Karmodeler2

I got to go to Bill Warner's collection (founder of the Amelia Island Concours...east coast version of Pebble Beach...only better) and he has one with the stainless top and it looks like it's been sanded more than polished. A kitchen sink is sanded/brushed stainless and pots and pans are polished. I don't think this car would look good with a polished top. The satin look on the Caddy looks the best. But I have yet to see a Delorean that looked good. David

These are the tires that came with my kit. It was the re-issue that was done back in the early 90's? I did not have the tires you talk about. Thanks everyone for the kind comments. It was a tough kit, but it doesn't look too bad. Too bad Tamyia doesn't make any of these old classics!!! David

I just wanted some color up there to hide the lack of black wash in the grille!!!

Hey Marcos, this is Model Master Classic Black thinned about 60% with Lacquer thinner. I shoot the first coat, wait 10-15 minutes and shoot the final coat. Then I hang the model upside down to keep trash out of it. I did NOT buff this car. This is how this paint lays down when shot like this. I have been using it for years and have had really good results with it. I'm not sure if you saw the runaway thread in the Rants section, but I posted a Jaquar X120 that I painted 23 times. I stripped it 22. I usually end up stripping about 2-3 times before I get a finish like this caddy. Fortunately, I got this one to lay down the first time. I do triple strain the paint just to get all the trash out. I use a fine mesh screen that you can get at a company called Small Parts. The link is below. David http://www.smallparts.com/b/16414371/ref=sp_iss_16414371

I could not agree more!!! Man, when I posted those pics, that is the first think I thought of....needs a black wash on the grill and some real lenses!!! Thanks Harry! David

I knew SOMEBODY had a camera in here, but I just wasn't sure who it was!!! Now I know!!! No, I mount them on a coat hanger and then hang them upside down, generally from the shower curtain rod...so you were close in your assumption! David

Thanks! The feeling is mutual after seeing you stuff in that runaway thread!!! That woody was VERY NICE!!!! David

Thanks. It was not an easy kit, especially with the multi-piece body. David

I did this after stealing the idea from Mark Jones (yes, he knows!!!) I saw a matchbox truck that he had done and was inspired to "steal". I removed all the trim from the cab, reshaped the profile to match the profile of the Caddy, chopped the top, modified the front and hood then cast it. The back part is the Caddy cut just forward of the door jamb. The trunk lid was extended then cast. The color is Ford Copper with Tamiya clear orange on top and the side color is Alclad white aluminum and copper mixed together. In the direct sunlight, with the naked eye, you can see a rose color that compliments the copper really well. Unfortunately, while it looks good with the eye, the color does not show up in the camera. Go figure. Enjoy, David

This is one that I did a few years ago. I had all the chrome re-done (Chrome Tech) and added some trim to the top of the rear fenders. The color is MM Classic Black and is not buffed. It comes out of the gun this way when thinned 60% with Lacquer thinner. I wish you could see the depth, but my camera wants to focus on the car and not the trees limbs that are 30 feet away vertically. I have to go read my manual cause I know it will let me set the depth of field, but I'm too lazy. It ended up having a pretty decent finish. I know the top is suppose to be stainless, but I like the look of the painted version (mine!!!) David

I agree with Harry. I went to your site and checked it out along with some of your other builds. This Ferrari appears to be very clean and the paint looks very smooth and even in the pics. I know pics don't necessarily tell the whole story, but it looks pretty good to me (better than 3rd)!! And I have taken Best Paint at GSL and other shows, so I have a small amount of experience, and to me this Ferrari looks very nice!! David

You guys have been moderating too much (thanks to a few) and not building enough. I know what the stuff is in that one photo because I have done what he is getting ready to do. Those are brass parts, that have been either scratch built or bought (I think the lanterns are bought), and he has the wire connecting them so that when they are plated, the wire will carry the current necessary to have the plating stick to the part. The parts look really nice, and I'm sure they will be nicer chromed!!! David

I have no idea how I posted inside my post, but go figure. Maybe I should spend some time on the board figuring it out!!!

[quote name='TimKustom' date='25 June 2010 - 06:30 PM' timestamp='1277505031' post='326223'. Here's an old build that I think I've topped a couple of times over.

I went to Hobby Lobby, convinced the lady I was buying lace (which they have several different "scales" per say) for a paint job and just did it. It turned out okay and I was pleased. I tried it on spoons first, then did a different lace on the boards.

