Karmodeler2

Thanks Andy for the help! I appreciate it very much. David

Thanks Jim! I will go look for it. Thank you for the info. I was so amazed with it...it blew me away! David

Hey guys, I was on line looking at different shows of 1:1 trucks and saw an early 80"s (maybe even late 70"s) Freight shaker cabover and what drew my attention so fast was the fact that it was not painted, but the guy had spend countless hours polishing the body. The depth of shine was unbelievable--to the point of chrome-- and the the color on the frame rails (and maybe just the top of the cab/sleeper) was a pretty blue. He had a real nice custom rack for the two cleaners in the middle and the stacks on the outside of the rack. The doors opened up in a weird type, slide out and aft type door hinge. It was a very unique truck. The problem is , I can't find the pics or remember where I saw them. I have searched my history but to no avail. Is there anyone that has seen these pics or has pics of this truck. You could use the AMT kit and it would be about the correct year. Thanks for any help. David

Hey Simon, I know you might not have access to a PPG store, but they have an Aston Martin book with alot of the greens in there. I have several Aston Martin greens, but not the particular one you are looking for. I did, however, email Aston Martin directly ( I found their website and I think I emailed either the research dept. or just customer service or tech dept....one of them, well about 3 days later they sent me the paint code for the color I was looking for--the Aston Martin DBR1 that you saw in Salt Lake). They were very helpful. You may also try an Aston Martin club website and I'm sure you can get a paint code from someone. From that code you can have other paint brands mixed up by a cross reference guide at the store. Let me know if this helps! David

Andy, you hit it on the head. It drives me crazy (no pun intended) when I am traveling south, two lanes this direction, and I'm in moderate traffic. Someone traveling North wants to turn left across our lanes into a shopping center. One of the south bound lanes is stopped while the other is still moving. LEFT TURN YIELDS. The south bound lanes have the right of way. This is the law, not something you can give away to "help the individual" across those lanes. When you motion for them to cross those lanes, you are giving away a right of way THAT YOU DO NOT OWN, nor have the right to give away. The law states that "Left turn yields" . You can't change the law. If they have to sit there for an hour, then so be it, but they yield, not you. Also, on parking, if you back INTO your parking spot, you are moving while other cars are stationary. If you back OUT OF your parking spot, you are moving while other cars are moving. (I'm referring to the cars parked next to you and the ones going up and down the isles.) Over 90% of parking lot accidents occur while backing OUT OF a parking spot. (which might mean that 10% happen when you back in...huh?) David

There's nothing wrong with being inspired & influenced by other builder that do things that impress you or that you want to attempt. That's a healthy way of increasing one's skills in & enjoyment of the hobby. When you do attempt something like that however, keep in mind that the person who inspired you went through the same type of learning curve when he first attempted the technique as you experience. What you're seeing in most cases is the finished result of something they have been doing over time, not always the first time they attempted it. I could not agree with him more!!!! I have nine, yes NINE sets of running boards for the truck you see by my name, because it took eight tries of doing it wrong before I got it right. Stainless is THE most unforgiving medium I have ever used. I guess real glass would be a close second!! David

Yeah Bob, White metal scares me too, but I can't figure out why, since I use brass, copper, stainless and bronze. You would think I would crave white metal (not white castle!!!) I have cast parts in white metal and it was kind of cool...but could not get the crispness I get with resin. The kit will require some work...it's not for the faint of heart. David

Thanks George! I hope that it will inspire you......that's what has happend to me....I see other's work, I'm amazed and inspired, and say to myself "I can do that too!!!". Then I spend weeks in therapy!!!(LOL) And more weeks at the table!!! Unfortunately, the Austin Healey is still in "box" form and not put together. Hope to see you in Toledo! David

Hey Gary (and Bob too, ) they do make a really nice (very expensive) kit of the Austin Healey and actually have the 100, 100-6, 3000 MK I, MKII & MK III. I have the MK III (KAR 2424...is the kit #) and I will bring it to ATL (and Toledo if Gary doesn't make it to ATL)in Nov for you guys to look over if you want. The kits are white metal and from K & R out of England. They are 1/24.

