Karmodeler2

Hey Nick, I think I have already given you these pics, but if not, then here they are. The first is a roll back I built from scratch (from the back of the cab reward: the cab is the stake bed truck). There are a few shots of the underneath. I asked a guy in a parking lot who was dropping of a car if he would put his roll back through it's paces and let me photograph it. He did and I went home and built this from the photo's I took. Best research you can do and most tow guys will be impressed that you want to build a model of what they drive. The second one is a rat rod wrecker that I saw at Billet Proof in Ocala last year. I took shots to build the thing. Notice the gear shifter and the sprockets and chain.....totally cool. http://s194.photobucket.com/albums/z83/Karmodeler2/Rollback/ http://s194.photobucket.com/albums/z83/Karmodeler2/Ratrod%20wrecker/ David

Should we also start "instituing" phonetics? or maybe spell check? Sometimes the advice someone is looking for can not be summed up in one sentence or two. Sorry. David

Will, I have read several post of yours and you seem to be hesitant to go "try" something new or different, and at times you seem to want an answer that will "cure" every problem we all face in this hobby. I have given you solid, 100% advice that works 100% of the time and it's up to you to go try it. We can't come to your home and do it for you. Several of the tips and advice that others have posted for you have come from them trying different things, failing, and trying something else until it works. You are going to have to teach yourself to airbrush. I did. Most of the people on this board probably taught themselves how to use it. My first time was not pretty, but I taught myself by practice. I have given you the advice of spoons and practicing on them. If you take that advice, you will find out if the clears you have chosen will work. There is only one kind of Future and it is available at most grocery stores. It's called Pledge w/Future and it's found in the floor wax isle with the brooms/mops and cleaners. You don't have to thin it and it shoots straight from the gun. I'm sure you have old car bodies laying around, so use one of them before you try it out on your pride and joy. You are going to make mistakes. I do all the time and have been doing this 35+ years. I always learn something with each model and I am always continually trying to improve the skills I have. There are 2 kinds of clears that WILL NOT HURT DECALS. One is Future. The other is Automotive urethanes like PPG Concept 2020. ALso, in the years of modeling, I have never had Model Master Clear Top Coat do any damage to decals what so ever. The reason there are many different clears available is they offer different applications. Remember, not all models have decals. I love the Tamiya clear and it offers one of the best finishes when buffed out. But one of the limitations with this one is it eats decals. So use it on a non decal model and don't use it when you are using decals. I offer all this to you because your post, to me, seem to read as if you are always upset with something in the modeling world (photo etch, clears). Maybe I am wrong, but I just want to let you know we all have problems in this hobby. Navigating around them is what makes you the modeler that you will become. GIving up or getting frustrated will only end in disaster. Let the hurdles be a challenge. I have put models aside because I could not figure something out, and it was 3 models later when it hit me on how to solve that problem. Don't let your frustration destroy your passion for building and for the hobby. If I have read your post incorrectly, I apologize. If you are one that gets easily frustrated or intimidated by trying new processes, I suggest you switch to gardening. David

Relax!!!!! I should have told you. I just bought this Porsche and when I moved to Florida, I thought they were kidding when they said that it gets really hot here. Boy was I mistaken!!! David

Will, as others have said, the word "hot" often refers to the chemical reaction between solvents, or decals or both. Lacquers tend to be a lot "hotter" because of the chemical makeup of the product and the real stuff (automotive lacquers/reducers/thinners) can be so hot that they actually will melt plastic. I have poured enamel bases where I have used a reducer so hot, it melted the cup it was in and spilled all over my workbench. Yes, they were the cheap cups I use for mixing resin and I get them at Wal mart....the ones you use in the bathroom or at the kitchen sink. I should have know better. I will tell you that I have had the Tamiya Clear (TS-13) eat my decals every time, regardless of how long I waited to clear them. If you take the clear out of the spray can and let it sit in a jar for about 45 minutes, you will get rid of some of the "hot" solvent in this paint. The best advice I can give you is to get a pack of white spoons and do a full spray out job on the back of the spoon (primer too), let it dry, put some decals that you don't plan on using onto the spoon, let dry and then spray your clear on top of the decals. This way, you do not ruin the model and you can do several spoons with different clears to see which clear(s) are compatible and won't ruin your model. Write on the inside of the spoon what you did and drill a hole in the handle and hang them up as reference. Enamels, for the most part, and urethanes are very docile and tend to go over decals easily. I will tell you that you will definitely need to wait the 24 hours if not longer. I was impatient one day and shot the clear on decals that had not dried and had MAJOR pin holes and fish eyes (separation of the paint that has the appearance of an oval look, and not a round pin hole) and it took twice as long to let that dry, sand, re clear and finish the model. Save yourself the heartache and wait it out. David