Hey Pete, You probably know this, but when you vacuum form, if you will make the sides of the top solid all the way down to the base of the vacuum board so to speak, it will prevent the cut under. Make your part that you are copying "taller" than what you need so that the wrinkles and stuff happen, but they happen away from the part. good luck (as you need it at this point with all the bad luck with your car!!) David And I did not get on a list, but is it too late to get one? David

Congrats!!!! I think you are the winner for the longest run-on sentence on the board. A few "periods" in strategic places would help us follow your post. Thanks, David

Hey Steve, Man does this bring back memories. When we were traveling back in the late 60's, we stayed at the Ritz there in Laguna beach (back when we had money) and the car you have here is still there. I was able to stay there a few years ago when I was traveling up the west coast. If you get the chance, you ought to stay there and take your model. The car is in the basement and if you showed them your model, I'm sure they would let you see it. I have a friend that works there and he got me into the "special" room with all the cool stuff. It's in rough shape, but it still looks really cool. Might want to ride by there and take a look. I think you would enjoy it. David

I don't have the answer for you from my experience, but I think the best way to tell would be to get some plastic spoons, and do a full "build" in the spoon and then let it dry. Wipe ammonia on it to see what the effect is. Then dip it in ammonia and see what it does. I know I use Ammonia all the time to remove future and it works great. But generally its removing it from a clear piece or a machined piece where ammonia does not harm it. By a full "build" I mean, spray your spoon the same way as the model you have in question. Use primer-base-decals-clear or whatever the order is. This will give you an idea as to what will happen on the model with the ammonia without possibly destroying a complete build. Also, you can sand the future and re-clear it if the problem is just in the clear coat. David

I use the string method and it does take a little bit of time, but it cuts a thin line. If you have the "Flex-O-File" "U" shaped sanding tools (available from Micro Mark), you can tie your string to the two ends, similar to a wood coping saw. I actually used a coping saw once, with the blade removed, and the string in place of the blade. It frees up a hand so you don't have to hold the model between your legs. Also, to cut down on cost, instead of two kits, cut out your parts, and then use a strip of Evergreen of about .020 X .020 (Or more if you need it) and glue it flat to the edge of the door with Tenex7R or the like, let it sit for an hour or so and then you can file and sand it to fit the opening. I soak the joint in the glue so that it softens the door plastic and the evergreen plastic. The Evergreen will melt the quickest, so I focus the glue more on the door. As it softens, you can push your strip into the door and it will actually "squish" plastic out of the seam like glue from under a part when you press to hard. If you allow this to dry, you can sand it just like bondo and in most cases there is no seam, or one that will be covered in primer. You can do the same for the opening and file & sand it too. Much cheaper than cutting two kits. The gap does not have to be that tight because your primer-base-clear will add some to it. And you do need a gap. If your door is curved and you can't get your 20X20 strip to match the contour, stand your door on it's edge on a piece of Evergreen sheet and glue it the the sheet standing up. Then trim and file away what you don't want using the same method above. David

Thanks! Did you use to live in NC and were a part of the Triad city modelers? David

NIce work Steve as usual. Hope to see it in person. David

Hey Mike, try this place. You can order one inch or 1000 inches, they don't care. It's great stuff and they have all kinds of metals. http://www.smallparts.com/ It is who I use religiously. If for some reason they don't have what I need, then I go to this one. The owner is great to deal with and if you order the $15 book, he will take it off your first order. The book is worth its weight in gold. Has some cool stuff for us modelers. Small gears, tubing, actuators and the like. Cool stuff!! http://www.psmescale.com/ Good Luck. David

Mike, I polish all my machined items really really well, then I dip them in Future Floor wax (Pledge with Future) to seal them and keep them from oxidizing in the future. If you look at the pics below, everything that I machined in aluminum (that's 6061...the K&S stuff is not 6061 and is very gummy and nasty I have found) is dipped. This includes the front and rear rims, the caps on the breathers, gas tanks, mirrors, headlights, tail lights and more. Basically anything in aluminum. The stacks were polished, then I cut a mask to do the flames and bead blasted it the give it the rough finish. I then sprayed them with dullcote while the mask was still in place and then took the mask off. I did not seal the flame portion of the stack. I did not know how to. Hope this helps, David

Thanks Jim for making me more jealous. Great picture!!! I am on the road with my job and won't be home until the 24th. I will then do some more work and try to get some more pics up. The good thing about being away is it forces me to allow the paint to gas out before I cut and buff it. I took a shot of the completed dash, but it was terrible, so I did not post it. All of the shots are here on this website. I have a few more things to scratch and paint and then machine all the lights and I should be getting close to done. Thanks for showing me the pic. That was cool!! David http://s194.photobucket.com/albums/z83/Karmodeler2/Cunningham%20C4R/