invite only. Some saw it as a snub at those who were not invited, some saw it as a waste of time, others were just p----ed off about the whole thing. But it did exist, and yes there were about 100-150 builders who were invited to attend and they were looking for the most working features...even to the point of valves and lifters and the like....in 1/24 automotive subject matter only......which is what I had a problem with...if you hold a contest for the top builders of the "world", then scale and subject matter should be irrelevant.....a great model builder is a great model builder....regardless of scale and subject!!! David

Hey Ben, one thing to keep in mind is that the only allclad paints that need the gloss base coat are Stainless, Polished Aluminum, Chrome (and there may be one more). ALL of their others can go straight onto plastic with no primer (although they do not recommend this, it can be done......you will learn a lot this way by just trying things and not being afraid to fail once or twice along the way,....that's how some of these tips come to be!!!!!). Also, get you a bag of plastic spoons at the Dollar store for about a.......yes, a dollar,.......and try your practice shots on the back of the spoon. On the inside of the spoon write what you sprayed on the back of the spoon. It's a cheap way to practice....and if you drill holes in the handles, you can hang them up with the back of the spoon showing for your own "paint chip" rack, and when you need a color you like, grab the spoon, look on the inside to see how you mixed it, and there you go. It's also helpful in repairing a model that you mixed a custom color for...and forgot how you mixed it!!!!! BLACK BASES ONLY One thing to keep in mind with the "black bases" needed for the particular allclads: these paints are translucent, not opaque. The light needs to pass through them, hit the base, and come back up through to give you the "Chrome" look(or one of the others). You can use dark colors, then put a coat of Future on the part, then allclad it. As long as the final coat had the deep shine, you will have the reflective property you are looking for. The best result I have found (and you will find many on this board, this is just mine) is to use a double action Paasche airbrush with NO MORE THAN 4 to 5 PSI. Put a cheap surgical glove on your left hand (if you are right handed) and hold the part in your left hand. Take your airbrush and push down all the way for the air, and slowly pull back on the trigger while spraying your index finger around your first knuckle. You will start to see the allclad come out in a very fine mist or spinkle(you need the glove to see this, that's why the glove) and while you are holding your trigger finger still, move your gun from your knuckle to your part you are holding with your fingers on your left hand. Rotate the part and let the allclad "sprinkle" onto the part. Because you are opening the hole on the gun to such a small opening, it tends to clog real easy and fast. No problem. Put the gun back over on your knuckle, pull back a little more aggressively, clear the clog, and then start the misting process again, then move it over to the part, rotate the part, and repeat. It takes about 5-8 times of doing this....but man!!! What great chrome!!!! While this may take some time, it WILL keep your chrome looking like chrome, and not some fancy silver paint. This technique has worked for me countless times. I wish you luck! (you can do this on spoons too....shoot the black, future if you want it, then the allclad....you can play with pressures, flows and the like and not have to mess up the real thing while you are learning). Experience is the best teacher.....after all it should be....it's the most expensive! David

Hey guys, being a 1/24 guy, I am starting a project that will look so much better in a larger scale such as 1/16 or 1/12. My problem is I am unfamiliar with what is available in this scale. I would like to find a tire that is close to the 1:1 which is 305/40/22. Basically this is 305 mm wide(or about 12 inches wide....12.007874 to be exact, but I think 12 will do) , and 4.8 inches tall in the side wall in the 1:1 world This would be 3/4 inch wide and .300 tall on the side wall (a little over 5/16 of an inch) in 1/16 scale. (over all height would be 1.975...almost 2 inches) This would be 1 inch wide and .400 ( a little under 7/16 of an inch) in the 1/12 world. (overall height would be 2.63 a little over 2 1/2 inches) Now, after all these numbers, is there anyone who might have some guidance for me? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, David

Lets see if this one worked....if not, I give up.....you will just have to imagine!!

See if this worked....if not....sorry! <a href="http://s194.photobucket.com/albums/z83/Karmodeler2/Bad%20Snake/?action=view¤t=P7170353.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z83/Karmodeler2/Bad%20Snake/P7170353.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Can you have too much "muscle" in a muscle car? and does a "modified" '71 'Cuda count? /Users/davidmorton/Desktop/IMG_7975-th.jpg

Thanks for you input Andy, I was interested in what you had to say. Thanks! David

I think I was at this show as I remember the mustang and the controversy over it. If the 49 Ford was a pick up, I think that was mine.......and thanks for the compliment....it's not a sterile operating room, but it's close!!. David

My argument is not as you stated. My argument is what is considered aftermarket (or lack of skill on the builder) and where do you draw the line. If I can purchase machine parts to enhance my model and I can purchase a paint job to enhance my model, then I have purchased something to make my model look better by buying skills I don't have. So why is paint a taboo and machined items not? (purchased ones that is) If a market exist for machined items (or photo etch or resin or whatever) and a market exist for painted bodies, then where is there a difference. And if you are judging a builder on his skills, are you going to deduct points because he did not machine his parts but bought them, and would you credit points for him doing his own paint? David

I would have to say that machining and doing your own photo etch needs to be skills one needs to become proficient at building detailed models. I understand your side of this argument because you and I are on the same side. I was playing devil's advocate because this argument about "pre painted bodies by other than the builder" was posed to me by Gustuvson at Salt Lake 2 years ago and we had a good debate on the subject. I was wanting to see what others would have to say on the matter here on this forum. I can see the argument both ways, and would like to see more input. I had a builder in Toledo this year ask me how much I would charge for a paint job? I never really gave him an answer because deep down, I don't know how he could take a body that I have painted, build the truck, and then enter it in a show as his own. My conscience would not let me do that. One of my mentor's, Ricky Couch, had a model in Salt Lake (I think 4 years ago) and he had machined items that his friend Jerel Wolfe had done for him. Ricky put this on the info sheet for the model and credited Jerel for the work he had done. That's the gentleman's way of doing it. And what if two builders scratch build a model using all the available skills between them? Do they enter it in the contest as a dual built model crediting the work of each builder and the parts that each made? And is there a problem with this? If both guys are top builders, and combine their skills to build a model, what's the difference if they each put one model on the table that they built individually or put one model down that they both helped build? David

I have to commend the staff of the Toledo NNL this year for taking steps to correct a problem that made it easier for an entrant to cheat last year. This behavior is despicable and I have to agree with some other post on this topic: if you need a trophy that bad, go have one made that says you are the "Best Model Builder in the Universe". And if you cheated to get it, does it really feel like you won it? Or do you have feelings when you decide to throw morals out the window and do anything you can "outside of the norm" to win a trophy? As long as there are contest for ANYTHING, you will have people cheating. That's life. It's up to us to either accept it or discipline those who are caught (i.e. ban them from contest and provide proof that the entrant had cheated to other clubs so they can be on the look out for the behavior too. You should also provide this to the entrant and inform them that they are being eliminated from the contest and prohibited for a year from entering in your show). And yes, this is suppose to be fun!! David

Hey Andy, Does this also apply to paint? and if not, why? If some one wanted me to paint a car and paid me for it, then assembled it, why is that different than one guy getting machine parts that he paid for, then assembling the model? The first guy did not paint the model, but had it done, while the second guy did not machine the parts, but had it done. Each person paid for a particular aspect of the model...where is the difference? David