Although I loved the example of the man whose career ended when the platform collapsed, I saw this one in an email recently and thought I would share it. It offered a great definition to PC as well. Specifically, there is an annual contest at Texas A&M University calling for the most appropriate definition of a contemporary term. This year's term was "Political Correctness." The winner wrote: "Political correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

I carried these things when I was a 141 driver in the AF and they are heavy (and cool, if you talk the drivers in to letting you inside to make phone calls.....I've only heard about it....not seen it!)...so I am going with real.....remember, those are not "normal" tires you buy at Tire Kingdom.

Give Dale a call at 610 779 1462. He owns LMKC and he does the plating at his house (he does not send it out like Chrome Tech, so you don't have lost parts!!). Also you resin parts need to be on a separate tree than the plastic ones because it's a different process. He can give you all the details. He might even spell his name Del, now that I think about it. I have used him and was pleased with the work. He will send you a card saying he has received your parts and what day you can expect them back. Very efficient. David

Hey Bob, I guess I was not reading correctly, but you are right. I thought he was using the traditional HOK and not something else. I,too, have used Kustom Kolor and had some weird things happen, and it was upsetting, since I really loved the color. I shot it out of my AB and it turned into little strings that floated all over the model room...it was actually drying before it hit the model. I used lacquer thinner and it laid down fine. I do want to add to Brian's comments about lacquer thinner. He's right about using it in everything. I use it in all paints except water base ones, but don't tell anyone. And I use the cheap stuff. I also use it with the Model Master(MM) line from testors. I get a gallon of it and it's cheaper per volume than that little black $10 can of airbrush thinner they sell for their MM paints. It works great. (And that little can is a mix of mineral spirits and lacquer thinner..but don't tell anyone) I keep my lacquer thinner in a squeeze bottle (just like ketchup or mustard) next to my desk and when I'm ready to paint, I put paint in my air brush cup, put in a little lacquer thinner, and then cover the end of the gun with my finger and push down and pull back to force air in backwards in the cup and mix the thinner and paint. Do this VERY carefully the first time so you don't end up with a face full of paint!!! (only works with a double action..and maybe only Paasche) David

okay, you live in the NORTH...sorry....I was thinking of someone else. You might want the fast reducer, and not the slow. Sorry!! David

Hey Jody, Because you are using HOK, I will HIGHLY suggest you stay with their brand of reducer. It is RU-312. I recommend this one because like you, I live in the south and this will be the best one for you with the humidity. Because HOK is so unique, if you mix other brands, you could have disastrous results. I would recommend that you also pick up their book which shows numerous base coats and how they affect the final finish...it is worth it's weight in gold!! And they have an 80 page tech manual that covers EVERY base, primer, clear, color, candy, reducer that they carry and how to use their products effectively. IT is FREE...yes, FREE and I know that Coast airbrush has them. IF you buy the $50 book with all the colors, they can ship both to you at the same time. The book may sound expensive at first (and also later) but it is a very nice, hard bound 3 ring binder with the HOK Bird carved into the cover...it is really nice. And what I did, since it was a 3 ring binder, I put all my PPG sheets (they are free at car shows and they have the holes already for your notebook) and Dupont sheets (same) in their and now I have a really nice paint book with about every color you can imagine. One thing that you will definitely want is the free tech manual. I use it all the time because I'm not about to memorize what products go with what bases and primers and it offers priceless info on how to paint (mix ratios, psi, flash, recoat, cut & buff) in general and the do's and don'ts. It has been most helpful and my modeling buddies have it and they feel the same way. Good luck. That site is: http://www.coastairbrush.com/categorypage.html David

So, is today your last day to build models? Are you giving it up or is there tomorrow? Just kidding you....relax!! I just saw your post (after a long day) and wanted to throw my 2 Cents in....I have seen the same color show up as different shades because of the primer color and I have had the best results with white than any other color. But seeing as how you were in a hurry, I thought I would offer you a tip that would prevent any haste movements. Go to the dollar store (or Wal mart, the $2 store) and grab a bag of 100 white plastic spoons. On the inside of the spoon, where you would normally put your Capt'n Crunch, write what mix of paint and primer you used while on the back of the spoon spray your test pattern. The curve of the spoon will give you an idea as to how the color will look on the model (instead of a flat spray out sheet) and if you ever have to repair a model, you will have a record as to the mix and how you did it. If you drill a hole in the handle of the spoon, you can hang it up, color side out, and have your own "paint chip" rack, and when you want a particular color, you look at your spoons, grab the one you like, and turn it over and read how you mixed that color. This might help you in the future. And when you just can't get the answer you want, grab 3 spoons, shoot one grey, one white, one black primer, then your gold on all three. That would be much quicker than 19 minutes of wait!! David