Tiger stripping is a common problem with metallics and there are some tips to reduce the effect. Thin your paint thinner than what you normally do for the last coat. Stay far away from the model (more than 6 inches) and spray in a circular motion, yes, circular...not back and forth. You risk a greater chance of stripping when you go back and forth like with a real car. Also, if you have access to full size automotive guns, the fan will be big enough for you to avoid the stripping effect. Thin mist coats in circular motion will help a lot. You can practice on the back of a "For Sale" sign you can get at home depot pretty cheap. David

Hey Tim, I am really enjoying seeing this car come to life. I think it was one of the most beautiful designs and it reminds me of a woman laying on her side. Similar to the XK 120's, the Healey's and the MGA/TR3. It has that beautiful dip at the "waist line". There is a paint that gives a realistic leather finish when you airbrush it. It has just the right sheen to look like leather/vinyl and it is not over done like one dripping in Armorall. Model Master Black Chrome Trim...thin it with lacquer thinner, very thin, and airbrush it on in layers. It will dry like vinyl. I have a '57 BMW 507 (model...don't I wish I had the real thing) and people think the top and seats are scale vinyl. It's the MM Black Chrome trim. I use it all the time. Also, if it's too "new" looking for you, then try Tamiya's Matt black. It too is close to rubber tire sheen and is about a notch below the MM BCT. Speaking of paint, let me offer you some tips, that you probably already know. Because the paint you are planning on using is metallic, your body work must be ABSOLUTELY perfect, as if you were doing a black car. These dark metallics (and most of the light ones) will show EVERY little speck or imperfection in the body. The metallics will lay in these flaws differently than the rest of the flat panel and it will draw your eye to it like a freight train going through your living room....you won't be able to NOT look!!! So, a tip I found that has helped a lot with metallics, is to do all your prep work and when you think you are ready for the base coat, shoot a thin coat of silver (I use Tamiya's silver leaf or Alclad's white aluminum because both dry really fast...the alclad the fastest) on your car. If you don't see any flaws, you are good to go with the green. I have found stuff this way that I could not see with my eyes or feel with my hands. I think it will shock you the first time you do this. I know it was a shock to me because I thought I was ready for base. Sand your flaws, fix them, prime and do one more silver in the area you fixed. It's up to you if you want to prime the whole thing one more time before the green coat. If I was shooting a light color, I would prime (white primer is all I use. It makes a world of different under EVERY color I use) one more time and then shoot the light color. That green is so dark, I don't think the silver will make that much of a difference in the final color. Hope this helps. I will not make it to the "East", But I have some friends that I have told to look out for this model. I look forward to the reports! David

Hey Tim the codes you need are as follows for the DBR1: Aston Martin OEM 1140 PPG's Deltron 2000 line (cheaper than the top grade, but same color) DBC 400525 Almond Green Yes, the picture is of the model I built. Thanks for the compliment. I had fun as I have always been a fan of the Astons and the Austins and basically anything British. I have 2 British cars and would have a 100 if my wife would let me. The brits built some beautiful cars in the 50-60s in my opinion, some think they are not so beautiful. Thats okay too!!! David and it's nice to know that I'm not the only one who gets the "look" when I am working on a model on the brand new "fill in new piece of furniture of your choice"

