John Clutch

This is cool on so many levels. Nice job

You are correct sir. I'm not too familiar with mopar rear axles, and at a glance, it look like a Ford 9". Thank you.

The front end and doors are seperated. The trunk will be opened later. Boxing the rocker panels, wheel tubs and rear door jams is next. The driver side of the body is between .080 to .090 thick and the passenger side is between .060 to .070. I was surprised to see that.

Lookin great! And I like how you organnized the parts for paint!

Beautiful build so far!

I'm planning on making all that. Again, it will not be stock appearing, the car will have a smoother, more modern look to it, with the hide away head light look, but it will actually be all grill for the radiator and intercoolers, with the "headlights" being located where the fog lights are, being slightly bigger than what the fog lights are. The round tail lights will be bigger as well. I'll make a drawing of it when I'm at work during the week to you guys a better idea of it.

Starting with the MPC General Lee kit, the plans call for...... Twin 76mm turbo hemi with 11" block deck height, low profile sheet metal intake, twin injectors, crank trigger, 4 stage dry sump, twin air to water intercoolers up front, sheetmetal diaper underneath. ATI Superglide4, ladder bar suspension, rearend not determined yet. I was disappointed that the kit has a Ford 9", was hoping for a Dana 60. Not sure what tire/rim combination yet. I'm planning on making the rims but whatever tires look best and if I can't find something I like, then I'll turn some tires on the lathe also. Adjustable front spoiler molded into the fenders as one piece, I havent decided whether to keep the hood seperate or not yet. A smooth modern hued 1968 nose/tail panels. I always felt that the rear 68 tail lights were too small. The front fender wheel opening will be returned to stock. I'm not going to try and make the firewall or door jams appear to be stock, I'm going after it as if I had the body skin and a pile of sheet metal and tubing. Maybe even suicide door the car. I wanna thank you all for inspiring me to build. Comments and suggestions are always welcomed, even if I don't ask for them. Clutch

1/12 Foose Camaro A bunch of styrene stock 24"x36" hobbico cutting mat

Well there is one issue I have with NHRA and that's the ban on lock up converters. They say it's a performance advantage, yet it acts as a clutch and clutch cars are legal. The advantage is a traditional converter multiples the torque at the line, and has a certain amount of slippage for the entire pass. A lock up converteracts the exact same way, but at whatever RPM or gear you choose, the converter can be locked up 1 to 1, just like how a clutch car works. The technology isn't too expensive so I can't see why the NHRA is holding that back. The grandstands empty out when PS and PSM start staging is because the majority are there to see the fuel classes. And a good part of them as not hardcore drag racers. The biggest fields today is PS and PSM, especially in the northeast. We love our Pro Stocks just like the lower east coast states like their NASCAR. The dream of mine is if I had unlimited amount of funds, I would go Pro Stock racing for the rest of my life. I might want to strap into a fuel car to experience that, but my racing is in the pits and under the car. I'm not saying fuel cars are not easy to tune, but fuel cars are NEVER searching for power no matter what altitude they ran at. Finding that 10 hp is where it's at for me.

You would rather see a 5 second race and I would like to see cars run faster than ever before. And the only time you ever see the turn out at a national event start to dwindle, is after the NHRA forces a ruling to slow the class down. And everytime they do they take a decade of research and development with it. Who wants to see cars running slower now than 10 years ago? No one. The racers don't want it, the crowd doesn't want it and the sponsors don't want it. Some rule changes are required for the safety of the driver and spectators and I'm all for that. You say turn down the cars and see some shifting, yet the only class that they shift in, you want to eliminate. Give it some time, you'll have your 5 second race in Pro Stock before you know it. 6.40s @ over 210mph in Pro Stock right now. At 2350lb minimums, that's approx. 1700hp, from a naturally aspirated 500ci motor. That's over 3 hp per cube!!!! How can that not be exciting? And just to show you how impressive that is, IHRA Pro Stocks are UNLIMITED cubic inch and the record is 6.20s. They have motors almost 1000 cubes, yet they can only mustered 2 tenths quicker than NHRA.

Modernization? How? What's keeping them back? They already make more power than they could handle, the aero packages are advanced as much of the times and the performance is almost too much for the human body to handle. Look at Kenny Bernstein .....his eye balls were coming out of his head because of the G forces.

Looks fantastic. If you displayed the car differently, I would have had to look pretty deep to determine if it was 1:1 or not. I'm very impressed.

I would be against it personally. Im friends with some of the guys that help pioneer the class in the 1980s, so my opinion is very bias. Of course it takes money to win races, and it takes talent to tune, but adding another class like Pro Mod, which really has no limitations on power, would bore me to death. In all the years Ive been heading to Englishtown, I havent sat in the bleachers to watch the fuel classes since I was a kid in the 80s. (Don Garlit back flipped his T/FD on my birthday,July 12th, 1986 ) For me, making any sort of horsepower on a naturally aspirated engine is far superior than getting the right pulley on a blower.

1400 mile 41 year old wagon??? How is that even possible? Unless this vehicle was shipped with the USPS and it was lost for all these years, Im not buying it.

That looks good too! The Charger wheelwells are so large, they need a big tire. Im not a fan of the 20" and 22" rims, they start to look odd because there is no side walls on the tires. Im leaning towards the 17" front/18" rear myself.

Very cool !

Im planning on building a 1/16 Charger using the MPC General Lee kit. It will be a "street car" Using Mickey Thompson tires, I came up with a few profiles, with a 3" front spoiler clearance/4" body clearance with a bit of rake to it. If you would like to see what a certain combination would look like, feel free to comment here and Ill post it. Thanks

Im looking forward to this build!

Nice build! Cant go wrong with a Malibu

All great suggestions!!! I was looking at the 1/16 charger body, taking measurements and cleaning up edges. I noticed that the windshield trim is very faint and was concerned about foiling it. Taping and scribing the trim like suggested will be part of my preparation now. Thank you very much!

I've cut strips of BMF the full length of the sheet with nary a snag! Key is, a fresh, BRAND NEW #11 blade (which BTW is exactly what Bare Metal Foil Company has always strongly recommended!) Art I'm sure of it, but how many strips can you cut? It's always that 1/8" more that you push your tool than what it can handle and BAM! You wish you never pushed it lol

When I get to the point of my first foil job, I would want to know how long of a cut I can make with a hobby knife blade before it starts pulling instead of cutting.

Try to wrap something other than the models, maybe a plastic bottle threads? This way, you're not worried about scratching the paint. I think knife pressure is the learning curve you need to master. Too much pressure and you'll have a gouge, too light and the foil edge might not cut, then you'll have to try cutting it a second time.

Yes. I have calipers that read .001 and .0001, and there are digital calipers that read inch and millimeter. Very handy item. I have always converted and it's second nature to me. But I have never seen a chart listing for slicks of any scale yet, but if I do, I'll pass it on.

To convert inches to millimeters, divide by .03937 1.00" / .03937 = 25.40mm To convert inches to centimeters, divide by .3937 1.00" / .3937 = 2.54cm A quick fraction to decimal conversion. 1/8" = .125" = 3.17mm 1/4" = .250" = 6.34mm 3/8" = .375" = 9.52mm 1/2" = .500" = 12.70mm 5/8" = .625" = 15.87mm 3/4" = .750" = 19.05mm 7/8" = .875" = 22.22mm 1" = 1.000" = 25.40mm Most American automotive components cover those dimensions. Fuel line, tire sizes, exhaust tubing, etc...unless it's close internal engine components