Justin, I served 8 years in the S.C. Air National Guard as an Air Traffic Controller (made it to Staff Sgt...testing for Tech when I got my pilot slot) and crossed over to Officer to fly jets for 8 years in the Air Force Reserves...made it to Captain before I got out over Anthrax. The only thing that has been consistent in my life for 34 years has been model building and I built everywhere except UPT (undergraduate pilot training) because the training was so intense you didn't have time to build. I do remember spraying a camo paint job on a model of a c-141 with my airbrush in the officer barracks at Altus while I was in 141 school. The maid was NOT happy with me...to say the least. Still have that model after 17 years! One of the FEW (4) airplane models I built. Airplane builders are a weird bunch....I was scared I would become one of them, so I stopped and did the right thing...I stayed with cars!!! David ps. Thanks for your service. I know freedom is not free....I've been to 3rd world countries....and they suck!

Hey Caine, What you can do is make a plastic template out of .0020 or .0030 plastic, then hold this down on your masking tape that you have put sticky side down on top of your cutting surface. Cut your curve, then flip the template to get the mask for the other side (a mirror image). You can tape two razor blades together (I use the small OLFA snap off brand from Japan that have 13 blades a piece on them) and you can add plastic shims between the blades to the desired thickness, and you can create your own thin tape for any thickness that you need. You can also cut curves with them taped together and create your own curved pin striping cutting painted decal paper. (the best paints for decal paper are the Model Master series that are enamel...the tend to flex a little. The Tamiya sprays tend to crack and peel off when you wet the decal paper...they are a modified lacquer and are more brittle).Hope this helps. David

To replicate that I used medical tape as found at the local pharmacy. I agree with Scott. I was in the hospital visiting a friend and happened to see a roll of this tape on a table. I picked it up and was admiring it because of it's weave, and the nurse walked in and said "You want that, you can have it". It was what she called "I.V. tape". I did not know you could get it at the pharmacy. But it has a great weave pattern to it for 1/24 scale seatbelts. A roll will last you a LONG time. And I painted mine before I cut it, but had to go back and get rid of the white edge. It would make sense to paint it afterwards. David

I changed the setting on my camera and it appears that the file is too big to upload. You can pick them up at my site below. They are the #'s 9 and 10 if you count pics, or image # 336 and # 337 that I am talking about. I put them all up so you can look. Let me know if you need more. David http://s194.photobucket.com/albums/z83/Karmodeler2/Rollback/

"In the last two photos"....I guess it would help if I POSTED the last two photos. Sorry!!!

Sorry Nicholas, you probably wanted the complete truck. Here it is. The last two photos, if you look close at the chrome spot light mounted on top of the light bar, you will see it is horizontal in one and tilted in the other. This whole assembly, because it is attached to the aft portion of the frame that tilts down when the bed is raised, tilts with the raising of the bed. You might be able to see what I'm talking about. Maybe not. This is when the wheel lift pin pivots inside those two tabs I mentioned earlier. You can see those tabs in the last two photos and maybe see what I'm talking about. Good Luck. David

Hey Nicholas, Here are some shots of mine. I can email you all the shots if you want them. I would encourage you to find a real one and have the guy show you how it works. The reason is, what I'm about to explain might not make sense until you see it in person. In order for the wheel lift to work and be attached to the truck, it has to pivot with the bed when the bed is raised and moved aft. You can not use the wheel lift at the same time as the bed (you could, but you'll end up damaging some equipment). You use the bed first, and when done, extend the wheel lift. This pivot point I'm talking about is in the first two photos. You will see two horizontal tabs with elongated holes in them mounted on opposite sides of the wheel lift. This allows the pin that holds the wheel lift to pivot along the top to wheel lift inside these tabs while the light bar and steps pivot with the bed when it is raised. It was complicated for me to understand while the guy was telling me, then when I saw it, I thought it was a neat piece of engineering. The wheel lift will be attached to the frame (just aft of the axle) on a pivot pin and then the two tabs I mentioned will have a pin pass through them at the same time passing through the step/lightbar assembly. You can see the series of vertical holes in the third photo and this allows the lift to be locked in the up position when not used, and in a lower one when towing a car. The last two show the wheel lift where it attaches to the frame. I don't think I could have built this without seeing a real one first. If you need some more help, let me know. David 864 979 1844