Hey Tim, I have the paint code for this car and got it from AM in England. They are VERY helpful if you do the following. You can go to their website (in England, not the U.S. one) and go to their tech support or the archive section. Email one of the techs and let them know that you are a serious model builder and not just some one bugging them cause you can. Let them know that you take your hobby very serious and that you like to build as close to the real thing as you can get. Ask them the questions you have and they will answer them. It will take about 2 days, but they will email you back and they are extremely helpful. They gave me the codes for this car (from '57) and the PPG equivialent. I don't have it with me but it's at home and I can get it for you by Sunday if you need it. You can PM me if you have questions. Here is the R&D Unique kit with some major modifications/added parts. This is the PPG two stage paint that I used from the paint code from AM of England. I have several codes for the early DB's and the Zagato's as well. PPG also has an Aston Martin specific book that is nothing but AM colors. It is loaded with so many shades of green, it will make your head spin. It was an awesome experience. David

I use Easy-off (Original Formula only, the others don't work well or as fast) and an old bean can or some type of soup can and put my parts in the can, spray the stuff in and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Normally takes about this long...some parts may require a little more time. The stuff does love to eat your skin if you submerse you hands in it, so I use the rubber gloves sold for dish washing for ladies (yes, I know most of you don't do dishes...duh!!!...we are guys!!!). And if you do dishes, I'm sure most of you don't wear the pretty yellow gloves. Or maybe you do and you are on some other forum we don't know about.......yet. David

Don't ask me to tell you how I decant. Last week in a thread http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=29246 I think I made enough people mad to start a small army!!!! Please enjoy! But most of the time, I decant. If it's a part that I just need to hit with some primer and know that I will sand it or it really doesn't matter, I will use the primer straight from the can. I even have better results with Tamiya primer that I have taken out of the can. It will lay down better with an airbrush and has a smoother, less course finish from an airbrush than the can. You will know this when you shoot it because out of the can, it dries flat, and out of my airbrush it dries shiny. I have taken all of the propellant out, true, but it lays down better out of my brush. Almost don't have to sand it sometimes because it is so smooth. Once again, just my technique. David

No problem, Bob. Remember......"baby" steps...."baby" steps......we can let him run just yet!!

Now Bob, don't go "pushing" him into the advance stages, allow him to progress at his own pace. We want to see progress. Not just the journey there. David

Not sure.....and wouldn't you know it: I forgot the question mark at the end of the thread title.......how crazy is that?

Hey, Thanks for the PM. Nice that you called me the "PROBLEM" and then blocked my PM back to you. I guess you were right when you said you finished school years ago indicating you are more mature than most. In case you missed it, here's my response that you blocked...and probably have this blocked too!!! And what sort of "PROBLEM" is that? Could you be more specific? Let's see, Calling people out for pieces of ###### (that I have seen in person, no less) that they claim to have scratch-built completely when I have seen the sink marks and the mold lines in their parts that they "scratch-built", is a "Problem" to you? Or is it something else? Maybe instead of inviting the people you want back so bad, you should go join them. I don't see a lot a support for you on this thread the way I see it for me....or does this constitute a "PROBLEM" for you too? David

Hey Dirk, Nice work. When you get to a decent level in model building, could you let me know so I could see some of your work in person? Looks like you are just barely past the "out of the box stock" phase. And before most of you blow a vein out of the side of your head, I'm teasing him. David

Plasticote-sandable-white primer only. I have had a problem with Dupli-color not curing to a hard finish on plastic so I quit using it. I had 3 other modeling friends (yeah, I only have 4 friends, good thing 3 of them are model builders) have the exact same problem. I was able to put my finger nail into the primer and leave a mark SEVEN days later. Plasicote did not do this. So my vote is Plasticote. How we doing on the vote? David

Hey Harry, I'll toss in some hints. Are you using flux (paste or liquid)? Sometimes the solder will form little balls and dance around on the metal and not melt. Part of this is solder and not a clean (sanded or wiped or pickled with acid) piece of metal. Part of it is heat. Also, try a solder with a lower melting point if you can. Another thing you can do is to "tin" both the parts. By this I mean, get a piece of glass, marble or something that the solder will not adhere to but will stay in a melted state before hardening. Sand both your parts so you have a course finish (doesn't have to be 80 grit, but sand it with 220 or 320...it's like primer...it likes to have a surface to cling to). Wipe some flux on both parts. Melt a ball of solder, and dip one part into the melted solder, lift it out, and let it dry. Do the same with the other. Then clamp or hold the parts in the way you want them mounted. Add heat, and the solder will melt and form a great bond for you. David

Hey Mark, I was just letting you know I was not coming from a confrontational standpoint. I have done that before on this board when I see others lying about stuff that I know is a lie and I tend to speak my mind.....basically call a spade a spade. I just did not want it to sound confrontational towards you and I never thought you would doubt me. That's why I wrote it that way in the first post. I thought it would sound okay to say " not arguing". David

Not sure if that's true Mark. I often will put a drop of water near where parts have been glued with KK and the capillary action will cause the water to go between the parts and the model and re-soften the dried glue back to a wet state and allow me to remove the part(s). I often will use KK because of this feature. I can always go back, months or years later, and put some water on it, wait, and then remove the part with no damage to the model. Not arguing, just pointing out how it works. Elmers glue (NOT the school glue, the original stuff) will do the same thing for a lot less money. And has the same strength. I had a friend that asked me to help him repair a model at a show, and I used Elmers and he was shocked how strong and well it held. David

Depends on what kind of primer you used. I use the following product, which can be re-used and is water soluble. I use the bread storage container from wall mart (I stand it on it's end) and the shelf for the bread you can pull it out each time and it pulls your model out of the fluid without you having to dip your hands in there. This stuff is great and it won't take off the sheen of the plastic like brake fluid can do. It might take a little time for the automotive stuff, but it will take it off. http://www.chameleonproductsonline.com/ David

If you, or someone you know, dies from poking a hole in a Tamiya can, I will pay for the funeral. Happy now?....probably not. And you can't regulate stupidity. GIve the government time, though. They have been pretty good at regulating everything. David

you have your way. I have mine. And the way I was saying "you didn't hear it from me" was sarcasm because I was denying it. (DUH) I don't want to be blamed for someone's incompetence. And for me, my method works for me. 10 years and counting.

Great tips and like Mark said, I use some techniques that I assume everyone does and don't think about mentioning it when talking about photoetch. When it comes to adding them to the model, I start with a clean (well, somewhat clean) work area. I lay out the parts, sometimes still in a small bag, until I need them. I take a piece of wide masking tape, sticky side down. I put a small drop of clear and spread it out so that it is a thin film. If I have to, I will add a drop of lacquer thinner to thin down the clear. I take a toothpick, lick it, then pick up my part with the toothpick. I wipe it through the film and then using the toothpick, move it over to the model and put it in it's place. If you don't want to use clear paint, Future works good too. If you are still uneasy with this, then use Elmer's or Krystal Klear and this way you can practice and remove it without messing up your model. If you need to, you can remove it, and use a moistened q-tip and the glue will turn back into glue from a dried state when you use water. When doing your body work, It's a good Idea to NOT completely remove the molded in scripts. It will give you good placement and spacing if you leave just a little bit of relief for a guide for you photo etch. I sanded the letters "E L D O R A D O" almost completely off, and the little relief I did leave was a helpful guide in letter placement for the photo etch. Also, if you don't have the letters or relief on the model to use as a guide, you can take a piece of masking tape, mark lines, perpendicular to the edge of the tape for spacing of letters, and place the tape on the car with the tape going left to right and the lines used for alignment running up and down. You can rest the bottom of the photo etch on the top edge of the tape and the lines will give you spacing. I hope this helps. David

I have used the one from Micro Scale and it has worked very well. Make sure you give it enough time to dry before you start taping near it (if you tape) and enough time to dry before you paint. I used tape, placed on top of the paint mask, to remove it. I had no problems with it pulling up the paint. It did a great job. David